Brake Problems
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Brake Problems
Yesterday I went through some shallow water, about 1ft, maybe some more, the drove some more miles (city) and arrived to my destination. A couple of hours later I went home, but the brakes seemed like they were quite sentitive, a little pressure on the pedal would make the truck stop abruptly, it was like that for a while, then they started working like they normally do. This morning I drove to my work, and almost all the way there there was this chirping noise coming from either the bearings or the front brakes, and when I was about to arrive the pedal suddendly lost most of its pressure, and the truck is barely braking. I found the braking fluid is full and there are no obvious leaks, the front pads are new, but they have been quite noisy since I installed them, the shoes are kind of old, but even if those failed I should have more braking power than this. My suspicions are on the Hydroboost or some other part of the Hydraulic brake system. Any ideas guys?.
I'll inspect the shoes just in case, but I don't think they are the cause.
I'll inspect the shoes just in case, but I don't think they are the cause.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Booneville, Missouri
Hello and good morning Encho.
I do not know if this applies but on my 87 2WD I had the same noise and it turned out to be the small clips attached to the inner pads. I purchased a new kit that retains the rotor with a unique way to attach the caliper. There are 2 "bars" if you will (top and bottom) that attaches the caliper and a small spring clip that mounts on the inner pad and this was worn out. I replaced it and the noise stopped.
I do not see how fording water would loosen this clip but check it anyway.
Take care Encho.
Boon
I do not know if this applies but on my 87 2WD I had the same noise and it turned out to be the small clips attached to the inner pads. I purchased a new kit that retains the rotor with a unique way to attach the caliper. There are 2 "bars" if you will (top and bottom) that attaches the caliper and a small spring clip that mounts on the inner pad and this was worn out. I replaced it and the noise stopped.
I do not see how fording water would loosen this clip but check it anyway.
Take care Encho.
Boon
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
Do you have hydroboost on a bronco?
I found on one of my trucks, when I squeezed the pads back, the calipers had a "lifeline" from the old pads.
Once it got passed this spot, it wouldn't return, and left the brakes on.
I wonder if you have the opposite?
Have you pulled the wheels yet to see what's going on?
Another thought, your rubber brake lines could be bad inside, not allowing pressure to get to the calipers.
I found on one of my trucks, when I squeezed the pads back, the calipers had a "lifeline" from the old pads.
Once it got passed this spot, it wouldn't return, and left the brakes on.
I wonder if you have the opposite?
Have you pulled the wheels yet to see what's going on?
Another thought, your rubber brake lines could be bad inside, not allowing pressure to get to the calipers.
Thread Starter
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Any other Ideas?.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Sounds like a problem in your hydroboost system, too much assist then not any.
None might suggest the belt is slipping but you'd loose power assist steering too.
Handy little guide should prove help narrow down the cause (fact you drove thought little bit of water may coincidence may be cause and effect).
| Repair Guides | Brake Operating System | Hydro-boost Ii Brake Booster | AutoZone.com
Note,
HIGH PEDAL EFFORT (IDLE)
BRAKES OVERSENSITIVE
Both fit your symptoms both boil down the same,
Defective Hydro-Boost unit
None might suggest the belt is slipping but you'd loose power assist steering too.
Handy little guide should prove help narrow down the cause (fact you drove thought little bit of water may coincidence may be cause and effect).
| Repair Guides | Brake Operating System | Hydro-boost Ii Brake Booster | AutoZone.com
Note,
HIGH PEDAL EFFORT (IDLE)
BRAKES OVERSENSITIVE
Both fit your symptoms both boil down the same,
Defective Hydro-Boost unit
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
My old calipers actually had a rust line where the piston sits.
When I squeezed the pads back to put the new ones in, it pushed the piston passed this rust line.
The next time I hit the brakes hard, it allowed the rust to hang the piston up.
I very seldom use this truck, it sits a lot. I blame that, and a bad boot in the caliper over the piston
Back to my original question, do you have a hydroboost on your bronco?
If so , is it factory?
I would love to have one on my 94 f 150
When I squeezed the pads back to put the new ones in, it pushed the piston passed this rust line.
The next time I hit the brakes hard, it allowed the rust to hang the piston up.
I very seldom use this truck, it sits a lot. I blame that, and a bad boot in the caliper over the piston
Back to my original question, do you have a hydroboost on your bronco?
If so , is it factory?
I would love to have one on my 94 f 150
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Thread Starter
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
I have the stock braking systems dusty (Charlie), probably got the terms wrong. But I did found the cause because it finally became quite obvious: the rear driver side's cylinder blew it's seal, leaking braking fluid all over the place. I wonder why it took two days to show. Anyway, how do I go about this? clamp the line, replace the cylinder, then purge the wheel?.
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FTE Legend
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From: In my own world
Get a new wheel cyl. Fairly reasonable in price. Usually around $10 - $16 here in my area
Pull the drum. Be very careful, and pull the brake line on the back of the cylinder
If you take the adjuster out of the bottom of the shoes, you can leave the shoes on
Remove the top 2 springs at the top
Push the shoes apart a little at the top
Take the 2 bolts out of the back of the cylinder from the backing plate side.
Wiggle, twist, whatever it takes to get the cylinder out
Clean everything well with a can of brake clean.
Replace the wheel cylinder. Put it all back together
Replace the cylinder on the other side same way, it's the same age
Put your drums back on, and adjust your brakes
Bleed the brakes all the way around until air stops, and the brake fluid is clear
Some people replace the shoes and hardware, but unless the shoes are worn to be near replacement, I don't think I would
If you break a line, You can replace it with a new line, or patch that line.
I did a write up on how to replace and flare a steel brake line a while back
how to replace a brake line
Usually brake lines and parts fail from moisture contamination
Brake fluid is Glycol based, and Glycol absorbs moisture. That is why it turns brown in time.
Maintenance should include bleeding the brakes every once in a while to prevent this, but we all skip that step until we have a problem
Pull the drum. Be very careful, and pull the brake line on the back of the cylinder
If you take the adjuster out of the bottom of the shoes, you can leave the shoes on
Remove the top 2 springs at the top
Push the shoes apart a little at the top
Take the 2 bolts out of the back of the cylinder from the backing plate side.
Wiggle, twist, whatever it takes to get the cylinder out
Clean everything well with a can of brake clean.
Replace the wheel cylinder. Put it all back together
Replace the cylinder on the other side same way, it's the same age
Put your drums back on, and adjust your brakes
Bleed the brakes all the way around until air stops, and the brake fluid is clear
Some people replace the shoes and hardware, but unless the shoes are worn to be near replacement, I don't think I would
If you break a line, You can replace it with a new line, or patch that line.
I did a write up on how to replace and flare a steel brake line a while back
how to replace a brake line
Usually brake lines and parts fail from moisture contamination
Brake fluid is Glycol based, and Glycol absorbs moisture. That is why it turns brown in time.
Maintenance should include bleeding the brakes every once in a while to prevent this, but we all skip that step until we have a problem
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