first post. too bad its for a crappy situation. came to this truck from a duramax. so i dont know nearly as much about it as i do about the duramax platform. ive done a good bit of homework, but i am sure there are acronyms and parts that i dont know. please bear with me.

truck:
2004 F-350 (early) 6.0 with the 2003 6.0 engine. 100% stock minus all the factory ford recall items such as the EGR. 235,000 miles.

situation:
noticed the truck had a lack of power while driving. it ran fine, just had no power. eventually it died while going down the road. towed it home, cleared the 2290 and 2291 codes and it started but ran somewhat rough at idle. RPM's would not exceed 1500.
IPC and IPR were replaced with new ones. truck would once again start, but not exceed 1500 RPM. i let it idle for a couple minutes while i checked things out and it died on its own. would not start back up.

using a scan gauge II, i had FICM sync, 48V ficm voltage, 85.7% IPR and >500 psi IPC. (forget what the exact number was) i unplugged the IPC and tried again, no luck.

ordered a new HPOP, replaced it and tried again. however, still no start. FICM sync, 48V FICM voltage, 85.7% IPR, and a solid 22psi IPC pressure that does not fluctuate when key on or when cranking. 22psi at all times.

as far as tests that i have done, i have disconnected the IPC and cranked, commanded the IPR closed and cranked, i have verified fuel supply, i have verified that oil is filling the oil filter housing.
I HAVE NOT pressurized the HPO system with shop air. i wanted to, but im doing this work in the parking lot of my condo and dont even have a garage. i can buy an air tank and fill it with air at a gas station and try to pressurize it that way.
also, i DID NOT replace the HPOP oil tube. i tried to buy the o ring for it, but i cant get it without buying the whole tube. the dealer wanted way too much money. however, i did remove it and inspect it. it seemed like it looked ok to me. looks can be deceiving though.

i beleive that i have cranked enough to purge a good amount of air out of the oil system. seems like air in the system should not be an issue anymore. however, the ICP pressure remains the same when cranking and just with key on. is this indicative of something?

any thoughts?

 

Where did you get the HPOP from? Some folks have had bad Ford remans out of the box.
Ford has the best reman injectors.............HPOP, not so much.
ICP and IPR need to be OEM, not cheap china man special, who flung dung knock off no good.

Was the ICP oily when you replaced it? Did the pigtail have any oil contamination? Something does not add up with it stuck at 22 psi.

Still be a good idea to air test, little more work on the early builds, much easier with the turbo out when you did the pump. I would take drivers side valve cover off and go in the oil rail, but you are going to need an air compressor. Air tank probably won't help much.
Keep the batteries up, or risk damaging the FICM

 

The hpop is a reman from forddiesels.com.

the icp was oily when I removed it.
I agree that the icp pressure makes no sense. But it really does not move at all. Key on the scan gauge reads 22psi. During cranking it doesn't move At all. Only time I can get a different reading is if I unplug it.

 

You will want to replace the ICP pigtail if the sensor was oily, that plug gets contaminated and will create issues sometimes.
That said, it should start unplugged if it was just a bad ICP or pigtail. It's possible the oily pigtail/plug is giving a bad reading, but I'm thinking you have a leak somewhere. Air test is the only way to confirm.

Still wondering, what brand sensors did you use?

 

I broke the original icp pigtail. I replaced it because of that.

You don't think that an airtank will have enough volume to do a pressure test?

 

If I don't have an air compressor, can I tear into the hpop cover, remove the valve covers and crank the truck from the starter wire on the passenger side to look for oil leaks in the hpo system?

 

If you are only getting 22 psi (same as KOEO), then the issue is most likely more than a leak in the oil rail, or at an injector, IMO at least.

Can you think back on the HPOP install and come up with something that might not have gone well? All plastic plugs removed from the remanned HPOP before install? Any o-ring that might have been pinched, etc?

When you say the oil filter canister fills, how fast does it fill? With or without the drain valve closed? Are you seeing any pressure (low pressure) register on the dash gauge?

 

Other than not replacing the hpop oil tube, I can not think of anything that may be wrong. I checked, double checked and triple checked my hpop install with how "diesel tech ron" shows.

the oil filter canister filled within a few seconds and drained at a pretty steady rate as well. The gauge on the dash shows oil psi after some time of cranking.

I think I'm going to see about borrowing an air compressor to pressurize the system

 

I assume that these are probably OK, but just have to ask to be thoroiugh ..... Does closing the oil filter drain valve prevent the oil filter from draining (ie test to make sure the drain valve seals properly)? Are you using an OEM oil filter and cap?

 

I'm not sure. Have not tested the drain valve. I will check the next time I wrench on it.

every single filter, gasket, cap, fluid (except oil), o ring etc is motorcraft. I've heard horror stories about using anything else.