Procedure for installing Headers
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 712
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From: Booneville, Missouri
Procedure for installing Headers
I have a 1987 F150 5.0L E4OD XLT Lariat 2WD Standard Cab.
I just ordered some "shorty" headers from Summit Racing #70-1322.
I want to install them correctly and this will be my first time. They come with studs, bolts and gaskets. Should I use Loctite for example or just tighten them without anything. How much torque; ft. lbs., should I tighten them?
I have a large honing stone that I can use on the heads to smooth them up a bit.
What precautions should I use when removing the old nuts and bolts? I thought that if I spray them daily with Liquid Wrench for a few days prior to removal will help but I need to hear it from you members.
Summit Technical assured me that they will bolt to my stock exhaust without any modifications but I have my doubts.
Both Headers come with a bung so should I use the right one for my O2 Sensor or "downstream" of a y-pipe?
I also ordered plugs for the bungs so if necessary I will have them on hand. Do I use Loctite on the plugs as well?
I will also use Ford Racing Wires (9MM).
The entire exhaust will be 2.5" from collectors to tailpiece.
Do you recommend a "high-flow" catalytic converter? Eventually, I will be removing the Air Pump and all of the associated plumbing.
Many thanks for your help!!!
Boon
I just ordered some "shorty" headers from Summit Racing #70-1322.
I want to install them correctly and this will be my first time. They come with studs, bolts and gaskets. Should I use Loctite for example or just tighten them without anything. How much torque; ft. lbs., should I tighten them?
I have a large honing stone that I can use on the heads to smooth them up a bit.
What precautions should I use when removing the old nuts and bolts? I thought that if I spray them daily with Liquid Wrench for a few days prior to removal will help but I need to hear it from you members.
Summit Technical assured me that they will bolt to my stock exhaust without any modifications but I have my doubts.
Both Headers come with a bung so should I use the right one for my O2 Sensor or "downstream" of a y-pipe?
I also ordered plugs for the bungs so if necessary I will have them on hand. Do I use Loctite on the plugs as well?
I will also use Ford Racing Wires (9MM).
The entire exhaust will be 2.5" from collectors to tailpiece.
Do you recommend a "high-flow" catalytic converter? Eventually, I will be removing the Air Pump and all of the associated plumbing.
Many thanks for your help!!!
Boon
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,507
Likes: 121
From: Oregon
Soak all of the bolts for several days with the Liquid Wrench. Here is how I did it on my 92.
1. Jack up truck to get front wheels off. Use jack stands.
2. Remove both inner fender wells.
3. Start on the passenger side. Work through the wheel well.
4. Unbolt the collector first.
5. Breaking them loose is tricky. If they are really crusty be careful. If they don't want to beak loose under force of a 12" breaker bar, I suggest soaking them more. I usead an impact on a low setting to break the majority of them loose. However, my engine is only 10 years old, out of the rust belt with only 40k miles on it. For the ones I couldn't reach with the impact, I was able to break them loose with a 12" ratchet with ease.
6. Once you have them loose, take your time backing them out. If they start becoming hard to back out, tighten them back in a few turns, spray with Liquid Wrench and work the bolt back and forth until it clears the spot it is hanging up on.
7. Once you have the manifold off clean the head surface with fine sandpaper and blow off with compressed air. The idea is to get it as clean as you can. I would also suggest checking the surface of the head with a strait edge.
8. Once it is all cleaned up, hang the with the first and last bolts, then slide the gasket in and put the rest in. Do NOT tighten any of them yet. Run them all don snug by hand. Once they are all snug, tighten with a ratchet stating from the middle working your way out. Do it incrementally. I don't have a torque spec, but I would say use a ratchet and snug them all up by feel.
9. Bolt up collector and repeat on the other side.
10. Once it is all back together start it up and listen for leaks. A piece of hose up to your ear works well. Note that there will be smoke from the paint burning off.
11. When you go for a drive listen for ticking that wasn't there before. If there is a noticeable tick that gets louder with rpm, its a leak. The best way I found to find the leak was to let the truck cool off, put a shop vac on a blower setting or a leaf blower up the tailpipe. Seal it at the tail pipe. Once it is one start spraying the header everywhere it seals with soapy water. If you see bubbles forming that's a leak.
Couple of added notes here. Do NOT use the gaskets that come with the headers. Look into some good quality aftermarket ones. I was recommended Percy's as several member here used them with success. I used their oval port aluminum ones and the driver side lasted a couple days before it blew. Could just be the oval port ones as I think the square ports are what everyone else used. Next is paint for the headers. The paint that comes on them will burn off within 15 minutes leaving them bare. I used Rustoleum high heat paint and primer on mine. Worked well. I also suggest getting new collector bolts as the ones that come with the headers are crap as well. The first time I went to back them out to adjust to fix a leak they snapped. I replaces with grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers.
Do NOT use Locktite on any of the bolts. Use some high temp copper RTV on the plugs when you install them so they seal.
