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So I am currently out of the country on an all expenses paid trip to Afghanistan.
My wife told be that the 4x4 on the F350 would not engage. I have manual hubs and they were in the locked position. I have the dash mounted ESOF 4x4 switch...not the manual floor lever.
She took it to a shop and they told her it was the seals in the front axle that are causing the problem. I have no idea how with manual hubs the seals in the front axles would be a the problem with the 4x4 engaging?
Please let me know if I am off base here. They quoted her $1150 to repair and I just dont get it?
IDK much about the Ford 4x4 front hubs, all ones I maintain have 4x2 only.... but it somehow don't sound right to me. One option to try would be to disconnect the battery for 15-20 mins to reset all PCMs. Most vehicles have modules for everything and it wouldn't surprise me to find some sort of Transfer Case Control Module.
Also, any lights on in dash? Check engine light perhaps? If so, she can go to local parts store and retrieve codes for free, or heck, go do so anyway. Sometimes there can be codes stored or pending and not make the Check Engine light illuminate. Be sure to go read codes BEFORE disconnecting battery, as it will erase any codes stored.
So I am currently out of the country on an all expenses paid trip to Afghanistan.
My wife told be that the 4x4 on the F350 would not engage. I have manual hubs and they were in the locked position. I have the dash mounted ESOF 4x4 switch...not the manual floor lever.
She took it to a shop and they told her it was the seals in the front axle that are causing the problem. I have no idea how with manual hubs the seals in the front axles would be a the problem with the 4x4 engaging?
Please let me know if I am off base here. They quoted her $1150 to repair and I just dont get it?
Thanks
Thad
Thanks For Your Service.
Sounds like someone is trying to take advantage of a lady with that $1150 est.
I would try a different shop.
You could also check with North Dakota Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
And see if someone knows a GOOD HONEST shop that she can go to.
If you were closer I would not have a problem taking a look. I bet you can find
some better place to look at it.
Have her do this. (Yes she may get dirty)
Turn the hub selector to lock.
Roll truck a few feet.
Reach under the truck to the front drive shaft and try to turn it.
If the shaft does not turn with mild pressure then the hubs are locked.
The next test is the motor for the transfer case.
She will want to sit in some place quiet and let all the sounds
from the key on but not running get quiet. with door open have
someone turn the switch from 2H to 4H. She should hear the motor
at the transfer case turn. If no sound then the fuses need to be checked first.
I don't have the numbers for you year handy. Someone will post them.
Thanks for the suggestions. She won't be able to do that since it's super cold (temps in the -20F range) and snowy. I was mostly hoping for a unanimous, "that guy is wrong" mentality.
I will be home soon enough but was hoping to have this fixed prior to my return.
I told her to wait to give the shop the go ahead until I could talk to her and the shop.
I trust the shop but do not think they even looked at the truck prior to giving the estimate since most vacuum operated hubs fail in these trucks as mine already did...which is why I have manual hubs. Just sucks I cant be there to fix it!
Its not the seals. I is either the shift motor, gem module or a mechanical issue in the T case. Not front axle seals. That is a very common issue in the ESOF factory hubs.
Its not the seals. I is either the shift motor, gem module or a mechanical issue in the T case. Not front axle seals. That is a very common issue in the ESOF factory hubs.
Thanks! I just wanted to be certain that I am not missing something.
I would be happy to take a look at it and give you a my thoughts. Could hook in Torque Pro and pull codes and crawl underneath. I have a heated garage...
We live over in Lakewood. PM me if you want contact info...
If the hubs are in the lock position. And the esof switch is in 4x4 and nothing happens. I would first check all fuses to do with it. Then check the connection in the transfercase shifter motor. If the hubs are in auto and the switch is in 4x4. I would put money on the vacuum solinoid that controls it. Either way 1200 to replace hubs or just seals is outrageous. A new hub costs $200 off amazon. And it is really a 2hr job if you know what your doing.
I would be happy to take a look at it and give you a my thoughts. Could hook in Torque Pro and pull codes and crawl underneath. I have a heated garage...
We live over in Lakewood. PM me if you want contact info...
Chris
I would if I was home. Pretty sure the truck is at the shop my wife got the quote from.
If the hubs are in the lock position. And the esof switch is in 4x4 and nothing happens. I would first check all fuses to do with it. Then check the connection in the transfercase shifter motor. If the hubs are in auto and the switch is in 4x4. I would put money on the vacuum solinoid that controls it. Either way 1200 to replace hubs or just seals is outrageous. A new hub costs $200 off amazon. And it is really a 2hr job if you know what your doing.
I told my wife to check the fuses but the "it's cold factor" is winning. She looked in the fuse box but gave up when none appeared to be blown...I tried to explain to check them but it was a loosing battle. I will give the above mentioned items a look when I get home.
Best case the shop realizes (after I call them on Monday) that its not the hubs since that issue was dealt with previously.
If the hubs are in the lock position. And the esof switch is in 4x4 and nothing happens. I would first check all fuses to do with it. Then check the connection in the transfercase shifter motor. If the hubs are in auto and the switch is in 4x4. I would put money on the vacuum solinoid that controls it. Either way 1200 to replace hubs or just seals is outrageous. A new hub costs $200 off amazon. And it is really a 2hr job if you know what your doing.
FYI,
I have manual hubs. The stock ones are long gone....so it's not anything to do with vacuum.
Correct. And the only thing the seals do is for the vacuum and in your case doesnt matter. The only other seal is the dust seal on the axle which does nothing really other than exactly that, keeps dust and dirt out of the housing. I would say the shop does not know you have manual hubs. Thats why they said it was the seal. She does have both of them in the lock position? Does the 4x4 light come on when she turns it on? If both of the hubs are locked in and the light comes on, try switching to on hi and then back to 2wd a few times. The lever may be froze up a bit under those temps.
The service manager is telling me that the hubs have to be locked for the transfer case to engage. He is saying that the hubs aren't staying locked. My wife said she was able to lock the hubs, so I am not sure what is going on. I am waiting to be able to talk to the mechanic directly about this issue. Right now I am getting nowhere and just want to tell them to leave my truck alone!
The service manager is telling me that the hubs have to be locked for the transfer case to engage. He is saying that the hubs aren't staying locked. My wife said she was able to lock the hubs, so I am not sure what is going on. I am waiting to be able to talk to the mechanic directly about this issue. Right now I am getting nowhere and just want to tell them to leave my truck alone!
Thoughts?
Sounds as if he is an idiot. Transfer case will lock in without the hubs being locked in.
Sounds as if he is an idiot. Transfer case will lock in without the hubs being locked in.
^this.
i had Warn premiums on my previous SD that my axle shaft slowly destructed (needle bearing in the knuckle was junk). near the end of the one side's life i had to disassemble the locking hub and reassemble it to get it to lock.. could be one of your hubs isn't locking for one reason or another. i'd have the shop reach into the knuckle and see if they can turn the axleshafts by hand while in 2wd with the hubs in the lock position.. if so, something isn't locking. that's how i get my hubs to fully lock if i didn't proactively lock them before i'm stuck, haha.