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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Push Button Start

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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Push Button Start

Oh like you haven't heard this problem a 1000 times before. About 2 years ago my '85 quit starting when I would roll the key over. So I replaced the cylinder key lock and solenoid switch, that didn't do it. I put in a push button start wired to the solenoid switch and that works fine. I just turn the truck on, hit the button and away I go.
When the starter actuator piece broke in the steering column I replaced that (PITA!!!) and the ignition switch at the bottom of the column. I disconnected the push button and tried to start the truck with the key and it still won't roll over, but the tach moves up to like 3k without starting then drops back down when I release the key.
Would it be reasonable to suspect a faulty ground somewhere??? The truck starts fine the way I have it set up, but I don't want to get into the habit of 'rigging' things up differently whenever a problem arises.
Thanks for any thoughts any of you guys might have.
LNF
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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If you are not getting voltage over at the red/blue wire at the solenoid, a place to look would be the neutral safety switch. It's on the side of the tranny if it's an automatic, and on the clutch pedal if it's a manual.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:08 PM
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With the tach going to 3K without engine running, sounds like a feedback problem, or grounding problem. The ignition switch doe not have any grounding function besides the guage lamp check function. Time to check for bad wires, on my 84 F250 the ignition switch burnt up on me and I had similar problems like you.
Does the tach work properly with engine running?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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The tac works fine when the truck is running, so I'm not for sure why it shows rpm's when I roll the key to the start position and the truck isn't running. Dave, I did check the neutral safety switch and drill bit fit in at 7/16ths of the way in the hole, so I loosened the bolts and moved it around to get the bit in about another 1/8" in. But, in doing that it still wouldn't turn over with the key, yet that doesn't mean that the safety switch itself isn't bad, because it sure could be.
There are alot more pressing issues to be dealt with in our forum then this one, it's just one of those things that make you go 'Hmmmmmm'! It's just hard to get use to RPM's with no engine noise...even after two years.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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You should have two red/blue wires going to the neutral safety. Unplug the switch, and make a jumper and jump the two red/blues together, and that will bypass the switch.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Thank Ya, Mr. Dave, I will give that a try! Wisdon like that is why you have 18,000+ posts to my nonexistant 9 or 10, but hey, I'm learnin' as I go!
Thanks Man,
LNF
 
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