That SHOP is NOT the BEST Very Spendy to THROW PARTS at it and even Repeated Times for a few Parts


You Must program the SGII to Read some STuff

You PAID for TONS of parts WOW

Its NOT worth Tearing Apart Yet Your Going in BLIND

WE need Live Data SO START Programing Once you get the Post Each sensor Value @ KOEO & Idle & 2500RPM In PARK


SGII ENTERING THE X-GAUGES FOR SETUP



UPDATED SYNC CODES FOR SGII

FSN 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)

SYC 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)

V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045

ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts

IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.

 

Before doing anything else, get some live data from your scangage. That may give us a clue where to look. If it comes back good, except for showing low HPO when warm I would take a hard look at yous oil rail injecter nipple cup O-Rings. That's about the only think left.

As Texastech said, search for a post by "Creator". He got into this. The title of the thread is "Injector O-rings, the real story" or somthing like that.

If it is the nipple cup orings, Ford does not sell them and wants to to put on a new oil rail. There are a couple of places to get them and there's also a member that sells the removal tool.

As another post said, normal 100psi air does not show a leak on these things. It takes nitrogen.

The only think that makes me think this might not be it, is because the injector orings usually fail before the HPOP system fails ... so this could be a strange one.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ole-story.html This one

 

First, our scan gauge has been properly programmed, second nipple cups are fine and I am no stranger to online part shopping Ford wanted $1200 for the hpop, Lordco wanted $1600 and accurate diesel gave it to us for $750 shipping included and gave us $150 back with core. I highly recommend them, Tim is amazing and I've ordered so much stuff from that site!

Now my enthusiasm dies because truck I I our shop. Valve covers off another air test shows injector number three leaking. (Which it didn't two weeks ago at our last air test). No big deal we have the injector kits from accurate diesel. But when we took injector number one out, there were metal shavings on the end......

 

were the metal shavings in the OIL Part injector???


Here is a Link to the Best HPOP you can get for 2003


http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20046...lpumphpop.aspx

I wont put another OEM HPOP in Mine 03 wasn't best Design and the Flaws are addressed with ^^this HPOP

 

[quote=littlegirl/bigtruck;13841194]First, our scan gauge has been properly programmed, quote]

SO I suppose you checked

ICP
ICPV
IPR%

@ KOEO & Idle & 2500rpm???????????????

 

Ok everyone. So 100% we have a brand new faulty hpop. After taking off the cover and putting air directly to the pump I could clearly feel the air coming from the drive side. But if we disconnected the discharge tube and put air to that alone, the rest of the system was air tight. How do I post pictures or videos so I can share the experience and the easily made fitting to put air to the pump with the cover off?

 

Photobucket is what most use

 

Have a look in the cover where the discharge tube goes. It may be worn to the point the d ring wont seal.

 

That's a brand new o ring at the top. But it is clearly leaking at the gears. It's not questionable at all where it is coming from.