2008 E250 door hinges
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
2008 E250 door hinges
The driver's door blew open separating door skin from door frame at front fender.
The skin fold/door frame gap is closing with a slide hammer but using the door bolt holes can rammer home.
I see a nut carrier carriage inside the door frame. On the top carrier I see a metal nub holding the carrier in an adjustable position around the frame hole thru which the bolt will go.
The bottom bolt carrier is loose, swinging away from the door frame. That movement leaves enough room for the slide hammer threaded rod and a washer/nut on the inside where the carriage is away....no damage to carrier from slide hammering.
On the top carrier I can see a aluminum bright holding clip toward the carrier's center.
Is that clip the answer to moving the carriage away from the hole ?
Overall then, if slide hammer thru door hinge bolt hole without damaging the nut carrier is possible..
HOW IS THIS DONE ?
-breezy
The skin fold/door frame gap is closing with a slide hammer but using the door bolt holes can rammer home.
I see a nut carrier carriage inside the door frame. On the top carrier I see a metal nub holding the carrier in an adjustable position around the frame hole thru which the bolt will go.
The bottom bolt carrier is loose, swinging away from the door frame. That movement leaves enough room for the slide hammer threaded rod and a washer/nut on the inside where the carriage is away....no damage to carrier from slide hammering.
On the top carrier I can see a aluminum bright holding clip toward the carrier's center.
Is that clip the answer to moving the carriage away from the hole ?
Overall then, if slide hammer thru door hinge bolt hole without damaging the nut carrier is possible..
HOW IS THIS DONE ?
-breezy
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
NO FENDER...DOOR IS OFF and close to repair. The door side surface at hinge areas are same distance off vertical to fold over door skin lip as the frame lip to inside edge door skin fold over.
so the hinge area needs pulling out.
no photo as the gizmo is inside the door frame.
and no image so far in Google Images...also no image for a 2008 front door step.
so the hinge area needs pulling out.
no photo as the gizmo is inside the door frame.
and no image so far in Google Images...also no image for a 2008 front door step.
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I too am having difficulty imagining what you are talking about. I manage a fleet of Ford vans and we have this problem with the wind catching the driver's door and slamming it open beyond the limits. It typically separates the skin from the door and causes the door to bind against the fender. I think that the hinge itself and the body mount point of the hinge are not nearly as affected as the door. I recently replaced a door without tweaking the hinge or the body mount point and the door closes beautifully, and also clears the fender. So I tend to think that the damage is in the door. We have had vans where we just did some prying with the tire iron and got things working acceptably after a wind incident. This may last for years, but eventually the door will develop cracks and tears and become difficult to open and close. Then it's time for a new door. I've actually tried to weld the skin back to the door frame after a wind separation and it seemed to work for a short time, but in the long run it came back apart and we needed to replace the door.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I'm curious why another door wasn't purchased?
Photo-wise I thought you might have something of your actual damage, not something from the web.
From past ownership of a body shop repairing a bolt on part is rarely cost effective. If there's a self-serve salvage yard nearby doors in top condition tend to be relatively cheap and are the better deal, IMHO anyway.
Since I'm assuming you'll also be repainting this damaged door refinishing to color match isn't a downside since it would already be part of this repair.
Photo-wise I thought you might have something of your actual damage, not something from the web.
From past ownership of a body shop repairing a bolt on part is rarely cost effective. If there's a self-serve salvage yard nearby doors in top condition tend to be relatively cheap and are the better deal, IMHO anyway.
Since I'm assuming you'll also be repainting this damaged door refinishing to color match isn't a downside since it would already be part of this repair.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
2008 E250 door hinges
door needs bending out at the hinge section the wind blast blew the metal in bashing against upper front fender.
solution: bash metal back out. Summit shipped a slide hammer kit for $100.
Our location is south west Florida not Chicago or metro NYC. Local shop offers begin at $500. 'Well, we need to ask for more because...' after holding the door for 2 weeks. "no, I don't know how the window was broken...."
Finding a door may cost $200 travel costs.
Besides, its like golf, right ?
on photos: the 'part' holding the door bolt nuts, the adjustable carrier isnot a part per say, the carrier is welded to inside door. So no one removed the carrier for a shoot.
I see a new door arriving for $500 without the nut carriers inside...."No, our doors doahn have nut carriers, never saw one.."
solution: bash metal back out. Summit shipped a slide hammer kit for $100.
Our location is south west Florida not Chicago or metro NYC. Local shop offers begin at $500. 'Well, we need to ask for more because...' after holding the door for 2 weeks. "no, I don't know how the window was broken...."
Finding a door may cost $200 travel costs.
