In most states, by law, the OEM is required to prove that the aftermarket accessory caused the failure of a warrantable part. The OEM has deeper pockets than most of us though, so if they claim your tuner caused a failure, it is up to you to fight them to prove that it wasn't the tuner, or other mods that caused the problem.

Some people wait until the warranty is over before tuning/deleting. Others tune/delete to improve reliability in hopes that it will save the aggravation of a failed sensor leaving them on the side of the road, soot clogging something, or reduced longevity of the engine and its components due to EGR and regen. In short, if you tune - even if you don't delete - you will likely lose your engine warranty. There are some tuner friendly dealers out there though. In the end you have to decide what is more important, make an informed decision, and live with whatever consequences or benefits you get as a result. Local laws come into play as well if you have to do an annual emissions test.

I personally have my stuff sitting on a shelf waiting for a later install. I want to give the engine some time to prove itself while there is a warranty to cover the occasional "stuff happens" that all manufacturers deal with at one point or another. If at some point, I begin to see a pattern with emissions components causing reliability issues with my truck, I will put my truck on a diet very quickly. On the other hand, after several thousand more miles, I will probably decide that my warranty isn't needed and enjoy the benefits that tuning/deleting offers. My location does not require emissions tests as of now.

 

That was a very good response. l agree that if you want to modify, give the motor 10K or so under warranty miles and see if you have any 'glitches', if not, tune it up but don't go nuts and you'll most likely be fine. I've tuned plenty of under-warranty Fords and have never had an issue. And if you have a good relationship with your dealer, generally unless you ran 40psi on boost and blew a piston through a block, they will deal with you just fine.

Example, I changed the pulley on my GT500 that was tuned of course, it also had a completely new suspension and exhaust/intake system....they did a flywheel replace on this no questions asked and actually commented on how awesome it was. Again, this is something a dealer could have easily argued saying my mods and playing with the car "could" have caused an issue...but..they didn't..no questions asked just complimented the car. It's amazing what a little kind dialogue can get you. (Moral of the story: less time on the Internet, more time talking to real humans haha)

 

Adding to Wagner's comments. Some dealers, one I know of, will not work on an engine with modified smog equip. As stated before, "DO YOUR HOMEWORK AHEAD OF TIME, NOT AFTER THE FACT"

 

Tune/ Delete rookie question......

I understand the exhaust system needs to be replaced with a new exhaust pipe which will get rid of the EGT sensors and DPF. Does the tuner take care of the EGR??? Does the tuner delete the use of DEF ???

Can ya'll give me the basic parts and materials needed to complete everything??? Brand specific isn't necessary but appreciated.

Do I have to physically do anything to the EGR or DEF ??

I guess I'm looking for a quick complete rundown/checklist for what needs to be done so I get my truck deleted/tuned correctly.

Thanks again for any info!!!

 

The tuning electronically shuts down EGR and DEF function. It is up for you to decide whether you want to physically remove it off the truck. The two items needed for a basic delete is:

*Tuner ( Spartan, H&S)
*Delete capable exhaust (4 or 5" full exhaust or just a delete pipe. Delete pipe hooks up to stock down pipe, deletes DPF, then hooks back up to the factory tail pipe section.)


Optional:
*EGR delete (this physically removes the cooler and valve from the truck.)
*Cold air intake (if you plan on running big HP tunes, you will need it.)

 

After reading a few of the past threads on deletes/tuners and the EPA I have decided to get started on this sooner then later.... I'm a little late on this but tuning a truck was something I wanted to do since I drove a tuned f350 9 years ago . It seems to me that 2012 year trucks might be the last year we will be able to delete the emission crap..

Please forgive my ignorance I want to make sure I do this right....

My plans go as follows:
-h&S mini maxx ( with or with out pyro????? Which is better?)
- flo pro or MBRP exhaust , (4" or 5" down pipe back, no muffler, Is there an advantage to the 4" or 5"??) will the 5" pipe attach to stock down pipe??
- is there any benefit to blocking off the EGR cooler with the plates or just turn it off with the tuner?? I also read somewhere about re routeing coolant from the EGR??? ( not sure about that)
- cold air intake.. Haven't decided which brand just yet.
-AM I missing anything here???
-Is this something I should be so urgent about or will there be a way around the EPA in the future..

I realize this is a lot of questions and it will take you DELETED guys time to answer my questions... So any and all help will def be appreciated!!!

I have already looked at SPEdiesels website.. Looks like they got this stuff in stock..

When giving advice please don't roast me for my ignorance.. I'm trying to learn as much as possible before I start swiping the Debit card.

If there is a thread I missed or website that answers these questions please direct me there!!
THANKS AGAIN!!

 

-without pyro (reuse one from the DPF you remove).
-There is a slight advantage to the 5" math wise, but the down pipe is 4", so I really don't think it matters. The 4" or 5" dpf delete pipe will attach to the downpipe if you order the right one. Kind of hard to tell without part numbers posted.
-I recommend physical block off plates only. I don't trust the computer shut off. I want a physical block off plate. The full removal is only needed if you want to shave weight.
-CAI - The S&B one from SPE is the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
-Missing? Part numbers...post them. Instructions here: Best instructions I've seen
Read this thread: good info in this thread
Talk to Amy at SPE. Install the parts with the truck cold. Not cooled down, COLD.
Ask specific questions and do your own research so your fully understand what you are going to do. It's not hard at all, just needs to be done correctly.

 

Thank you Savage...

That thread you recommended says it all!!

I'm starting to get clear on this..

Question:

If I order the H&S w/o the pyro I assume there is a wire harness to install the EGT sensor into the block plate included with the EGR delete kit???? Is this correct??? Or do I use a harness/connection already present.

 

No extra wiring, the egt sensor you will install from the exhaust plugs into a stock sensor plug by the egr.

 

Been doing a lot of research but still got a few questions about EGR deletes...

There is two basic ways to delete the EGR cooler or maybe three???(All require a tuner to turn off EGR cooler and disable the EGR valve)

1.) Full EGR delete kit. This is fairly labor intensive and the entire cooler gets removed and blocked off... Some full removal kits will also re-route coolant... (Is there any benefit to these kits other then shaving weight??) if you take off the entire cooler then what engine/exhaust component before the Cooler is all the soot getting trapped in??

2.) base plate/sensor mount kit for EGR. This is a much simpler install which leaves the EGR cooler in place but disconnects the EGR cooler feed pipe and installs base plates with a EGT sensor installed (EGT sensor taken from DPF delete)... (question about this install....does the EGR cooler still clog with soot just being blocked off and shut down ( it seems to me that all this does is stop the exhaust from leaving the cooler not stopping it from entering the EGR cooler?

Does all that sound right???????


Is one of these methods better for the truck??? If returning to stock one day ISNT important then which way is best???

I'm trying to figure out all the different methods to the EGR delete so please help!!!

Again.... If there is a thread I missed or a link with full explanation please let me know...

Thanks in advance.. U guys have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it!!!!

 

I did method 2 because it was available to me. Many guys did method 1 because initially, it was their only choice (Block off plates came later). In my opinion, method 2 is better if your coolant is still relatively new. Mine was and I didn't want to drain it a bit to install the parts. I knew that I'd just flush it and start with new coolant. It's just me. It is much easier and faster to install the block off plates and you still get a reliable method to measure EGT's.