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Yep they do now. 450 bucks. Not sure I want to spend that much on something that has not been proven yet.
One thing I did learn is what the compressor wheel looks like. I heard things like twin turbo before but I didn't know exactly what they meant but after looking at the site below and the this video link it's pretty cool how they did a twin turbo.
I'm see'ing a 60.2 hp increase over stock with a 117.2 torque increase over stock.
This is of course the tested engine was completely stock.
A few of us have modded trucks. So, what tuning would be required if the WW being dropped into a modded truck? It would be nice to hear from both DieselSite and H&S.
I would be willing to give this a try if the tuning was right.
I use their Ford 6.7L Fuel Filter / Water Separator System. I love it.
I would love to see one of these in a tuned truck. I would consider putting one in mine but at the price of a blown turbo, I think I'm gonna let someone else be the guinea pig.
But it's not the wheel itself that is the failure mode on the stock turbos is it? Something else lets go, the wheel crashes into something, and then it's all downhill from there...
So far bearing failure has led to the turbo issues that I have seen. Not sure how that wheel and the increased boost it creates addresses the strain on the stock bearings.
To me, this seems like a really well-thought way of addressing a turbocharger upgrade.
Most OEM turbo wheel/shaft assemblies are spun in excess of hundreds of thousands of RPM. At those speeds, out-of-balance amounts in the microns can lead to shaft wobble which leads to bearing failure. Now turn up the boost like all the tuners are doing and you further remove any margin for error. And I'm not knocking that approach, we all do it willingly for the fun factor.
But what I'm seeing out of that wicked wheel is a lighter wheel, for one, being billet, so less strain on the entire shaft assembly, and they also claim to move more air at the same operating RPM, so no need to overspin your turbo to get the more PSI we're all looking for. There's your power upgrade without theoretically decreasing overall longevity of the unit.
Running larger compressor wheels in existing assemblies certainly isn't new technology, but the billet angle is. Only concern I could voice is it was always my understanding that if you modified anything about a turbocharger assembly, on either wheel hot or cold, you wanted to re-balance the entire rotating assembly as a unit.
But it's not the wheel itself that is the failure mode on the stock turbos is it? Something else lets go, the wheel crashes into something, and then it's all downhill from there...
Originally Posted by SavageNFS
So far bearing failure has led to the turbo issues that I have seen. Not sure how that wheel and the increased boost it creates addresses the strain on the stock bearings.
Originally Posted by Hdslider
Savage my thoughts as well.
1st.... too bad I just put a turbo in last week! Never seen that before and would have been pretty easy with a brand new turbo on the bench...... But it is not coming back out at this point....
From what I have heard and seen on mine it is the bearing that fails. Both the old sleeve bearings and the new ball bearings have failed. Seems once the bearing goes out the shaft goes out of balance and bends (in my case) or breaks in some other cases. The shaft bending was definately the cause of my failure. The shaft is bent in the direction of the damage to the wheel. If the impact had cause the shaft to bend, the bend would be in the other direction. The wheel is twin aluminum stock but not made from billet.
Possibly... if the wicked wheel made more boost at a lower RPM it could prolong bearing life. Stock wheel is really light so I can't see much of an advantage there... I think it would be the weight of the steel exhaust side wheel that would be the major factor in bearing life.
Just my $0.02, I am by no means an expert on turbos
1st.... too bad I just put a turbo in last week! Never seen that before and would have been pretty easy with a brand new turbo on the bench...... But it is not coming back out at this point....
From what I have heard and seen on mine it is the bearing that fails. Both the old sleeve bearings and the new ball bearings have failed. Seems once the bearing goes out the shaft goes out of balance and bends (in my case) or breaks in some other cases. The shaft bending was definately the cause of my failure. The shaft is bent in the direction of the damage to the wheel. If the impact had cause the shaft to bend, the bend would be in the other direction. The wheel is twin aluminum stock but not made from billet.
Possibly... if the wicked wheel made more boost at a lower RPM it could prolong bearing life. Stock wheel is really light so I can't see much of an advantage there... I think it would be the weight of the steel exhaust side wheel that would be the major factor in bearing life.
Just my $0.02, I am by no means an expert on turbos
That is really cool tho
I'm more leaning towards the opposite happening, D.
I wouldn't be surprised if the higher boost pressures you were running and overspinning the center section to accomplish that, eventually led to an initially infinitesimal out-of-balance amount becoming a much greater out-of-balance amount, which wobbled the shaft taking out the bearings and wheel in the process.
It's probably impossible to know at this point, but my experience with turbochargers leads me to lean that way.
I would love to try this but I feel the only true 60hp and 100+ lbs of torque would only be realized by a stock truck. A tuned truck will run out of fuel without a second pump or at least a single modified pump. I know my truck pulls like a freight train with the Hot X tune and I would love to add the WW2 but swapping the wheel isn't gonna gain me 60 more hp and 100+ ft lbs. I'd like to see dyno numbers of a typical bolt on exhaust/intake/tuner truck and see the numbers............... Along with either enough money to upgrade my fuel system or a halfway house that takes in newly divorced men with nothing but a pickup truck!!
I'm more leaning towards the opposite happening, D.
I wouldn't be surprised if the higher boost pressures you were running and overspinning the center section to accomplish that, eventually led to an initially infinitesimal out-of-balance amount becoming a much greater out-of-balance amount, which wobbled the shaft taking out the bearings and wheel in the process.
It's probably impossible to know at this point, but my experience with turbochargers leads me to lean that way.
IDK... but I guess I should not have said the bearing "out". There is excessive play there but it still spins freely. The shaft is bent and it was not the impact that bent it. I agree with this for sure. The thing was pushed way past design for 70,000 miles, up to 38 PSI.
I am not knocking the stock turbo, I think it works good. If I didn't I would have put one of the kits in. I am long done with mods on this truck and just want to drive it for a couple years.
IDK... but I guess I should not have said the bearing "out". There is excessive play there but it still spins freely. The shaft is bent and it was not the impact that bent it. I agree with this for sure. The thing was pushed way past design for 70,000 miles, up to 38 PSI.
I am not knocking the stock turbo, I think it works good. If I didn't I would have put one of the kits in. I am long done with mods on this truck and just want to drive it for a couple years.
Oh absolutely, I didn't mean to imply over-revving leads to an immediate failure, tho it could, but rather a continual reduction in life-span. I completely understand where your coming from, and your experience, to me, is 100% expected.
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