Wont Start....Need HELP!!!!!!!

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Nov 14, 2013 | 11:09 PM

#16

mhoefer

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Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 4,424

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From: BC Canada

You need to verify the pump is working, and the flow is getting to the secondary filter. If you have no codes, I don't know what else to tell you. You can try taking it apart, but if you don't have something right to go by, make sure you check the tech folder for the blue spring and follow the instructions exactly. If you had the ability to verify fuel pressure at the test port this wouldn't be necessary, but you don't from your responses. You need to look at what rusty suggested too, he has some great suggestions to follow up on as well.

Nov 15, 2013 | 05:40 AM

#17

npccpartsman

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Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 15,369

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From: Stuttgart, Ar

One thing you said in the other thread is that the truck is VERY cold natured and you had to plug it in to start. That leads me to believe you had other issues to begin with. HPOP leak or FICM maybe?

Just an FYI--holding the fuel pedal to the floor has absolutely no affect on starting the truck. It's fly by wire and all electronically controlled.

You also mentioned that you're using a tuner to read codes? What kind of tuner and have you tried returning the truck to stock, which would erase all codes, or have you disconnected the batteries which would also erase codes? How's the cranking speed?

Nov 15, 2013 | 07:26 AM

#18

mustang_309

Logistics Pro

Joined: Dec 2004

Posts: 4,138

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From: South Weber, Utah

When i did my blue spring i had to cycle the key for 4 full pump cycles ( 20 seconds each ) to get the fuel pressure up and get the air out. Did you install the oring that goes between the black bushing and the fuel filter housing ( that is if your truck uses the black bushing, my 06' did not ) and did you make sure the old orings were removed including the one that goes on the white plastic air bleed orifice?

Nov 15, 2013 | 10:39 AM

#19

Blacksheep331

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Joined: Nov 2013

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Ok, I took the cap off and filter out. Had someone turn the key on while I watched the fuel. It filled up in about 5 seconds but the batteries are also weak. So that might be a factor.

And I'm new to the working on disels thing so I have no clue what HPOP is and I'm assuming FICM is the Fuel Injection Control Module? Which I have no clue where it is or how to test.

It's a SCT tuner and cranking speed is normal. I have disconnected both battery's recently so that would explain no codes.

Nov 15, 2013 | 11:05 AM

#20

Blacksheep331

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Ok I read the FICM test thread, awesome right up btw, and I'll test it today, unless anybody else has another suggestion. It seems pretty straight forward so I shouldn't have a issue. Just getting on the correct bolt.

Nov 15, 2013 | 12:10 PM

#21

dennis55

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Joined: Jul 2001

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Hard start

Mine just had that issue but the check gauge light was coming on when idling and the oil pressure gauge would drop to the bottom. Turns out it was the high pressure oil pump (assuming that has effect on injectors). Of course with the light coming on at idle they were able to pull codes.

Mine would start if I held gas to floor (which didn't make sense to me either), but it would die in a second after the first start. After that it would start and continue running even with oil pressure gauge showing zero. I was told that was a stuck valve that is used at idle to cause gauge to show normal pressure even at 10% pressure. It showed normal pressure once I ran the rpm's up a little.

Bottom line 2,200 and some change.

Waiting for them to call me so I can get back to lease and watch some more bucks chasing does and being stupid (BANG).

OK, got truck back and they replaced the ICP and HPOP. Runs like a charm (always did really) and starts easy again. The oil pressure gauge does not show low pressure when idling anymore. Made it to deer lease with no further problems!!!!

Nov 18, 2013 | 11:33 PM

#22

Blacksheep331

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Ok, so I finally tested the FICM today and here's what I found.... With both batteries at 12.7 volts, EOKO voltage was 47. However when we turned the engine over it dropped to a staggering 20 volts, I thought it was a false reading and hooked up a battery charger just to make sure the batteries were staying at full voltage throughout the entire test and it read 20v again.... So clearly that's a problem. My question is.... Is there anything else that would cause it to read that "normal" in a EOKO situation then drop that low when we try to crank it? If not, what is the best way to go about fixing it? Buy a new one, is there a way to have it reflashed by Ford, etc...?

Nov 18, 2013 | 11:38 PM

#23

jswartz84

Cargo Master

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 2,723

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From: Roseburg, OR

You can send it off to Ed at ficmrepair.com and he will fix you up better then new. Or you can try to fix it yourself, instructions are in the tech folder.