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First it is a 2000 7.3 truck acted up and wouldn't start noticed Lpop was leaking so I was Certain that was it so after replacing that still no fire before I proceed foward I checked the housing for scars or groves and didn't see any but I'm not ruling out the housing. Next I primed the system by putting oil directly into the hpop and it fired so I thought that was it so after I let it sit for a hour did it again could the oil be leaking down
Next I replaced the hpop oil sensor no fire next I replaced the icp sensor no fire and the fuel filter no fire
Fuel pump is coming on and I took the line of to check flow did. It check pressure please help
I also live in Sarasota Florida even though it's not cold I still tried plugging her in no fire also I unplugged the icp sensor to give it the automated reading no fire
Also less then a month ago I replaced the injector control module because it left me stranded on the high way could this be the problem truck has 165,000 miles
The only way for the HPOP reservoir to leak down is via a crack in the front cover or the incorrect HPOP gasket.
A scan tool is your best friend right now....
Here are the requirements for the engine to start:
PCM must see RPM signal-about 100 rpm min (CPS)
PCM must think ICP is at least 500 psi....unplugging the sensor defaults to around 700 ish...
Voltage while cranking must be around 10 volts minimum...some engines start with less but most won't.
Injector Pulse Width must be greater than 0.6. PW of zero means the PCM and IDM are not in sync. PW of 0.6 means the modules are in sync and the PCM is waiting for the other conditions to be met before firing the injectors
My friend has a diesel scan tool nice one he owns a towing company anything else I should look 4
Here is a well written guide for hard start and no start conditions.
With a good scan tool you can tell if the PCM is evening trying to fire the injectors and that will lead you down the necessary path for troubleshooting.
Did you go with a Melling LPOP or a OEM? The OEM must be installed a certain way....the Melling can go either way. Until you get this figured out....I check the HPOP reservoir level every time you get a no start. Top up to about 3/8" from the top and then try again. If you keep filling the reservoir, the excess will drain down a stand pipe straight to the crank case.
Did you check the fuel bowl heater fuse? It also runs the PCM. Can't think of the # off the top of my head but that will kill the truck dead in it's track. -Jason
Edit: If that fuse is blown you have to disconnect the fuel bowl heater before replacing it because you will just blow it again. It is located in the bottom of the fuel bowl under the filter.
Huge list please help
P1280
P0113
P1670
P0603
P1211
P1139
P1139 is a bit of a smoking gun...
(P1139 Water in fuel lamp circuit malfunction....WIF Lamp, circuit failure, fuse, PCM)
See attached file.
Find Fuse #30 in the under hood fuse panel (page 2). If that fuse is blown, then unplug the fuel heater, replace the fuse and see if the engine starts.
(I am actually kinds surprised that you were even able to pull codes if that fuse is blown...)
P1139 is a bit of a smoking gun...
(P1139 Water in fuel lamp circuit malfunction....WIF Lamp, circuit failure, fuse, PCM)
See attached file.
Find Fuse #30 in the under hood fuse panel (page 2). If that fuse is blown, then unplug the fuel heater, replace the fuse and see if the engine starts.
(I am actually kinds surprised that you were even able to pull codes if that fuse is blown...)
So today I put some oil directly into the hpop to prime the system fired right up I replaced the Lpop with a milling a week ago could the oil be leaking down if the Lpop housing is worn