A month ago we had our first real cold weather - neg 5 or so. Truck was outside and that afternoon it warmed up to 15. Started it and it ran for about 30 seconds and died and wouldn't restart. Pushed in in the 65* garage for a few hours and it fired right up. Twice after that it died while driving but fired right back up. Changed the fuel filters and has been fine since. Was in LaCrosse a couple weeks ago for my daughter's college graduation. Was able to plug it in all night at the hotel (-10*) and had no problems. It had to sit out Monday night as I had to fix the kid's car. Yesterday morning it was -15*. By noon it was up to 10. I plugged it in for 4 hours and went to put it back inside. Started up and idled for about 3 minutes. Water temp was 75* and FICM was at 47.5 volts. Put in in reverse and 2' later it died and wouldn't restart. I noticed batteries dropped to 10 volts cranking. Figured time for new ones. Plugged it in all night and put the charger on. 15* out right now. Still wouldn't fire. Volts dropped to 12 but it turned over fast. When driving the alternator runs about 13.5 - 13.8 and after a while settles to 12.8.

What the heck is going on? Is it mad because I moved a Texas truck to Wisconsin? I haven't pushed it in the garage yet but I bet it starts once warmed up. I did replace glow plugs and harness when I got the thing 2 years ago. Could it just be the batteries. I know they don't hold when cold and will get new ones tomorrow, but they did hold 12 volts after charging this morning. I need to be able to trust this thing! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Dave

 

Need to know what the FICM voltage is while cranking. You can try heating the FICM up really good with a blow dryer to see if it starts better. Usually FICM problems rear their ugly head when the motor is cold.

 

It is feeling to me like a IPR when garbage moving through it. The next time you have a no start we need IPR% and ICP and SYNC while cranking. Get a scangauge II and leave it set on the above parameters plus FICM voltage.

 

FICM was 47.5 cranking and was rebuilt by Ed a year ago. I'll have to go back over the codes and see if I have those parameters loaded. I got the SGII when the FICM was dying and didn't get everything loaded. It's only done it after sub-zero temps. I really think it just holds a grudge for bringing it up here from Texas!

 

Along shot but did you change your oil type for cold weather?

 

Exactly, 15W40 and temps near zero and the 6.0 in none too happy.

However, it seems the issue is FICM or EGR related.

Josh

 

It shouldn't settle at 12.8v after driving for a while.

 

I'll try to answer them all. Oil is Rotella T6 synthetic - 5w40. The EGR had an accident soon after I got it and I cant seem to find it. FICM is 47.5 cranking. Sync was a yes. Here's the kicker, cranking the IPR was 14.4 but the ICP was all over. It never got to the magic 500! This only happens when very cold. The lowest ICP I've seen cranking when warm was 590. It normally idles at 625 to 650. Could it be a bad sensor that doesn't like the cold (I know how electronics are all temp sensitive) or am I looking at something more nasty than that?
Thanks again, Dave

 

Try starting cold with the ICP disconnected.

Josh

 

Curses! My manufacture date was 11/03 which I thought was 03 engine. I can't see or feel anything under the turbo/heatshield. I do have a sensor in a notch of the mounting bracket for the glow plug controller that looks right. If that's it, it makes no difference. If it's under the turbo, I can't get my fat crippled body to touch it. I'll get back at it after I get the new batteries.

 

The sensor in the notch is your ICP. You have an 04 engine. The IPR is still located under the turbo on top of the HPOP cover.

 

Either you have the ICP in the passenger valve cover or you don't.

Josh

 

I had a similar cold start issue and the fix was to remove the IAT2 sensor and clean it. Mine was totally blocked with that black oily crap from the intake manifold. It is located just to the right of the fuel filter screwed into the intake manifold. I have 114,000 on my X and the IAT2 was filthy. Should be about a 30 minute job.

Both the MAF temp sensor (located between the air filter and turbo intake) and the IAT2 sensor need to have air flowing through them. If one does not and the other does, wierd stuff happens.

Would suggest anyone with over 75K miles on there 6.0 and have not pulled the IAT2 sensor, to do so as a preventative maintenance measure. I would be willing to bet that 95% of the ones pulled are partially or fully blocked. What happens is the actual temp sensor get coated with the oily crap or the sensor cover holes become blocked. FWIW.

Ed

 

Josh, I wasn't trying to sound like a smart a**. I'm not very familiar with these Fords yet. I was trying to find pics of it in the valve cover and didn't. I didn't know if what I was describing was the right thing or not. I take it that if I have something there it is it.

Ed, I took both MAF and IAT2 out and cleaned. The IAT was plugged solid. I put it all back together and it fired right off. I let it Idle for a minute or so and touched the throttle. As soon as I did it shut right off! It didn't stutter or anything, it was like turning off the key. There are still no codes or pending codes. No freeze frame available either. The FICM was 47.5, in sync, IPR 64 and ICP was 780. Now what? I just know enough about these 6.0's to know where to look. I'll go get new batteries and get them in before I go any further.

Thanks again, Dave

 

Either test each cell in both batteries to look at specific gravity, or have them load tested outside the truck individually. If you fine one bad cell, with lower SG than the others, then you have a battery replacement job. Then have the alternator tested for load again outside the truck is best. If you can't load test, it should run 14.4 volts at initial start and ramp up to 14.8 volts, if it doesn't hit 14.8 then alt is likely on way out but it's not as definitive as a load test amperage measurement. I don't think that's your problem, but you need to rule them out properly before going to the ICP and the ICP pigtail. Just looking your intermittent shut downs is sounds like one or both of ICP and pigtail are on the way out. Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.