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The motor was painted grey when it came in. So the only way to get Ford blue in was to paint the pan, galley cover and valve cover, water pump. All the swappables
Me either. Ordered the exhaust piping. I'll have pics of it in action by the end next week.
So what's the best break in for a reman? My buddy is going to do the cam break in. But I mean the engine it self.
On a whole other note. My buddy ( boss) has this 90's F-250 power stroke. It's got tool box's on the back. I'll take pictures tomorrow. But I'm trying to get it from him. Keep all my tools in one place.
.... So what's the best break in for a reman? My buddy is going to do the cam break in. ......
After cam break in and first oil change drive it hard. It will tend to run hot so don't overheat it but heavy loads/full throttle will seat the rings best.
Personally I run a motor through a few head/cool cycles then drive easy with a lot of varying speed (cruise back roads) for the first 500 miles then from 500 to 1,000 I drive it like I am trying to blow it up with heavy throttle as much as possible and higher rpm freeway driving ect. Then change the oil after 1,000 and just drive it however you would usually.
I say easy the 1st 500 cause you will be looking for leaks and doing tuning to carb, timing ect. Also re-torque whatever is required.
Be sure to use a ZINC additive in the first oil and at least the 2nd oil as newer oils are low in zinc and you don't want to eat the lobes off the cam. Prelube the motor before the first start.
Tips: Whether using header or efi mannies, install with studs. It makes the install easier. Grade 8, with a Mr.Gasket 260 gasket.
Don't throw away your first oil filter until the engine has a few thousand miles on it. That filter may be the only evidence you have if something happens, like your oil psi drops. It some pollutant goes through the oil it will be in the filter.
Run pure water for the first few hundred miles. If you have leaks spilt h20 is cheaper than antifreeze.
Thanks everyone. Appreciate the feedback. My new issue is the throttle and kick down linkage. The Clifford intake has no provisions for either. Someone mentioned using one of the carb bolts to mount them. My search has turned up very little. Anyone else had this issue? And how did you resolve it?
I'm sure I could make one. It kinda helps knowing what your making.
If you'd like to make one, I found a good way to start was with a bracket from a GM/chevy/pontiac with a Quadrajet carburetor. With it you are able to resize it and make it fit any carb.
This is what mine turned out to be after I resized it and painted it. Btw, they are everywhere at the j/y. (Don't be talkin' smack about my welds, ha ha.)
@ 250 as long as it holds. And if you apply paint extra thick no one will know.
Parts got held up due to the holidays. So hopefully around the first of the year. After reading thru all the threads, I just didn't understand people and little things slowing the project down. I totally understand a little bit better.