Dad's Alternator Dilemma
#61
Here's some threads from the elec forum. Way too involved for me, but some people like fiddling with this stuff.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tall-help.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...terminals.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tall-help.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...terminals.html
#62
Some comments on some of the stuff I've seen in this thread:
An alternator that produces current at a stand-still would literally defy the laws of physics. Not happening.
I would think the DCR of the windings would contribute to maximum output rating in addition to the rectifier current capability. I have also seen some cases of higher-output alternators adding a fourth diode pair to the rectifier bridge (noted for completeness).
Saying something "conducts better" is ambiguous because that doesn't target any specific metric. All diodes are effectively a short once forward biased, limited only by the power dissipation of the junction itself. Schottky diodes do have a lower forward drop, which is why they're popular in switching regulators, where semiconductor losses impact efficiency. However, that comes at the cost of higher reverse leakage current and a more gentle-sloping IV curve (meaning there is not as distinct as an "on" vs. "off" point as standard PN diodes). You could say they conduct "too much" I guess.
I don't see what that has to do with this discussion. All diodes, regardless of type, have a maximum forward current rating (typically specified in continuous, and pulsed).
100% correct. A lot of people get confused on this.
I don't see what that has to do with this discussion. All diodes, regardless of type, have a maximum forward current rating (typically specified in continuous, and pulsed).
100% correct. A lot of people get confused on this.
#63
Bruno - Looks like your pulley will fit right on as my measurements are all within .010" of yours. The main issue, in my mind, is if the outer two grooves are actually the same size since from the picture it looks to me like the one on the right may be shorter than the middle one. Perhaps you could do as Jim suggested and measure the circumference? Or, we could measure when you come over to powder coat it. In any event, I believe that proves that the pulleys will interchange, and I know the one on Ray's 302 has the outer grooves the same size. So, the salvage should have some to pick from, although if your pulley doesn't have the two grooves the same then the one on the 351HO they have may not either.
Dave - Those links appear to be exactly what I was looking for. Maybe I can find a Ford fuse box that I can use to run the alternator through as well as to house the headlight relays. And, I know a good place to put it since I won't have the 1G regulator anymore.
fmc - Bruno was joking on the generation at idle, as he said when I commented on that. You just have to know him, and me for that matter, as we tend to poke fun at the other. But your point is taken on the operation for the regulator - it targets voltage and has no way of knowing the current the alternator is throwing.
Dave - Those links appear to be exactly what I was looking for. Maybe I can find a Ford fuse box that I can use to run the alternator through as well as to house the headlight relays. And, I know a good place to put it since I won't have the 1G regulator anymore.
fmc - Bruno was joking on the generation at idle, as he said when I commented on that. You just have to know him, and me for that matter, as we tend to poke fun at the other. But your point is taken on the operation for the regulator - it targets voltage and has no way of knowing the current the alternator is throwing.
#64
Depending on what amp you are using some "200W" amps will idle at 10amps(no sound or very low audio) from the battery!
Now days with class D amps(more $$$ ones) idle current is a moot point.
I ran my audio system(800W total in my 85 Caravelle) from a stock Chrysler 65Amp alternator just fine. The lights would dim at higher levels but I never had any problems till I got a kid in the back seat.....and removed the system due to her.
#65
I'm going with a Retrosounds 8100 that is 100 watts RMS/200 watts max. Pulls 400 ma at idle. Supposed to be fused @ 10 amps. Not all that much, really.
#67
#68
Don't worry about the # as I won't be able to see a # on one that is mounted until I pull it. But, I can sure measure it before pulling. So, if yours has the outer two grooves the same and if the inner groove is close to the diameter of mine then I think I'm good. Could you measure them?
#69
Yes, probably Friday I will measure them. My shop is 5 miles from the house and that is where it is.I was going to Redbox last night so I just ran by the shop to get pics and measurements for you. I should have brought it home with me.
When I was looking at the pics this morning it appeared that one of the two front grooves was bigger than the other. I looked at the pulley at the shop this morning and it appears one is for a wider belt? The front one looks wider.
When I was looking at the pics this morning it appeared that one of the two front grooves was bigger than the other. I looked at the pulley at the shop this morning and it appears one is for a wider belt? The front one looks wider.
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