As for a high flow cat, with how well the work now, I would use one. They don't restrict the exhaust much at all and cut down emissions. Even if you don't have emissions, there is no need to be self centered by polluting more than you need to.
1. Jack up truck to get front wheels off. Use jack stands.
2. Remove both inner fender wells.
3. Start on the passenger side. Work through the wheel well.
4. Unbolt the collector first.
5. Breaking them loose is tricky. If they are really crusty be careful. If they don't want to beak loose under force of a 12" breaker bar, I suggest soaking them more. I usead an impact on a low setting to break the majority of them loose. However, my engine is only 10 years old, out of the rust belt with only 40k miles on it. For the ones I couldn't reach with the impact, I was able to break them loose with a 12" ratchet with ease.
6. Once you have them loose, take your time backing them out. If they start becoming hard to back out, tighten them back in a few turns, spray with Liquid Wrench and work the bolt back and forth until it clears the spot it is hanging up on.
7. Once you have the manifold off clean the head surface with fine sandpaper and blow off with compressed air. The idea is to get it as clean as you can. I would also suggest checking the surface of the head with a strait edge.
8. Once it is all cleaned up, hang the with the first and last bolts, then slide the gasket in and put the rest in. Do NOT tighten any of them yet. Run them all don snug by hand. Once they are all snug, tighten with a ratchet stating from the middle working your way out. Do it incrementally. I don't have a torque spec, but I would say use a ratchet and snug them all up by feel.
9. Bolt up collector and repeat on the other side.
10. Once it is all back together start it up and listen for leaks. A piece of hose up to your ear works well. Note that there will be smoke from the paint burning off.
11. When you go for a drive listen for ticking that wasn't there before. If there is a noticeable tick that gets louder with rpm, its a leak. The best way I found to find the leak was to let the truck cool off, put a shop vac on a blower setting or a leaf blower up the tailpipe. Seal it at the tail pipe. Once it is one start spraying the header everywhere it seals with soapy water. If you see bubbles forming that's a leak.
Couple of added notes here. Do NOT use the gaskets that come with the headers. Look into some good quality aftermarket ones. I was recommended Percy's as several member here used them with success. I used their oval port aluminum ones and the driver side lasted a couple days before it blew. Could just be the oval port ones as I think the square ports are what everyone else used. Next is paint for the headers. The paint that comes on them will burn off within 15 minutes leaving them bare. I used Rustoleum high heat paint and primer on mine. Worked well. I also suggest getting new collector bolts as the ones that come with the headers are crap as well. The first time I went to back them out to adjust to fix a leak they snapped. I replaces with grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers.
Do NOT use Locktite on any of the bolts. Use some high temp copper RTV on the plugs when you install them so they seal.
As for a high flow cat, with how well the work now, I would use one. They don't restrict the exhaust much at all and cut down emissions. Even if you don't have emissions, there is no need to be self centered by polluting more than you need to.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Booneville, Missouri
Soak all of the bolts for several days with the Liquid Wrench. Here is how I did it on my 92.
1. Jack up truck to get front wheels off. Use jack stands.
2. Remove both inner fender wells.
3. Start on the passenger side. Work through the wheel well.
4. Unbolt the collector first.
5. Breaking them loose is tricky. If they are really crusty be careful. If they don't want to beak loose under force of a 12" breaker bar, I suggest soaking them more. I usead an impact on a low setting to break the majority of them loose. However, my engine is only 10 years old, out of the rust belt with only 40k miles on it. For the ones I couldn't reach with the impact, I was able to break them loose with a 12" ratchet with ease.
6. Once you have them loose, take your time backing them out. If they start becoming hard to back out, tighten them back in a few turns, spray with Liquid Wrench and work the bolt back and forth until it clears the spot it is hanging up on.
7. Once you have the manifold off clean the head surface with fine sandpaper and blow off with compressed air. The idea is to get it as clean as you can. I would also suggest checking the surface of the head with a strait edge.
8. Once it is all cleaned up, hang the with the first and last bolts, then slide the gasket in and put the rest in. Do NOT tighten any of them yet. Run them all don snug by hand. Once they are all snug, tighten with a ratchet stating from the middle working your way out. Do it incrementally. I don't have a torque spec, but I would say use a ratchet and snug them all up by feel.
9. Bolt up collector and repeat on the other side.
10. Once it is all back together start it up and listen for leaks. A piece of hose up to your ear works well. Note that there will be smoke from the paint burning off.
11. When you go for a drive listen for ticking that wasn't there before. If there is a noticeable tick that gets louder with rpm, its a leak. The best way I found to find the leak was to let the truck cool off, put a shop vac on a blower setting or a leaf blower up the tailpipe. Seal it at the tail pipe. Once it is one start spraying the header everywhere it seals with soapy water. If you see bubbles forming that's a leak.
