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Check to see if you hear the shift motor engaging. If not hearing it, locate the shift motor on the transfer case. Pull the connector and check for corroded pins. Spray with contact cleaner and try again.
Check to see if you hear the shift motor engaging. If not hearing it, locate the shift motor on the transfer case. Pull the connector and check for corroded pins. Spray with contact cleaner and try again.
Use a battery charger and apply 12v to it. The solenoid should make a noise as it engages the gears. Then there is no question.
Not a good idea to use a battery charger because of the voltage spikes. It's like an alternator. It has the capability to shoot out way more than 12 volts if not connected to a battery.
Not a good idea to use a battery charger because of the voltage spikes. It's like an alternator. It has the capability to shoot out way more than 12 volts if not connected to a battery.
Good point. Use an extra 12v battery maybe? I used a charger without thinking about this.
Best thing to do is get the ohm specs on the motor and test the pins with a meter to get the resistance reading. Also that motor may not operate on 12v. Might go threw a module with a step down transformer to say 4.5 or 5 volts I think is the most common values on fords. If my ford tech service was still active id look up the pin point steps to diagnose the problem. Try finding someone on here that has access to ford tech service.
Many thanks to all who replied (that's why I've been a member here since 2004). Problem turned out to be a loose connection - which had then corroded on the Transfer Case control module (think that's what it is called) on driver's firewall area. Fixed it with spare parts (after 2taking hours to find it). No complaints!
As usual, I printed out all of your suggestions and put them in the X files just in case it happens again.