Air Conditoning
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Loveland, CO.
Air Conditoning
I think it works fine in a vehicle that was designed for it. But it does not work as well in a retrofitted vehicle. It works pretty good, but not as good as the R12. I am not sure if it is true that a bigger condensor would help, but it makes sense. It would help with cooling the Freon and also add to the system's total Freon capacity.
I remember working on cars in the 80's and taking apart AC components, we just yanked the hose and let the stuff fly out. We didn't know it was so bad.
I remember working on cars in the 80's and taking apart AC components, we just yanked the hose and let the stuff fly out. We didn't know it was so bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Air Conditoning
Just FYI:
"Freon" is DuPont's name for R-12 & R-22. The name for R-134a is "SUVA".
A larger condenser helps a little (for the same reason it would help with ANY refrigerant), but Ford put SUVA in '94-96 F-Series & Broncos, so you can make yours perform just like it was OE by using the same parts as Ford.
"Freon" is DuPont's name for R-12 & R-22. The name for R-134a is "SUVA".
A larger condenser helps a little (for the same reason it would help with ANY refrigerant), but Ford put SUVA in '94-96 F-Series & Broncos, so you can make yours perform just like it was OE by using the same parts as Ford.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Loveland, CO.
Air Conditoning
I wasn't sure if the new stuff was called "freon" or not.
Did Ford use the same components in the 94-96? Or is it a larger condensor, etc? My 95 F150 had nice cold a/c.
My Bronc's AC works pretty good with R134A, it has to work harder than in a regular cab p/u truck with dark tinted windows. The vents in the Bronc are so far away from the driver, and it has such a large space to cool that it takes a little while to cool off the truck.
Actually, the dashboard in general is pretty far away from the driver in a Bronco. I used to wonder why a car stereo would have a remote control, but in a Bronco I use the remote for my stereo all the time to control it.
Did Ford use the same components in the 94-96? Or is it a larger condensor, etc? My 95 F150 had nice cold a/c.
My Bronc's AC works pretty good with R134A, it has to work harder than in a regular cab p/u truck with dark tinted windows. The vents in the Bronc are so far away from the driver, and it has such a large space to cool that it takes a little while to cool off the truck.
Actually, the dashboard in general is pretty far away from the driver in a Bronco. I used to wonder why a car stereo would have a remote control, but in a Bronco I use the remote for my stereo all the time to control it.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Loveland, CO.
Air Conditoning
A larger condensor is not a requirement. I would not spend the money on one. You don't need it. It was just a thought.
As far as the conversion to R134a, the components needed vary by the vehicle, but include changing the o-rings and a complete flush and evacuation of the system. You can buy a kit for your truck that includes everything you need.
From what I can tell on your posts though, your ac seems to be working properly, except for your vent problem. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
As far as the conversion to R134a, the components needed vary by the vehicle, but include changing the o-rings and a complete flush and evacuation of the system. You can buy a kit for your truck that includes everything you need.
From what I can tell on your posts though, your ac seems to be working properly, except for your vent problem. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Air Conditoning
The conversion cost depends on how you do it; you can buy a "conversion kit" from most auto parts stores for about $35. This kit typically contains a set of fitting adapters, a can of oil, 2-3 cans of R134a, and a can tap. If you want to change out the accumulator and the orifice tube, which is a good idea in my opinion, AutoZone wants $28-37 for the accumulator, depending on the hose attaching mechanism. The orifice tube runs you $1.69. You'll need a vacuum pump to evacuate the system, and I haven't found a parts store yet that loans these; you'll need to find a buddy that does A/C work. If you're really not equipped to do A/C work, perhaps you should swap all the parts, then head to a shop to have them flush and charge the system for you to ensure that there are no leaks and to minimize moisture and old lubricant contamination.
AutoZone (I refer to them b/c they've got all their parts online, not because I'm crazy about their parts) does use a different condensor for pre-'94 and '94-96, so I'm assuming that you'll get the larger condensor if you specify the later year. They want $148 for the later condensor.
Most of the guys in the shop where I used to work recommended adding an electric fan when doing R134a conversions to compensate for the old, small condensors.
AutoZone (I refer to them b/c they've got all their parts online, not because I'm crazy about their parts) does use a different condensor for pre-'94 and '94-96, so I'm assuming that you'll get the larger condensor if you specify the later year. They want $148 for the later condensor.
Most of the guys in the shop where I used to work recommended adding an electric fan when doing R134a conversions to compensate for the old, small condensors.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Air Conditoning
thank you very much.
one last question, where can i find the cable for the door that goes form the insde door handle to the the latching mechanism. Ford does not sell just the cable and the unit they sell is $ 80.00 plus tax, all i need is the cable.
one last question, where can i find the cable for the door that goes form the insde door handle to the the latching mechanism. Ford does not sell just the cable and the unit they sell is $ 80.00 plus tax, all i need is the cable.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Air Conditoning
Check the junkyards for the door cable.
The condenser, evaporator, compressor, lines, accumulator, & blower are the same for Freon or SUVA - the only change is the orifice tube, but any time you open the system, you should change the accumulator/drier.
O-rings after ~'90 are compatible with SUVA, so it's not necessary to change them unless you have an older truck or you think they might leak.
The right way to make the conversion is to evacuate any remaining Freon, open EVERY fitting, and pour in some oil flush. Then blow out as much of the old oil & flush as possible with compressed air. (I put it back together with the old accumulator and do a leak test, and remove the old one.) Put it all back together with some oil in each of the 4 major components and install the new accumulator JUST before you seal it up and pull a vacuum. If it holds ~28" of vacuum for at least 30min, charge it until the low side is ~28psi and the high is ~275psi.
The condenser, evaporator, compressor, lines, accumulator, & blower are the same for Freon or SUVA - the only change is the orifice tube, but any time you open the system, you should change the accumulator/drier.
O-rings after ~'90 are compatible with SUVA, so it's not necessary to change them unless you have an older truck or you think they might leak.
The right way to make the conversion is to evacuate any remaining Freon, open EVERY fitting, and pour in some oil flush. Then blow out as much of the old oil & flush as possible with compressed air. (I put it back together with the old accumulator and do a leak test, and remove the old one.) Put it all back together with some oil in each of the 4 major components and install the new accumulator JUST before you seal it up and pull a vacuum. If it holds ~28" of vacuum for at least 30min, charge it until the low side is ~28psi and the high is ~275psi.
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