Couple of added notes here. Do NOT use the gaskets that come with the headers. Look into some good quality aftermarket ones. I was recommended Percy's as several member here used them with success. I used their oval port aluminum ones and the driver side lasted a couple days before it blew. Could just be the oval port ones as I think the square ports are what everyone else used. Next is paint for the headers. The paint that comes on them will burn off within 15 minutes leaving them bare. I used Rustoleum high heat paint and primer on mine. Worked well. I also suggest getting new collector bolts as the ones that come with the headers are crap as well. The first time I went to back them out to adjust to fix a leak they snapped. I replaces with grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers.
Do NOT use Locktite on any of the bolts. Use some high temp copper RTV on the plugs when you install them so they seal.
As for a high flow cat, with how well the work now, I would use one. They don't restrict the exhaust much at all and cut down emissions. Even if you don't have emissions, there is no need to be self centered by polluting more than you need to.
1. Jack up truck to get front wheels off. Use jack stands.
2. Remove both inner fender wells.
3. Start on the passenger side. Work through the wheel well.
4. Unbolt the collector first.
5. Breaking them loose is tricky. If they are really crusty be careful. If they don't want to beak loose under force of a 12" breaker bar, I suggest soaking them more. I usead an impact on a low setting to break the majority of them loose. However, my engine is only 10 years old, out of the rust belt with only 40k miles on it. For the ones I couldn't reach with the impact, I was able to break them loose with a 12" ratchet with ease.
6. Once you have them loose, take your time backing them out. If they start becoming hard to back out, tighten them back in a few turns, spray with Liquid Wrench and work the bolt back and forth until it clears the spot it is hanging up on.
7. Once you have the manifold off clean the head surface with fine sandpaper and blow off with compressed air. The idea is to get it as clean as you can. I would also suggest checking the surface of the head with a strait edge.
8. Once it is all cleaned up, hang the with the first and last bolts, then slide the gasket in and put the rest in. Do NOT tighten any of them yet. Run them all don snug by hand. Once they are all snug, tighten with a ratchet stating from the middle working your way out. Do it incrementally. I don't have a torque spec, but I would say use a ratchet and snug them all up by feel.
9. Bolt up collector and repeat on the other side.
10. Once it is all back together start it up and listen for leaks. A piece of hose up to your ear works well. Note that there will be smoke from the paint burning off.
11. When you go for a drive listen for ticking that wasn't there before. If there is a noticeable tick that gets louder with rpm, its a leak. The best way I found to find the leak was to let the truck cool off, put a shop vac on a blower setting or a leaf blower up the tailpipe. Seal it at the tail pipe. Once it is one start spraying the header everywhere it seals with soapy water. If you see bubbles forming that's a leak.
Couple of added notes here. Do NOT use the gaskets that come with the headers. Look into some good quality aftermarket ones. I was recommended Percy's as several member here used them with success. I used their oval port aluminum ones and the driver side lasted a couple days before it blew. Could just be the oval port ones as I think the square ports are what everyone else used. Next is paint for the headers. The paint that comes on them will burn off within 15 minutes leaving them bare. I used Rustoleum high heat paint and primer on mine. Worked well. I also suggest getting new collector bolts as the ones that come with the headers are crap as well. The first time I went to back them out to adjust to fix a leak they snapped. I replaces with grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock washers.
Do NOT use Locktite on any of the bolts. Use some high temp copper RTV on the plugs when you install them so they seal.
As for a high flow cat, with how well the work now, I would use one. They don't restrict the exhaust much at all and cut down emissions. Even if you don't have emissions, there is no need to be self centered by polluting more than you need to.
This is good information here and I like your procedure. I should receive them by Wednesday or Thursday and I will take them to Columbia for Sandblasting then paint them, let them cure for a couple of days and follow your instructions.
I am hopeful that I can get the Grade 8 fasteners from NAPA or O'Reilly unless you have another source. Summit has stud and bolt kit for about $50 although I forget what Grade they are and a Mr. Gasket Exhaust Gasket which is not cheap either.
If you have any sources please let me know.
Thank you so much for all of your help
Take care and Godspeed
Boon
P.S. I will let you know how it comes out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 871
Likes: 6
From: Orcas Island, WA
For a penetrating spray I would recommend PB Blaster, or my favorite, Aerokroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils). I work on boats for a living. Salt water, and salt moisture in the air make fasteners a real chore. Aerokroil has rarely failed for me. I spray it, wait 5 minutes, then try it. If no go, spray again and wait 20 minutes. If still no go, spray again and wait overnight. I've only had it fail me twice in the last 10 years.
Usual disclaimer: No financial interest, just a happy customer, yadda, yadda, yadda.
Oh, and a word to the wise, WD40 is not a penetrating fluid, so don't even bother with it. Save it for cleaning brake dust off your rims.
Usual disclaimer: No financial interest, just a happy customer, yadda, yadda, yadda.
Oh, and a word to the wise, WD40 is not a penetrating fluid, so don't even bother with it. Save it for cleaning brake dust off your rims.
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