Hey all I am in the middle of taking this trans out have both drive lines down, cross member out...just need to remove that dust cover to access TC bolts.
I cannot get those stupid bolts out for the life of me. I can't even find a socket to fit them right. 10 mil was the closest but almost like 9.5 mm would be best...every SAE socket I have is wrong but I have every size, even /32 sizes. Not only that but they are ON there really really snug and I cannot break them loose. I am about to get a vice grip and do it that way.
Anybody have any suggestions on those?
Other than that, the trans has been no problem. I can even see where I wont have much issue getting to the top bell housing bolts because I have a couple of extensions for my impact.
Thanks again guys

 

yeah im pretty sure they're 10mm.just use the grips then replace them with new ones latter.

 

Ok now, do I HAVE to remove flywheel/TC nuts our can I slide trans back then get them.
I ask because I got one out but the next one the stud is spinning and is impossible to get to the back side to put a wrench on the other side I think.

Thank you

 

10mm? I have never run into a metric bolt on a Ford. Lol. I am pretty sure you can leave that in. Just makes it harder and more likely you'll damage something.

 

You could yea pull the trans leaving the TC on the flywheel but it not going to gain you a whole lot of room doing so, will need to remove the nuts to get it off before or after the fact.

Stud shouldn't be spinning? studs are welded to the TC no backside to get too, unless that's not what you mean?

If it is spinning and you can not remove the nut? you'll have to cut the stud and nut off so you can remove it, replace the TC.

 

This is why I START with removing the bolts he is talking about. He as removed all the things holding that still it sounds like. So it will spin. Throw heat at it. It will come loose easy.

 

Transmission is metric. "metric" is stamped on the pan
Never run into metric on these trucks? Mine is like half sae half metric. 10mm is the closest fit. I have every size socket known to man up to 1" and several over that

You have to remove the dust cover to remove those nuts...at least, that gives you the best access. Removing everything else has nothing to do with why that stud is spinning...there is nothing else holding that stud in the TC other than the fact that it is a stud

 

Yeah I didn't think it should spin either but when I had a socket on the nut it turned and turned and turned to no avail. I thought the stud was part of the TC so I know it shouldn't be spinning...but, it spins fairly easily.

I'll just pull the trans back and figure out how to get that flywheel off once the trans is out and I have better access

I was planning for the worse case...front seal and TC
Btw I got the dust cover of by using a cutoff wheel

 

Got the transmission down. Looks like it is the front seal. I took some pics but not sure if you can see in the pictures. It looks like there was fluid build up around the bottom of the seal. The TC looks good from what I can tell however, I still am not able to remove it!!!
So, that stud that I thought was spinning earlier is NOT spinning. The stud is staying put but the nut is just spinning on the stud like it was stripped upon installation (thank you very much).
So, I know the trans will be a bear to install with the TC bolted to flywheel still so I am doing my best to remove it without damaging it because I think it is good.
I say that because the trans was shifting good and downshifting good before. It shifted hard once the fluid got low but....whatever.
So I shot compressed air through external cooler and lines and got good flow however I think there was some blockage. That probably was the cause of the seal going bad initially, that and the truck sat for over a year before I got it. Who knows when the last time it got to Op Temp.
So, what do y'all think about the TC? Leave it? Try to remove but then what if I can't get it?
Thank you!!!

 

Downloaded these photos from my photobucket so you might have to click on it a couple, three times to get it to the original, large size to actually see it. Sorry! Thanks again gents

 

I wouldn't leave it, nut spinning on stud (I wondered about that, thought you seen the stud spinning) anyway run another nut down to that one then tack weld it two sides to the nut that just spins.
Use second nut welded to first to retrieve it, you can only hope its the nut no damage to stud but won't know until you get it off. Other option is split the nut with a nut splitter from two sides, split on one side then again directly opposite first remove both halfs. Best bet to guarantee don't damage existing threads the stud has left.

Once you get it off then you can decide what to do about it if find the stud is stripped.

If only stripped where that nut is but the remainder of the treads are good you could buy double tall nuts at the hardware store or double nut each location. You wouldn't want to double nut just that one stud, yea one little nut doesn't weigh much but best to keep weigh on rotating parts equal. Double nut that one do the same for the stud straight across from it or all of them.

That is if the stud remains usable and you're confident its worth reusing, you know its good. IIRC read somewhere (baumann perhaps) you can often tell one thats been massively overheated by simply looking at it. Look it over good look for signs of overheating, any signs of bluing of the metal and even bulging. Bulging part you'd probably need a know good one to compare it too, unless bulged out one side pretty bad.

 

Yeah I suppose I ASSUMED (oops) that the stud was spinning since I had a socket on it. Once I got a wrench on it I could see the stud staying put while I turned the nut.
I will run another nut down on it, secure it to the other nut and try turning them off as a set. Good advice on putting double nut on all of them because just my luck it would make JUST enough vibration to really ruin something important (bearings, bushing, seals etc...)
I don't have another TC on hand to compare it to but I do know what this particular one is supposed to look like so Ill give it a good inspection and hope for the best!!!
Thank you Dan

 

Cut the nut with a dremel or similar tool if you need to.

 

Ok, so as far as getting a new front pump seal....I have done some research and have read that the viton seal is superior to the stock silicon seal. So, I have been shopping around and the part number for that viton seal is 36070G....I called the local autoparts store and they have the 36070 (no G). Can anyone tell me if this is the same thing if I need to find one with that exact part number? I know sometimes the last or first digit of a part number is supplier specific and it is the "basic" number that is important. ---DISREGARD, I just looked up that part number and it is the same just without the flange. I want a flange---
What do yall think?
Thank you for helping me through this.
Oh and Dan...I inspected the TC this morning and it appeared to be in great shape. No groove from seal, no signs of hot spots, warping etc...

 

Ok, just went online to Napa and found their part # 19966. It looks like the one everyone is talking about. It is listed as Polyacrylate Nitrate seals....some such thing in the description says it has a higher temperature and friction rating than silicon...sounds like the right stuff there maynard.
Ok, so tomorrow is deer hunting, go get part, install and try to find a transmission jack somewhere so I can re install that bad boy