Besides, its like golf, right ?
on photos: the 'part' holding the door bolt nuts, the adjustable carrier isnot a part per say, the carrier is welded to inside door. So no one removed the carrier for a shoot.
I see a new door arriving for $500 without the nut carriers inside...."No, our doors doahn have nut carriers, never saw one.."
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Junior User
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
I too am having difficulty imagining what you are talking about. I manage a fleet of Ford vans and we have this problem with the wind catching the driver's door and slamming it open beyond the limits. It typically separates the skin from the door and causes the door to bind against the fender. I think that the hinge itself and the body mount point of the hinge are not nearly as affected as the door. I recently replaced a door without tweaking the hinge or the body mount point and the door closes beautifully, and also clears the fender. So I tend to think that the damage is in the door. We have had vans where we just did some prying with the tire iron and got things working acceptably after a wind incident. This may last for years, but eventually the door will develop cracks and tears and become difficult to open and close. Then it's time for a new door. I've actually tried to weld the skin back to the door frame after a wind separation and it seemed to work for a short time, but in the long run it came back apart and we needed to replace the door.
yes, the problem is my error. Door bolts came slightly loose following repeat wind blows over 6 years. I found the bolts were not 'loose' but below prevail specs for a 2008 that is bolts/nut/adjusting carrier probably slid over the door surface causing a narrowed door fender gap. When the door blew open, bolts/nuts slide again into a NO GAP position.
I had looked for an adjuster mechanism, did not find one, assumed the door assembly was bent out prior to this final blow open...as the adjuster is in the door unseen.
I have a manual but Ford's manual tends to be incomplete when communicating to the driveway mechanic. The outstanding example of this is an owners manual not directly stating oil change intervals or any oil changing.
Yes, after working to get the door back in, clearly the damage may cause future flexure. A fresh supply of West 6500 is down the road.
Spread a flow into the door skin fold before hammering that lip shut over the newly inserted door frame.
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Junior User
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From: west coast-BC to Baja
With a thin low overcast, we had max diffuse light to see and remove the nut carrier. Camera was an excellent idea but 35mm large.
The door jamb straightens but doesn't directly advance 1 to 1 toward then ? under the door skin fold over.
I now examine possibility banding the jamb back was error that prying skin down then heating the skin lip outward flat then foldn the flattened lip bak over the jamb...? I dunno.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1022344...40424681/DOOR#
band bang bang
try drilling a hole on the lock side then steel barring across to the hinge jamb side ?
The door jamb straightens but doesn't directly advance 1 to 1 toward then ? under the door skin fold over.
I now examine possibility banding the jamb back was error that prying skin down then heating the skin lip outward flat then foldn the flattened lip bak over the jamb...? I dunno.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1022344...40424681/DOOR#
band bang bang
try drilling a hole on the lock side then steel barring across to the hinge jamb side ?
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 4
From: west coast-BC to Baja
new photos
https://picasaweb.google.com/1022344...eat=directlink
2 hinge/jamb pressing plates are maintenance tools for windy areas.
hinges press jamb sheet metal rearward...take a look if the door is moving forward narrowing gap tween fender and door's leading edge.
Soooooooo, before door hits rear fender, take door off, adjusters off, cut n shape carbon steel for each jamb area, bolt n squeeze flat.
With damage here with skin popped off, these plates become shims mounted on body moving the door backwards. I'm having problems moving the jamb forward under the door skin's fold over lip. Theory.....
I expect moving the jamb back under will take a stout rod inserted from lock side door.
I'll try mounting with shims tomorrow.
I had figured the work as either pop rivet skin to door frame leaving skin popped of but in place lengthwise or 'correcting' damage by moving jamb back then forward, flattening jamb/hinge area, straightening dented areas.
go with the pop rivits. life is short....
when your door moves, check bolts and jamb damage under the hinge mounts on the door jamb.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1022344...eat=directlink
2 hinge/jamb pressing plates are maintenance tools for windy areas.
hinges press jamb sheet metal rearward...take a look if the door is moving forward narrowing gap tween fender and door's leading edge.
Soooooooo, before door hits rear fender, take door off, adjusters off, cut n shape carbon steel for each jamb area, bolt n squeeze flat.
With damage here with skin popped off, these plates become shims mounted on body moving the door backwards. I'm having problems moving the jamb forward under the door skin's fold over lip. Theory.....
I expect moving the jamb back under will take a stout rod inserted from lock side door.
I'll try mounting with shims tomorrow.
I had figured the work as either pop rivet skin to door frame leaving skin popped of but in place lengthwise or 'correcting' damage by moving jamb back then forward, flattening jamb/hinge area, straightening dented areas.
go with the pop rivits. life is short....
when your door moves, check bolts and jamb damage under the hinge mounts on the door jamb.
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