engine swap - wont start
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 107
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engine swap - wont start
hi
after a long three days, the new engine is in but wont start.
tomorrow this is my plan of attack:
1. check to see if cps is plugged in
2. keep batteries on charger
3. check oil level ( had hpop line oil leak tonight so know we are pumping)
4. scan (AE) for icp and ipr while cranking
what else should i be looking for ?
after a long three days, the new engine is in but wont start.
tomorrow this is my plan of attack:
1. check to see if cps is plugged in
2. keep batteries on charger
3. check oil level ( had hpop line oil leak tonight so know we are pumping)
4. scan (AE) for icp and ipr while cranking
what else should i be looking for ?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Glow plugs
Fuel in bowl
Fuel pump kicking on
White smoke out the tailpipe
Vc's off look for oil spouting while cranking
Check all fuses
Grounds to the engine
Rub the trolls tummy jewel for good luck...
Fuel in bowl
Fuel pump kicking on
White smoke out the tailpipe
Vc's off look for oil spouting while cranking
Check all fuses
Grounds to the engine
Rub the trolls tummy jewel for good luck...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
hi
the glow plugs, uvch, stancor and injectors were new this summer and swapped over working from the old engine.
there is no smoke from tail pipe at all while cranking but fuel in the bowl.
havent scanned yet but doesn't seem to be any fuel getting to injectors..might be a simple think like the cps not getting plugged in,
the glow plugs, uvch, stancor and injectors were new this summer and swapped over working from the old engine.
there is no smoke from tail pipe at all while cranking but fuel in the bowl.
havent scanned yet but doesn't seem to be any fuel getting to injectors..might be a simple think like the cps not getting plugged in,
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
They are not interchangeable. The steel hard lines going to and from the fuel bowl are: Supply 3/8" and Return 5/16"....The fittings look the same externally, but internally they are two different sizes; as they are at the tank. I adapted the 3/8" supply line to 6AN when I fabricated my regulated return/bowl delete system from tank to engine.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 534
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From: Quaker Hill
Roland, that's interesting. I did reverse them on my truck and it wouldn't start. I had disconnected them at the end if the flex line under the fuse box area. They were a real pain to get undone again. Maybe because they were the wrong size, lol. All I know us that mine clicked together enough to make me think they were connected
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
Roland, that's interesting. I did reverse them on my truck and it wouldn't start. I had disconnected them at the end if the flex line under the fuse box area. They were a real pain to get undone again. Maybe because they were the wrong size, lol. All I know us that mine clicked together enough to make me think they were connected
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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hi
didnt seem simple friday night, outside..5F and needing the truck the next day..lol
the truck spent the last 6 hours plowing and is running great. been checking for leaks but so far none found.
didnt seem simple friday night, outside..5F and needing the truck the next day..lol
the truck spent the last 6 hours plowing and is running great. been checking for leaks but so far none found.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 534
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From: Quaker Hill
I agree. We're talking about 2 different spots for the fuel line connection. If you disconnect the fuel lines in front of the crossmember, they can not be mixed up. However, if you disconnect the lines behind the crossmember, both flex lines, blue and gray, are interchangeable, and a mix up will prevent the fuel bowl from filling, I believe because if the fuel pressure regulator. It can't allow fuel to flow in reverse to the bowl. Ever time I've pulled a 7.3 engine, I've disconnected behind the crossmember, mostly because it's the one I thought was easiest to get to from the top. Usually, I label a lot of stuff when I disconnect, but being this is my 4th time, I assumed I didn't need to. Well, I mixed em up, and after cranking for quite a while, discovered my error. I even had a little white smoke at first which threw me off. Must have been some residual in the fuel rail lines.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 249
Likes: 1
^ exactly what he said. When I pull motors I also disconnect behind the crossmember. When changing the hard steel lines behind the alternator bracket it's obvious they're different. The OP didnt specify which lines he disconnected and I was trying to lend some
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May 13, 2014 09:57 PM