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The hits just keep on coming with this truck, both minor and major.
Some of you may remember my thread on battery replacement a couple weeks ago. Well, now I've got a different problem.
Lately, when I cold start the truck and drive it, it stumbles and runs like the engine is missing until it warms up. So, I did a little research and decided, before I posted, I'd check the FICM voltage.
The instructions in the tech folder say to unbolt the coolant reservoir and "...move it forward and to the right" and that it was not necessary to remove any hoses. Not happening on my truck. I can move it about 2-3" forward but it will not go to either side. Consequently, I'm unable to access the inspection plate on the FICM.
So, once more I ask the brains of FTE, What am I doing wrong here?
Start at 1:10 of this video, you do need to disconnect one hose. And, you will need a second person to help with testing. Also. put a piece of tape around the probe to help keep from shorting it against the case of the FICM. When you have the probe in place, have the other person turn on the key. A FICM can go from 30v to 48v in about 10 seconds. It takes longer than that to go from cab to probe FICM and you might miss this issue.
There should be two small bolts that hold the degas bottle in place from the topside? If you need, you can remove the two thin hoses coming in and move them out of the way and it should allow you to wiggle the bottle and move it pretty easily. I changed the FICM this way without removing the bottle entirely.
Start at 1:10 of this video, you do need to disconnect one hose. And, you will need a second person to help with testing. Also. put a piece of tape around the probe to help keep from shorting it against the case of the FICM. When you have the probe in place, have the other person turn on the key. A FICM can go from 30v to 48v in about 10 seconds. It takes longer than that to go from cab to probe FICM and you might miss this issue.
Ok, that's what I thought. Tech folder said I didn't have to remove any hoses, though I'm not sure my coolant bottle will slide as far forward as is shown in the video. I'll try it again tomorrow. Thanks.
Yeah, it requires draining coolant amd then disconnection the tube under, but the vent line on top can stay connected with the cap on so you can flop it up or over onto the engine.
Ok. Disconnecting that one hose made all the difference. Checked the voltage and it was a consistent 48.4v during the entire test.
I put Hot Shots Secret in at last oil change in May. What could be causing the stumbling? Only seems to happen when the truck is cold. Warmed it up this morning for 15 minutes before driving this morning and it ran fine.
If it was reflashed in 2012 it's got the latest flash. As you said, you have no idea what the PO did. You're only recourse is to take it to a competent 6.0 TECH and have a power balance test run when it's cold.
If it was reflashed in 2012 it's got the latest flash. As you said, you have no idea what the PO did. You're only recourse is to take it to a competent 6.0 TECH and have a power balance test run when it's cold.
Have you code scanned the truck?
No idiot light so I assumed it hadn't thrown a code. If I'm incorrect about that I can have it checked tomorrow.
Hot shot secret sucked for me, didn't do anything. I kind of sound like a broken record but archoil 9100 works great. If u can remove the varnish off the spool valves it's not a band aide fix.