Dave - wouldn't I be able to buy a replacement for Ryan's (RJM) unit anywhere? It attaches and connects like all the stock ones.

As for electric fans, I haven't seriously considered them, but will. I was just wanting to go with enough alternator that I could if I chose to do so.

 

Ryan's alternator is a stock 130A unit with the stronger rectifier that I posted above.
There's nothing different about the case, windings or regulator/brushes.

 

This doesn't make sense to me. A diode is going to keep doing it's job till it burns up. And they usually put in devices that are rated beyond the design limit of whatever they are installed in. I don't know how putting larger diodes in a alternator is going to make it have more output. But maybe I am missing something. Here's a paper I ran across on the internet. He says on page 2 of the pdf in the paragraph in the upper left corner that the output of a alternator is limited by the heat in the windings and the saturation of the windings.

http://itee.uq.edu.au/~aupec/aupec04.../PaperID82.pdf

That makes more sense to me. That's how my old buzz box A/C stick welder controls the amps for welding. They run the welder in saturation anytime you are welding. The amp control is just a block of iron that moves in and out of the transformer in the welder. If you want more amps, you are moving the block of iron more into the transformer field, and this increases the amperage the transformer can pass before it saturates.

 

I've been wondering about that myself. Might the regulator watch the voltage drop across the diodes and adjust accordingly? I'm not sure, but I think the typical .7 volt drop goes up a bit toward the upper limit if the diode's capability. I think.

 

Even a 130 will put out 160, (or more) but it won't do it for long.
The diodes fail long before the windings do.

130A is a reliability rating, not a setting.
The regulator sets the alternator to put out (whatever) current needed to keep the system at its set point (14.35V?)

 

Which would explain why Ryan rates them at 160 with the new diodes and little, if any, else. I still lean to getting one of those from him at the same time I get the stuff for making the various cables. And, I'll get the fuse holder, fuse, and 3G connector set.

Ok, now the question is where to get the crank pulley. I had a brainstorm and looked at Ray's '86 F150 w/an EFI'd 302 which is sitting out back. Voila! Both of the crank pulley's front sheaves are the same size - 8". So, back to Dad's engine and I find that the pulley is 8 7/16" on the front sheave and 8 1/8" on the middle sheave. So, Ford set the little 302 up to spin the accessories a bit slower at the same RPM than the 351M, which is obvious as the 302 is going to turn faster in most conditions so they compensated. I wonder if that'll be a problem with the A/C if I use a 302 pulley? Shouldn't be with the alternator since the 3G will put out more at lower RPM than the 1G.

But, I thought I'd go to the catalog and see if I could figure out which pulleys each engine uses. I've pages from the catalog for the 302, W, & M/400 because I'm not sure I understand what I'm reading. One reason is that they show a 2 and a 4 sheave pulley on the 302 when Ray's has a 3 sheave pulley. Anyway, I read the pages to say that Ray's 86 302 with factory air would take D5DZ 6A312-A. But I also see that the same pulley fits a carb'd W w/factory air, as well as an M or 400 with factory air. But, the one I see on Ray's truck is different than the two I have for M's! What am I missing?

One good thing from that, though, seems to be that the bolt pattern stayed the same. So, if I could figure out what pulley Ray's truck has - which I can do when it warms up.

 

They probably made the pulley smaller because the 302 is so gutless at low rpm's.
Not to reduce the accessory rpm's at redline.

How much time do most vehicles spend at redline???

 

I figured it was because you have to gear the mouse motor down to get it to pull, so the R's go way up. Same difference.

Anyway, Bruno says he has Jr's pulley, which is off an upside-down M, so I've asked if the outer grooves are the same size. If so, it may be as easy as picking up one of those at the salvage since the catalogue suggests one pulley fits all.

 

I will have to go to the shop and measure them. It is out there already pulled and ready to go to the PC emporium. I think one of the crank pulleys you have out there is for a W Gary. I cant figure out how you would have 2 M's. I will snap a pic of the part # as well. Are you measuring the OD of the pulley or the ID where the belt lays in the groove?

On another note, BIGGREEN350 needs an idler/tensioner for a W which is the same one as an M I believe. If you see an extra one of those laying around up in the loft put it somewhere it can be retrieved at a later date if you would.

 

I have two for an M 'cause I have two M's - Dad's truck and Rusty. No W's save for the red EFI'd chicken coop out back. And, I'm measuring the outside of the pulley. The one on Dad's engine I've been able to measure pretty accurately since it is sitting on the stand, but the one on Ray's truck isn't quite as easy. Still, I think I got a pretty good measurement - at least w/in 1/16".

As for the idler, I think I have one, but it is one I'd planned on experimenting with. Remember Brad's suggestion to make the idler run on the back of the belt so I get more wrap? I'm planning to use that idler to figure out how to do that. I may be able to find a pulley that works that way, but I think I'll have to make it. Maybe a "billet" one out of aluminum? Polish it up and PC it?

 

By the way, I just went back to Page 1 to look at the pictures again to see how the idler sits in there, and realized that I'd missed Jerry/Ozark1's comment. Sorry Jerry. But I do agree with you that the 160 amp is the way to go.

 

I thought you meant you had 2 loose in the shop.

 

He is probably using Schottky diodes as the rectifiers. They conduct much faster/better than other diodes.


quoted from good ole Wiki site:"......When current flows through a diode there is a small voltage drop across the diode terminals. A normal silicon diode has a voltage drop between 0.6–0.7 volts, while a Schottky diode voltage drop is between approximately 0.15–0.45 volts. This lower voltage drop can provide higher switching speed and better system efficiency......."

 

Ok, here is the "W" crank pulley and it's dimensions live in concert:


This is the OD which is jus shy of 8"


Here is a side view to show that the 2 outside sheaves are the same size

 

Here is the center bore diameter:
08E.Z whatever that is.