F800 starting issue?
New User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: New Haven
Pete, On the heavy red wire going to the starter, does it have 12volts? Are the wire ends clean and have good contact surfaces? If you have 12 volts to the starter I would say that you have a bad starter, for the clicking/no clicking issue. At the fusible link, do you have 12 volts on both sides of the links?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 276
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Pete, On the heavy red wire going to the starter, does it have 12 volts? Are the wire ends clean and have good contact surfaces? If you have 12 volts to the starter I would say that you have a bad starter, for the clicking/no clicking issue. At the fusible link, do you have 12 volts on both sides of the links?
A week ago Monday when this started. The guy that helped me cross out the starter to get it to start. Even doing that the Bendix kicked in and the starter did not at first. But next try it tried to kick in and then started. Thinking back it was dragging just a little that AM when I started it. But it was cold and had been sitting for a week.
It has one battery on it but it weights around 130 lbs.
Guy I bought the truck from had it put on the truck. It should have 3 battery's but he ran this monster.
But a Top post.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Good news bad news..
Truck is running, But still not sure how or what was wrong. Put the new solenoid on the truck. Then it would not even click, so put the old one back on. Then put the hot post back on the batter. Fired right up even though it has not been started in 9 days. Along with lows down around freezing. But motor did not turn over 3 times and it was running like new.
So it was the ground where there at the solenoid? Or I also checked the plug where the switch wires connect under the dash. So not sure what I did but its running again.
Sad part is how to trust it when you don't now if it will start the next time you get somewhere away from home? Thinking I will get a remote starter switch and keep it with me. But the question is where to hook the 2 wires for it to start the 7.8?
Truck is running, But still not sure how or what was wrong. Put the new solenoid on the truck. Then it would not even click, so put the old one back on. Then put the hot post back on the batter. Fired right up even though it has not been started in 9 days. Along with lows down around freezing. But motor did not turn over 3 times and it was running like new.
So it was the ground where there at the solenoid? Or I also checked the plug where the switch wires connect under the dash. So not sure what I did but its running again.
Sad part is how to trust it when you don't now if it will start the next time you get somewhere away from home? Thinking I will get a remote starter switch and keep it with me. But the question is where to hook the 2 wires for it to start the 7.8?
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Joined: Jul 2011
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Somewhere in the above posts I think you said the starter clicked?
On SOME farm tractors we have to wire in a second solenoid, this solenoid then applies a full 12 volt to the start wire terminal on the starter.
If you can short your starter and it start, this second solenoid will cure your problem.
I learned it from john deere, they actually sell a kit for
the green things, you can piece it together for cheap.
S58 is the solenoid I use.
On SOME farm tractors we have to wire in a second solenoid, this solenoid then applies a full 12 volt to the start wire terminal on the starter.
If you can short your starter and it start, this second solenoid will cure your problem.
I learned it from john deere, they actually sell a kit for
the green things, you can piece it together for cheap.
S58 is the solenoid I use.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,113
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From: Ohio
To be honest I hate electric, you can have 12 volts but as soon as you put a draw on it, you have nothing. Sometimes new is junk as in the solenoid, then you start chasing your tail. I would go back to basics and make sure you have clean connections and look for corrosion.
Off topic, my neighbor had a problem with his IH tractor. I looked it over, then asked if he were color blind or something to which he replied Yes. Ground on Positive is not a really great idea.....
Off topic, my neighbor had a problem with his IH tractor. I looked it over, then asked if he were color blind or something to which he replied Yes. Ground on Positive is not a really great idea.....
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 276
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Somewhere in the above posts I think you said the starter clicked?
On SOME farm tractors we have to wire in a second solenoid, this solenoid then applies a full 12 volt to the start wire terminal on the starter.
If you can short your starter and it start, this second solenoid will cure your problem.
I learned it from john deere, they actually sell a kit for
the green things, you can piece it together for cheap.
S58 is the solenoid I use.
On SOME farm tractors we have to wire in a second solenoid, this solenoid then applies a full 12 volt to the start wire terminal on the starter.
If you can short your starter and it start, this second solenoid will cure your problem.
I learned it from john deere, they actually sell a kit for
the green things, you can piece it together for cheap.
S58 is the solenoid I use.
Pete
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
To be honest I hate electric, you can have 12 volts but as soon as you put a draw on it, you have nothing. Sometimes new is junk as in the solenoid, then you start chasing your tail. I would go back to basics and make sure you have clean connections and look for corrosion.
Off topic, my neighbor had a problem with his IH tractor. I looked it over, then asked if he were color blind or something to which he replied Yes. Ground on Positive is not a really great idea.....
Off topic, my neighbor had a problem with his IH tractor. I looked it over, then asked if he were color blind or something to which he replied Yes. Ground on Positive is not a really great idea.....
Will be checking all the rest of the grounds along with every connection I can find.
Seen the positive on ground before also.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: saxton pa.
No Start
Check the plug that fits in the back of the ignition switch, they corrode and can cause this problem, sometimes the wires will be burnt back and the terminals will be blackened and melted. There is a replacement plug available to repair this problem , don't use crimp terminals - solder the connections and use heat shink tubing to insulate the repair. Crimp terminals will fail in a short time.
Have A Great Day--------- Hotwrench
Have A Great Day--------- Hotwrench
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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Check the plug that fits in the back of the ignition switch, they corrode and can cause this problem, sometimes the wires will be burnt back and the terminals will be blackened and melted. There is a replacement plug available to repair this problem , don't use crimp terminals - solder the connections and use heat shink tubing to insulate the repair. Crimp terminals will fail in a short time.
Have A Great Day--------- Hotwrench
Have A Great Day--------- Hotwrench
But thinking it was the plug at the end of the harness for the switch. Where it goes under the dash. Thinking that is where the issue was. One side had what felt like oil on it or like it may have gotten hot. So will see if I can get it apart and check all connections there.But its started every time the last 7 days. Even fired right up today with freezing temps and wind chills in the teens. Starts just as good as it did in warm weather.
Need to find the right Temperature sensor. Got one a few weeks ago and it works. But the electric gauge shows 140 Degrees when its cold. So when you add the 180 to that your pegging the gauge out when its normal temps. Not sure why but guessing the parts place got the wrong one and its for a light rather then gauge. So will see if I can find the right part number or one that works right for it.
Pete
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