Wiring / Emission / Computer Delete
I have a previous thread regarding a carburetor question and it started to evolve into a discussion on cleaning up the wiring and deleting some emissions.
To that end, I though I'd start a separate post.
After the carb and ignition change (DUI) I'd like to clean up the engine compartment and simplify things a bit. I've been doing some digging around and managed to figure a few things out, but still have some questions.
I followed the wire harness to the right firewall and think I located the MAP sensor. In that harness is also a wire that goes to the starter solenoid, so I'll need to get that separate from the rest, yes? (and the MAP sensor can go, correct?)
There are a few things that I'm not sure what they are or do; since a picture is worth a thousand words, here we go:
What is this and can it go away (looks like some relays or solenoids under the cover);

This (and a black one) look like vacuum lines going to the smog pump valve. If the SMOG system is deleted, do these get capped, or do they route to the above solenoids (if that is what they are)

What is this orange (pink) line coming off the carburetor?

What about this canister. Stay or go?

It looks like there is some sort of valve or sensor on the line coming from the above canister to the carb. What is it and after the computer is gone, can it go away (or should it)

Bottom line; what can go and what needs to stay??
What about the EGR? Computer controlled or no?
I suppose since I'm getting rid of the computer, anything controlled by the computer might as well go. What all is that???
And this conversion was supposed to be easy. Well, I guess the conversion is but the cleanup is confusing the heck out of me..
The device in the picture that is inline with the canister as it enters the carb is the canister purge solenoid. It is computer controlled, so if I understand this correctly, the EVAP system won't work after the computer is pulled out and might as well go away.
Ditto for the EGR and SMOG pump from what I can tell.
If I'm on the right track, it looks like remove items, plug holes and vacuum lines / ports as needed. Open up wire harness and keep some wires and pull the rest. The first picture I posted appears to be a bank of vacuum control solenoids that are also under computer control - so that can go as well.
Am I on the right track? Anything I'm missing?
That orange line going to the carb looks like the fresh air line going to the choke system. That line will run filter air down to the exhaust manifold where it's warmed up and then sucked into the carb choke housing to make the choke work. That's the line you were wondering about re-routing.
All this stuff originally had a purpose, so there will be some things that are affected if you get rid of it.
Bottom line, I guess I need to know what emission stuff is controlled by the computer..
2. - I would start be removing the engine computer and the wiring that goes with it first. It is all part of one large wire harness. The only things that you will need from all that mess is the engine temperature sending unit wire, the oil sending unit wire, and the tachometer. It will be much easier and neater to just wire these back in from scratch than to to try to sort it out. (Once you start to remove the computer and the wire harness, you will see what I mean; some of those splices were SCARY.) Once you have dealt with that, anything left unplugged can be removed.
3. - Not sure what the second picture is.
4. - Like Franklin said, the orange tube is the fresh air connection from the carburetor to the choke stove. Leave this in place.
5. - Leave the charcoal canister in place for now. It is part of the evaporative emissions (EVAP) and it's purpose is to store gas fumes from the gas tank and the carburetor fuel bowl. With the computer gone and canister purge solenoid now useless (the solenoid shown in your last picture), the vapors can't be purged back into the engine to be burned, but that can easily be fixed later by adding a vacuum operated canister purge valve and ported vacuum switch. This system works much like a PCV valve and doesn't rob any horsepower to operate. Like Franklin said, this will keep your truck from smelling like a gas station all the time.
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