Greetings, My step son flipped his 99 Ranger when he lost it on a ice covered road. The cab seems to be the only thing crunched. Where can I find information, schematics, drawings, anything on how to remove this beast and replace it?? I'm not a mechanic by anymeans but I'll try anything once. Is this a massive job that I'm going to regret attempting? I do have a tractor with a rather high loader for lifting if that helps. I just need to know how to disconnect it and what all needs to be disconnected. Thanks to all of you whom help the me the needy in this endeavor..

 

Welcome to FTE.

Dang sorry to hear about the rolled Ranger. Hope the son was wearing his restraints & fared ok!!!!

I've not done anything like this, nor know anyone who has, so I'm not going to be of any help on proceedure, but maybe bumping this post up to the top of the forum will have someone who has done it, to read & chime in.

Don't know which cab it has, nor how the rolled vehicle is equipped, nor if the new cab is the same & how much of the wiring harness it'll have, or equipt. your going to swap, but staying as close to the origional wiring harness & computer, will likely cause fewer electrical problems. Keep us posted on how it goes.

 

If you can match model & year, you can just disconnect the current harness(s), steering, brakes, throttle, trans/clutch and lift the old one off. There are about a half dozen large nuts & bolts that attach the cab to the chassis. You can see the ones directly under the cab, and identify because they will have the large rubber 'donut' bushings. I believe there are a couple more up near the front radiator support.
You will have a slight problem with DMV as the VIN will have changed based on the location of the VIN. Older had them at the lower edge of the windshield, newer have them on a sticker on the door/jamb. VIN changes are legal if documented, as are 'body changes' where you saw the top off your sedan to make a convertible...
When the vehicle was assembled, likely the cab was lowered onto the chassis. Most would do that with the drivetrain already installed. Then the electrical, fuel, throttle, transmission, clutch and cooling system components would be connected. The designers tried to make the connections quick and foolproof which is the reason for so many quick disconnect fittings that just require the parts to be pushed together without wrench or tool. You will need some tools to disconnect the old stuff, such a fuel and transmission cooler if equipped. The heater hoses may also need a tool to disconnect.
It would be a good idea, I think, to make note of all the connections 'broken' when removing the old cab, and using that as a checklist to make sure all was re-connected later. I was a my SIL body shop where they changed the chassis of a Chevrolet pickup. It was 4WD, and had a bend in the chassis, but not the rest of the body, so was repairable. All wiring, clips, fittings, suspension, crossmembers, etc were transferred to the replacement, and the cab put back in place. Plain old assembly, no expertise required.
tom
ADD: Get the exact same model & vintage or you'll spend a lot of time chasing that one last connector or fitting. Taking the time to get a match will pay off in the long run. You might even find one with the matching color.

 

I suggest that you consider only cutting off the top, make the truck a convertible.
That would cut the amount of work in half, at least maybe cut it by two-thirds.