Help! Clutch won't release?
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Help! Clutch won't release?
Good morning guys,
Went out to the truck this morning to go get a load of stone for my folks. Get it, start it up and no issue. Go to put it in gear and it won't go. Clutch pedal is very soft. Check the master cylinder, it's full. Check the movement at the clutch arm, probably about 1/2-3/4 inch when the clutch pedal is just about to the floor.
What should I be checking? I'm not sure if it's a master, slave, or clutch issue.
Thanks
Jason
Went out to the truck this morning to go get a load of stone for my folks. Get it, start it up and no issue. Go to put it in gear and it won't go. Clutch pedal is very soft. Check the master cylinder, it's full. Check the movement at the clutch arm, probably about 1/2-3/4 inch when the clutch pedal is just about to the floor.
What should I be checking? I'm not sure if it's a master, slave, or clutch issue.
Thanks
Jason
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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It will not go in gear. It would probably grind if I pushed it far enough. Transfer case is still in 2hi.
I checked all the linkages and connections. They clutch rod turns out to be a but rigged but everything was functioning and connected.
Laying under the truck and moving the arm by hand I noticed the slave cylinder was getting a bit damp. After sitting a little more it was getting more wet. Maybe there is air getting in the system since fluid appears to be getting out now. I have a spare but the bleeder is stripped so I guess I'll get a new one and start there
I checked all the linkages and connections. They clutch rod turns out to be a but rigged but everything was functioning and connected.
Laying under the truck and moving the arm by hand I noticed the slave cylinder was getting a bit damp. After sitting a little more it was getting more wet. Maybe there is air getting in the system since fluid appears to be getting out now. I have a spare but the bleeder is stripped so I guess I'll get a new one and start there
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
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Okay, yeah it sounds like you're probably loosing pressure out of that slave. If you check out that post where I recently bled mine you'll see a method of bleeding that doesn't require the bleeder and works far better.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Here it is:
Now, before yesterday's driving the clutch needed to be bled. After the usual pump pump pump, bleed bleed bleed, pump at the slave, bleed, bleed, bleed, with no results as usual I decided to try something new. I recalled awhile back reading at Oilburners Riotwarrior had posted the factory procedure for bleeding this system, a procedure that doesn't even use the bleeder screw. (Also linked in our FAQ)
So I go back to his post for a refresher and then:
[Summary of factory procedure with my notes/suggestions]
1) Remove the slave cylinder.
2) Holding the slave at an angle with the open port where the line goes upwards to allow air to escape fill the slave with brake fluid through this port. (Manual shows it just being poured in, lol, have patience, a bit at a time.) Move the slave around slightly to help air escape. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out the port reinstall the slave, but not the line yet. You will get squirted with fluid a bit as the piston compresses as the slave is pushed into place. **But allow the push rod to push the piston in as needed while installing! If you manually push it all the way in it will suck air back into the slave when the piston travels out to its rested position.**
3) The manual says to remove the MC cap and gravity bleed the MC and line before hooking it back up to the slave cylinder, but I took it a step further and submersed the end of the line in a jar of brake fluid and pumped the air out of the system. I could see the air pushing through.
I hooked the line back up and holy crap Batman, I had clutch on the first push of the pedal!
Remember, when all else fails, read the directions!
So I go back to his post for a refresher and then:
[Summary of factory procedure with my notes/suggestions]
1) Remove the slave cylinder.
2) Holding the slave at an angle with the open port where the line goes upwards to allow air to escape fill the slave with brake fluid through this port. (Manual shows it just being poured in, lol, have patience, a bit at a time.) Move the slave around slightly to help air escape. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out the port reinstall the slave, but not the line yet. You will get squirted with fluid a bit as the piston compresses as the slave is pushed into place. **But allow the push rod to push the piston in as needed while installing! If you manually push it all the way in it will suck air back into the slave when the piston travels out to its rested position.**
3) The manual says to remove the MC cap and gravity bleed the MC and line before hooking it back up to the slave cylinder, but I took it a step further and submersed the end of the line in a jar of brake fluid and pumped the air out of the system. I could see the air pushing through.
I hooked the line back up and holy crap Batman, I had clutch on the first push of the pedal!
Remember, when all else fails, read the directions!
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Your slave is probably shot. Mine did something similar, and the way I had routed my clutch line allowed the slave to flex just enough to wallow-out the hole for it. New slave fixed the problem.
One last thing to make sure is good, regardless of whether the new slave fixes your problem, is the clutch pedal bushing. It's a $2 fix for a new bushing, or a $50 permanent fix for a heim joint.
One last thing to make sure is good, regardless of whether the new slave fixes your problem, is the clutch pedal bushing. It's a $2 fix for a new bushing, or a $50 permanent fix for a heim joint.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Dorman 14041. It's an assortment of bushings. RockAuto has them listed as "shift lever control rod bushings" for an automatic transmission.
on edit... I see you found them right before I did.
on edit... I see you found them right before I did.
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Lind and Vfelix, thanks for that info, will be adding that to the "to do" list on the truck
Mpoulson, it looked/felt ok when I was under the truck but I will inspect it a little closer
Wtroger I did actually try doing that, sorta, just to see if I could get her going, no dice
I did read about the throwout sticking, so I may try and lube it lightly through the fork hole.
I have a Ford cylinder coming from the local dealer today, a little pricey at $106 (employee cost) but I really dont trust the responsibilities of the clutch components to aftermarket parts. I'll try and take some pictures on Wednesday
Mpoulson, it looked/felt ok when I was under the truck but I will inspect it a little closer
Wtroger I did actually try doing that, sorta, just to see if I could get her going, no dice
I did read about the throwout sticking, so I may try and lube it lightly through the fork hole.
I have a Ford cylinder coming from the local dealer today, a little pricey at $106 (employee cost) but I really dont trust the responsibilities of the clutch components to aftermarket parts. I'll try and take some pictures on Wednesday
