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I am in Asheville, NC; are you close by?? I will take a look at it for gas and a sandwich. I am here until Saturday and then will be on a pipeline in Louisiana until mid-Feb.
I am in Asheville, NC; are you close by?? I will take a look at it for gas and a sandwich. I am here until Saturday and then will be on a pipeline in Louisiana until mid-Feb.
Super kind Becky. This week is terrible for me, but again, very kind of you. I'm in Greensboro, the truck's out of state so is owe you more than a sandwich, haha. Good luck with the pipeline. I may message you next year if I'm still spinning wheels and you don't mind.
Sorry, can't help in NC. You might possibly find an old timer with an independent shop in the area where the truck is. If you go anywhere and they call their mechanics technicians keep going
My exact concern, haha. "Local experts" and all...
Super kind Becky. This week is terrible for me, but again, very kind of you. I'm in Greensboro, the truck's out of state so is owe you more than a sandwich, haha. Good luck with the pipeline. I may message you next year if I'm still spinning wheels and you don't mind.
No Problem,
Should be home from mid-Feb. to late March before heading for the Dakotas on another project. If it works out I would gladly lend a hand. Where is the truck? I pass through Greensboro several times a year to visit my Dad in central Virginia. Not an expert on what is "factory correct", but have worked on a lot of 60s and early 70s FORD products so can give you a good assessment as to $$$ to make it a safe and enjoyable driver.
Should be home from mid-Feb. to late March before heading for the Dakotas on another project. If it works out I would gladly lend a hand. Where is the truck? I pass through Greensboro several times a year to visit my Dad in central Virginia. Not an expert on what is "factory correct", but have worked on a lot of 60s and early 70s FORD products so can give you a good assessment as to $$$ to make it a safe and enjoyable driver.
Sc. I'm not looking for anything to show, so "correct" (sorry to the pros) is not necessarily a goal yet. I just dig old Fords and want it to drive safely and not have hidden rust everywhere. I also seem to have a soft spot for stake-beds. Ever work on those?
I travel to SC from time to time as well. Finishing up a PhD through Clemson University; research site is Congaree NP just outside of Columbia; major prof and lab work out at the coastal institute in Georgetown. Never really worked on the "stake-beds", but doubt that is the part that will cost you the most. Rust is probably the top $$$ concern (cab mounts, radiator core support, lower door pillars, floor pan, rocker panels, cab corners, etc.); second drivetrain (the 6 cyl is a lot cheaper than the FE V8)..tranny and rear is flexible and available from yards; 'bling' like emblems and trim are expensive, but there are several western folks on this site that can beat the price of repops. If you want to modernize to power brakes and steering then a donor truck from 73-79 for about 500.00 will get you started with another 500.00 or so to make all right.
I travel to SC from time to time as well. Finishing up a PhD through Clemson University; research site is Congaree NP just outside of Columbia; major prof and lab work out at the coastal institute in Georgetown. Never really worked on the "stake-beds", but doubt that is the part that will cost you the most. Rust is probably the top $$$ concern (cab mounts, radiator core support, lower door pillars, floor pan, rocker panels, cab corners, etc.); second drivetrain (the 6 cyl is a lot cheaper than the FE V8)..tranny and rear is flexible and available from yards; 'bling' like emblems and trim are expensive, but there are several western folks on this site that can beat the price of repops. If you want to modernize to power brakes and steering then a donor truck from 73-79 for about 500.00 will get you started with another 500.00 or so to make all right.
Thanks again for the info. We should stay in touch. I apparently lack the "power" to message people (it's likely obvious I'm new to the site), but I really appreciate the info. The rust areas seem right from what my slick model research says. I've also heard the 6 is easier (at least on gas), but would rather a manual. Brake upgrades are very likely. The bed will be the fun part for me; love carpentry. Bottom line is I'm not big on settling on a rig until I own it, but looking is fun. Thanks again and have a fun trip.
I don't see a shift indicator on the column or a floor cutout for a 4 speed. I think the truck is an original 3 speed column shift. If an auto was installed they probably removed the clutch pedal since it was not needed.
You didn't mention what the asking price is.
I wouldn't pay more than $1,500.
This truck looks like it needs everything and its not cheap.
Do you have the tools, skills, and a place to work on this type of project?
I think you can find a better truck for a starter.
I'd suggest going to my little corner of the web and reading "What is my truck worth?". It will give you most of the key things to look for. Link: Ford
Keep in mind one thing: you have the advantage of looking for a type of truck almost nobody is interested in! Stake body trucks are generally not appealing to most hot rodders and restorers because they aren't as 'sexy' as sheet metal beds. Stake body trucks were meant to 'work', not just look pretty. But, as a result, they frequently got used really hard.
148 originally made means there are probably 3 total left. So you're looking for a possible unicorn. Most of these were sold as cab and chassis and then had a stake body installed by whatever brand was preferred by the dealer or buyer. Having a 'factory' one really wouldn't be that important, IMO. The older trucks always had 'FORD' stamped in the rear sill (facing following traffic); I don't know if that was still the case with 1965 models. You could always try to locate a bed from an older 1950s truck and use it, if such things matter to you.
Thanks everyone. This has certainly been educational. The link that Garbz posted shows many more f250 stake-beds being made. The likely best news is that I'm really interested in almost any year from '58 to '69 and f-100 to f-250... Although I'm obviously partial to slicks. It seems harder to find a stake-bed so since that one runs it was a bonus. They're asking $5k for it, which seemed to high, but looks like it's WAY high. I'll find one eventually.
Yeah, the no clutch was obvious. I'm just apparently slow, but you wouldn't need an aftermarket stick for an automatic, right? If the steering column shifter broke I'd get it, but how does the stick shift with no clutch? (Sorry if I'm an idiot, but. ..)
Just because it's a floor shifter doesn't mean it's manual. Don't know whether it's factory or conversion, but I've seen auto floor shifters. Is this truck seriously $5000???