major problem!!!
I am trying to think of a clear white thing under my hood.
Melted wires inside the cab, were the glow plugs wired straight through a switch or did the switch trigger the relay?
Glow plugs when converted to manual control must be on a momentary switch, one that is spring loaded to return to off when your finger is not on them.
Power wire from the positive battery terminal to the glow plug relay.

In this picture the red wire is from my battery, the smaller red goes on to the starter solenoid power in terminal.
The purple wire is from the stock controller, power here closes the relay to heat the glow plugs.
The blue wire is power out to the glow plugs, the blue is a fusible link before the orange wires start.
There is a small gauge black with pink stripe wire under the blue wire, it goes to the wait to start light in the dash.
The small black wire is a ground for the relay trigger coil.
If you remove the purple wire, the relay should not close and turn the glow plugs on.
My method for manual control here is start with a hot wire in the fuse box, prefferably one only hot whe the key is on.
Run that to a momentary switch and attach to one terminal.
Attach another wire to the other terminal of the switch and run that one to the purple wire terminal of the relay.
Operation depends on the power in wire.
If the wire is only hot when the key is on, the key must be on before you push the switch and hold it for 10 seconds.
Then start the engine.
If he can not hook up the battery without the glow plugs heating, there has to be more.
Even if every wire in that engine to chassis connector melted together, there is no power there until you turn the key to on when the batteries are hooked up.
So what ever is turning the glow plugs on has to either be under the dash or the relay contacts were melted together.
Remove both small wires on the relay, then try to hook the battery up again.
If you still have a big draw, you most likely need a new relay.



