prothane control arm bushings
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
prothane control arm bushings
I'm pulling my control arms, but the bushings in my kit from ProThane (JC Whitney) don't look as thick. Anybody used these? They are labeled appropriately.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
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From: Brea CA
prothane control arm bushings
This might sound dumb but why not give them a call, it's toll-free (1-888-PROTHANE).
http://www.prothane.com/Main_Menu/main_menu.html
How are you pulling yours? I have to do mine soon.
Barry
http://www.prothane.com/Main_Menu/main_menu.html
How are you pulling yours? I have to do mine soon.
Barry
Last edited by BB; Jun 25, 2003 at 04:51 PM.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
prothane control arm bushings
I thought I'd check here first. As you know, these guys know more than just about anybody out there :-)
I just got the nuts off. I Have nonthing but a rolling chassis, frame and axles. I was thinking of getting a hydraulic jack and some extension wedged in between the tranny x-member and the I beam to push it out.
Do you have any ideas?
The bushings on there look pretty good, it may not be worth the effort.
I just got the nuts off. I Have nonthing but a rolling chassis, frame and axles. I was thinking of getting a hydraulic jack and some extension wedged in between the tranny x-member and the I beam to push it out.
Do you have any ideas?
The bushings on there look pretty good, it may not be worth the effort.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
prothane control arm bushings
No, I was hoping you had some ideas. 
I've thought about the "push the beam out of the way" method but is there that much "give" in the pivot bushings or will those get trashed in the process? Might as well just take the beams off which seems like a lot of work. Only other option is remove the brackets but mine are the original riveted ones and I’d like to keep ‘em that way.
Decisions, decisions…
I've thought about the "push the beam out of the way" method but is there that much "give" in the pivot bushings or will those get trashed in the process? Might as well just take the beams off which seems like a lot of work. Only other option is remove the brackets but mine are the original riveted ones and I’d like to keep ‘em that way.
Decisions, decisions…
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: rocky mt. nc
prothane control arm bushings
i recently bought the prothane total kit for my truck ( from jc whitney also ) everything fit just fine so far, haven't installed the cab bushings yet. there may have been a slight difference in the radius bushings but it all went back together fine. i'm not sure if there's a proper procedure for changing the bushings but i had to remove the entire axle to get them out. i replaced the axle pivot bushings also ( since the axle already out )
it made a big difference in the handling.
mike
it made a big difference in the handling.
mike
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
prothane control arm bushings
Are you guys running 1/2 ton trucks? I'm thinking tis kit is not correct for 3/4 Ton trucks or Camper Specials. These bushings look way thin. My current bushings look pretty good, I may just leave them.
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
prothane control arm bushings
JC Witney and Prothane market the same kit for F100-F350 trucks. And the individyual package for the bushings even says the same. Something Fishy here. Maybe I'll get some pics later.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
prothane control arm bushings
It's not that hard to drop out the whole beam . The only other way is to cut the rivets. You may want to consider a set from a parts store that have the adjustable caster. I think Moog makes them or you can get them from NAPA
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
prothane control arm bushings
I just let the suspension fall to full droop and hooked a come-along up from front bumper to axle and slipped it right out. (Rubber hose on threads.)
Didn't seem to hurt a thing.
I am (guessing here) the factory rubber junk compresses a lot more that the "prothane" so they thought of that when they built them. A "before and after" thread count should tell you if you need to have the toe-in reset.
Didn't seem to hurt a thing.
I am (guessing here) the factory rubber junk compresses a lot more that the "prothane" so they thought of that when they built them. A "before and after" thread count should tell you if you need to have the toe-in reset.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 74
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From: Eugene
prothane control arm bushings
I replaced my 67 f-100 front I-beams with I-beams from a 78 f350. The bushings were the same. I would remove the brake caliper / line, remove the lower shock bolt and yank away. I think you may find you will need to have both I-beams pulled forward in order to get the second radius arm out. There is a lot of flex in the I-beam bushings.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: tennessee
prothane control arm bushings
I recently purchased a set of the prothane bushings,but as of yet, I haven't gotten around to putting them in yet. My question to those that have used these bushing is do they squeak like everyone keeps telling me they will?? all I have heard from everyone is that they squeak really loudly and theres nothing I could do to stop it. Any advice would help
Jim
Jim