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I have a 6.4L 2008 F250 Super Cab with 8' Bed that I currently have 26,000 miles on. I usually only use the truck for towing a 14' work trailer that carries approximately 3,000lbs inside.
Since the trailer is hooked to the truck 24/7, the rear is beginning to have a slight sag. I want to accomplish two things.
1.) Eliminate the sag in the rear from towing the trailer. 95% of miles on the truck are towing the trailer. I have heard that helper springs in the rear would stop the sag?
2.) While eliminating the sag, I want to raise the truck slightly (2-3") overall.
Can someone point me to some suspension companies/components that will allow me to raise the truck without going to a huge lift but also allowing me to eliminate any sag in the rear? I will be keeping my stock 18" Super Duty wheels but most likely adding 295/70/18 tires similar to the Nitto Terra Grapplers.
I have tried to search through these threads and have seen guys either wanting to lift OR stop the sag, not both.
i used newton lifts for my 2" lift. the guy spent over an hour with me on the phone to get all the right info and actually talked me out of a more expensive kit.
4" blocks from an F350 for height over stock, and add one or two add-a-leafs for the sag. Should net you about 4 inches total from where it sits now, meaning 2-3" over where it was new. Either buy an AAL kit, or have a suspension shop cut you a couple to add in. Don't stack rear blocks from a cheap lift kit.
Thanks for the feeback. Do you do any substantial towing with the kit?
i tow quite regularly about 6k. i also plow, and do truck pulls and have never had a bad vibration or any issues for that matter. in the spring im going to be ordering a 3-4 inch lift from them as i dont want to replace my stock snowplow front springs
i have refered 3 friends now to them and all of them have had great things to say. i think i paid like 250 shipped for a 2" front and rear lift
4" blocks from an F350 for height over stock, and add one or two add-a-leafs for the sag. Should net you about 4 inches total from where it sits now, meaning 2-3" over where it was new. Either buy an AAL kit, or have a suspension shop cut you a couple to add in. Don't stack rear blocks from a cheap lift kit.
Thanks. So the 2008 F250 has approximately 2" blocks in the rear from the factory?
What about the front so that the whole truck is higher?
2wd F250s would have had no spacer, 4wd models would have had a 2" spacer. 4wd F350s came with the largest spacer at 4", so throwing that in will net you an actual gain of either 2" or 4" over your factory setup.
Front, assuming 4wd buy 2.5" lift coils. You can run tophat or lower perch spacers (I ran lower spacers), but at the end of the day you're looking at a decent chunk of change ($300+) once you add in new shocks, so save the money and spend the extra $200 to do coils instead of spacers. It will ride better in the long run. Check out Bilstein 5100 shocks to put on after the lift instead of whatever the lift kit companies are selling these days. At just 2" (or a little less from the weight of the diesel) you shouldn't need anything but shocks and an alignment (saving you a lot of cash, because going over about 2.5 inches gets expensive fast), and if you do +4" on the back it should still sit level or slightly raked with a trailer and not nose high.
If you have a 2wd, run a bolt in set of lower perch spacers, and look into buying a set of dual axis camber bushings to fix your alignment.
When calculating what size blocks you want keep in mind that stock F250 blocks are 1 7/8" tall and F350 blocks are 3 5/8" tall
i ran a spacer on my front shock to drop it 1" and had no issues until i replaced them with rough country 3" lift shocks. the newton lift kit comes with the spacers, track bar relocation spacers, brake like relocation brackets and carrier bearing drop bracket. it was a very complete kit for the price