Let me start off by saying that I have driven my truck like this for 4 years and just drive around this issues so it's not urgent but I would love to be able to fix it if anyone has any knowledge as to what the issue my be. When my trans is in reverse for more than say the length of my driveway (Jason, how long is my driveway?) when I put it back into drive it does not want to go forward. Same thing if it's in neutral too long. It only started off doing this is R then about a year later started doing it in N and P as well. Before I learned I could back a shorter distance into my front yard and then hit D real quick and go I would have to unhook the batteries to "reset the computer"? Then I could start all over and drive it. Once I learned how to drive around it it's not too hard. Most days if it starts to try to do it I can drop it down into 2nd, turn off OD and it will lundge little bits until it fixes itself (does not take but minute to do this), then I just turn back on OD and put it in D and go. The only real hassle to this process is when I am sitting in line to get my kids from school I have to leave the truck in D and keep my foot on the brake or in the winter if I would like to warm the truck before the kids get in, I cant because I can't leave it in park. I used to use the emergency brake BUT accidentally broke it and have not replaced it yet. All thoughts welcome. Oh and I am NOT going to buy a new trans until the bitter end because this trans works great when the truck is going. My gut really says this is some sort of electrical or sensor issue?

 

That is very strange!

It sounds like it might be a computer/wiring/electrical issue.

I am no automatic trans guru guy at all. But I have heard more than a few people have problems with the servos/solenoids sticking in the transmission. From what I remember these servos/solenoids are in a pretty easily removed smaller valve bodies in the trans just under the transmission oil pan.

The best person to get some insight from would be Mark Kovlowski (spelling?) here on FTE. He knows these transmissions better than any of us and I am sure could tell you exactly what is going on. It quite possibly might have to be hooked up to a computer to see what the computer is seeing when this problem ocures.

 

We can put AE on it, but I have no idea what to look at!

The trans shifted pretty good with maybe a little hesitation/hunting for gears at WOT getting on the interstate.

They have clearly figured out how to work around this problem - but what a PITA!!! I asked her to post it here, hoping someone would know what to do!! It is a 2001, if that matters?

My guess was solenoid/servo issue, but I paid for a BTS so I wouldnt have to learn about automagic transmissions....

 

It is definitely NOT an electrical/computer issue. No way. The engagement into drive and reverse is done hydraulically, not electronically. Even if all the electronics are disconnected from the trans it will still move forward and backwards.

Resetting the computer does nothing. There is nothing in the computer that resets when you disconnect the batteries. I think what is happening there is you are giving it time to do whatever is happening in the trans.

The first thing to check is the shift linkage. Lay on the floor on the driver's side looking up the steering column. There are two Torx head bolts that attach the shift linkage. They are known to loosen and cause problems.

If that doesn't fix it the next step is to put a pressure gauge in the line pressure tap on the driver's side of the trans. You need a 0-350 PSI gauge with a 1/8" NPT thread. Record the pressure idling in park, reverse, neutral, and drive. The next step depends on what the pressure readings are.

 

Thank you SO much. I will check it out.

 

Subscribed....

 

I did think of the loose linkage but thought that would be a pretty obvious problem.

 

Is there a good mechanic you could recommend to look at these issues? We are in South Ga but I am willing to take it anywhere in the South East to have the trans fixed correctly.

 

I would seriously take it to BTS in Arkansas. The best you can get and with a lifetime warranty. Dont waste your money on local builders because you will get screwed. They dont know these trannys like BTS. Im sure Jason could tell you about it.

 

The closest place that I know to you is Ocala, FL. PM me if you want their contact info.

BTS can build you a very stout trans. It will cost several thousand more than a standard rebuild, but it will stand up to a very highly modified engine. He also has a several month backlog. So if you want to race your truck and are willing to wait a few months that's probably a good choice.

 

As Pitcrw mentioned BTS is in Arkansas and you have to make an appointment which is usually weeks/months out. You are also talking about a $4200+ investment in a BTS tranny, so I would first do what Mark says just in case it is something that can be fixed relatively easy on the cheap. Not hat getting a BTS would be a bad thing, it is something I hope to do some day, but if I didn't have to come off that money and spend the time driving to Lead Hill, Ar., I wouldn't.

 

Sorry Mark, we were posting at the same time.

 

Sounds like a candidate for a new valve body.

 

Yes, the two things I thought of was valve body issues...the other was the TPS. Mark K...do you think the TPS could cause this issue?

 

Just gonna throw my thoughts in...

If you have to have it replaced, get yourself an HD4R100. They're stronger than what came with truck and just keep going. I've had one in my 7.3 Excursion for 7 years and 263K and knock on wood, it hasn't missed a beat yet.

Carry on....