When the cycle went short < I replaced the solenoid and saw that it was not the problem . I replaced the "base" under the solenoid with a salvaged unit from a donor motor that i had in the yard . There was a slight discrepancy in the wiring , namely a large eye on the "white" wire that originally went to the small terminal to the right in the photo but the off white wire on this base has a large eye suggesting another location ? Ultimately , I have a long cycle on the dash indicator , but no audible glow plug cycling after the initial heat , and no start , suggesting that the glow plugs are not heating either . Can someone steer me to reliable test of the solenoid hookup , output ?

 

On mine the yellow wire with the large eye is on the large terminal under the "Z" resistor, but my wiring is MAJORLY messed up by the PO so don't follow that unless someone can confirm if that's right or wrong.

The white wire is the ground to the relay, it's what the controller controls to turn the relay on to power the GPs. So ignition on there should be a hot to the small terminal opposite the white wire and a ground at the white wire only when the controller is trying to turn the GPs on.

 

Yellow on top left. only the white wire on top right, green on bottom of zz resister with gp wires. main power hot on bottom right. red on bottom left. black with big loop is ground, go's on mounting bolt. and black with push connector I think is WTS lite.

 

IMO the yellow wire is part of the feedback circuit that senses the gp temp via the change in resistance to ground along with the green wire. when the key is in the on or run position there is constant power to the controller, when the key is turned on the controller begins the heating process, when the engine starts it heats the gps, and the controller stops sending power to gps when it see's hot gps, this type of gp controller need's feed back typs gp's like the zd9, from Orielys

 

it looks like you don't have a white wire coming out of the controller, it looks like the red or orange wire with the black shrink tube, may be the wire that go's on upper right, and the yellow with big loop, go's on top left.

 

correct , there is no white wire

 

can i get that copper squiggle resistor off your parts truck? if you wanna sell pm me

yellow goes to the rig terminal with the copper resistor, the orange needs to move to the open small terminal

also it looks like you have 2 wires going into the one large terminal, that is battery, the terminal on the controler ( black box) will have the run to the gps. a push button will just run a hot to the small open terminal to test the solinoid.

 

I believe the orange one with shrink tube is supposed to be you white wire, I would try moving it to the proper location but don't expect it to work, the controller grounds the white (orange in your case) wire to turn on the relay, the way you have it wired it is trying to ground battery + and the control will lose and burn out.... sorry to say but still give it a try, heres some pics of a controller for wire position and order.

 

[quote=ifrythings;13799433]I believe the orange one with shrink tube is supposed to be you white wire, I would try moving it to the proper location but don't expect it to work, the controller grounds the white (orange in your case) wire to turn on the relay, the way you have it wired it is trying to ground battery + and the control will lose and burn out.... sorry to say but still give it a try, heres some pics of a controller for wire position and order.



thanks for the clear photo for reference , I am optimistic about the controller since there was no smoke or hot smell .

 

With yellow wire on the resistor and orange on the upper right , I get just a quick flash of the dash indicator .

edit , yellow wire was hitting the lower terminal , once moved I have long indicator on the dash but no audible cycling after and NO START

looks like I'm off to the parts store

 

Well it is now 4 months later and I have not heard so much as a fart from this motor since this whole issue began . The van always gets parked for the winter so it has been on the back burner , but it's time to wake it up . The relay was replaced and I'm confident that it is working , but I don't seem to be getting fuel , is the shut off controlled by this same relay ?

 

have I got this right ?

 

Looks right to me, the red wire that goes to the gp controller also goes to the FSS on the ip, if you turn the key on and unplug the connector closest to you and then put it back on you should hear a click indicating its working, if so, next step is check the fuel filter and make sure its full

 

ok sorta busy so thought id just throw this in

dont know if its been covered and this is a copy and paste so not my own

The 7.3 system can be tested this way. Rig up a way to put a voltmeter probe on the #2 glow plug, without disconnecting it. I use a thin wire under the connector and hold my probe to this. Have an assistant turn the key on, and verify that the initial voltage to the glow plug is around 6 or 7 volts max. The voltage should slowly climb until you get to about 11 volts at which point the wait to start light should go out. If the voltage starts out at a higher value, climbs too quickly, or doesn't move at all, then you have a glow plug or wiring issue. You can test the glow plug relay by putting a volt meter across the large lugs. At rest, you should see full battery voltage. When the relay is energized, you should get a reading of less than .1 volt.

Using a volt meter (digital preferred) set it to ohms (resistance). Place one lead on the block and the other to the tip of the glow plug where the electrical connector goes. You should get 0.3 -0.8 ohms resistance for our trucks. I would think some glow plugs for other applications (gm's continuous duty cycle perhaps) would be higher but this test works for mercedes, volkswagen, peugot, idi, powerstroke, and isuzu. Thats what I have tested so far.



also the stake body guy here idr his name hes modded his truck as much as i have. he just got a new truck too the chip truck iirc he has a write up that is excelent. pm me if these dont pinpoint it i got a haynes diesel suppliment i can walk you through testing over the phone sometime

 

I finally got back to this and the glow plugs immediately start to cycle when I turn the key , then stop after about 5 seconds , still no start !