Rebuilt and noisy
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
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From: Oaklnad TN
Cap screws are easier to install in limited access areas, probably why they were used...but gotta be careful due to the extra clearance needed. I'd replace them with what's supposed to be there if they will fit without taking the whole thing apart-you can more accurately torque a hex bolt. Use a magnetic socket to install. ~Bill
That would have been my choice but not really possible. The access to the bolts through the gear doesn't allow me to get a socket in there. So I went to Harbor freight and picked up a bit set that I can get an accurate torque setting with. The 1/4 inch hex bit with an adapter fits and I can use a torque wrench to get them in. My local autozone failed to order my timing cover gasket so I 'll be putting her together tomorrow.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
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From: Oaklnad TN
I'd like to thank everybody for their help. I got her reassembled and she is quiet as a mouse (except for the exhaust). Right now the exhaust is a walker down pipe (with a cleaned up weld) and a flowmaster high flow cat. Its a bit throaty but not too bad. I have a stainless Flowmaster 40 to go on her this weekend. But I even bought a stethoscope so I could listen and those gears are virtually silent. I let her warm up and then drove her a good 20 min ride at 50Mph and she is good.
On a side note that Crane 53901 cam is what the engine should have been built with in the first place. She is pretty peppy and her acceleration is much better. Now on to the other stuff. I need to replace the thermal fuse in my air bag module and then start on the front end. I'm really looking forward to driving her to work again.
On a side note that Crane 53901 cam is what the engine should have been built with in the first place. She is pretty peppy and her acceleration is much better. Now on to the other stuff. I need to replace the thermal fuse in my air bag module and then start on the front end. I'm really looking forward to driving her to work again.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 709
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sure good to knoq how/what it was
That would have been my choice but not really possible. The access to the bolts through the gear doesn't allow me to get a socket in there. So I went to Harbor freight and picked up a bit set that I can get an accurate torque setting with. The 1/4 inch hex bit with an adapter fits and I can use a torque wrench to get them in. My local autozone failed to order my timing cover gasket so I 'll be putting her together tomorrow.
I am looking at those two bolts that I just removed from a stock cam/gear that went bad. They seem to me to be about the same as the "hold-down" bolt on a typical 300-6 distributor. Anyway, Since I removed them with a socket (1/2" I believe) I have to wonder why it wouldn't be possible to re-install them with a socket using this gear set..but I have to admit my machinist put the last ones in I gave him.
I WILL use the same Cloyes gear set in a few weeks on another project and I WILL have to make sure that these same two bolts are used and torqued by myself.....and of course loctite will be used...
Good to hear all is well now.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
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From: Oaklnad TN
I think my machinist must have "misplaced" them and substituted the cap screws. They are certainly hard enough and with loctite and correctly torquing them with a 1/4" hex bit I'm not worried. I would definitely check them when you get your short block back. I will just never have another one assembled by them. This is the first one I've ever had them assemble and my post earlier in this thread describes that horror story. The cap screws were just part of that. They do excellent machine work but they have their junior guys do the assembly. You're much better just doing the complete disassemble and reassemble yourself. If I had done that, the two cam retention plate screws would have been on my clean parts table in a labeled zip lock. I never would have had this issue. It will never happen again. Lesson learned.
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