As suggested, check the continuity between the two ends of that circuit. If there is none, or high resistance, work your way back towards the controller checking again at each junction.

 

Now that you have the new one, are you certain, if you activate it manually you can not verify voltage at the brake pin? That is a standard test procedure.

Steve

 

Okay, Ford integrated controller. Power at the controller, nothing at the back when activating the manual slide. Did you check power not only "to", but also "through" the slide control in the dash?

Given the scenario, I would next be going to the plug that connects the short segment of harness that goes to the seven pin plug to the truck harness, passenger side as I recall up near the bumper. Short section from seven pin plugs into receptacle. I do not believe you have a break in the main harness and something here just doesn't feel right. This is should not be this hard!

Steve

 

I agree it shouldn't be this hard (LOL) any other ideas where the plug might be? I have looked and cant seem to find it. it isn't on the passenger side all the wires go up inside the driver side frame rail and I cant seem to find it anywhere. I have been under the truck a dozen times (LOL) looking for it.

 

If you follow back from the seven pin on your truck doesn't it go to a juncture point with the harness?

I was going to open up my dash to get a view on my own ITC, but it is colder than crap here today. I wanted to see if I could identify the output lead from the controller. although I can't recall ever seeing a controller with an inoperative manual slide. When you operate the slide what does the message center say on your dash?

Steve

 

Its pretty cold here today as well. Dash reads trailer disconnected when I activate it manually. Only thing I see under the truck is a spot where all the wire seem to branch out from but definitely no plug looks like a bunch of electrical tape. I am gonna try to remove tape and see whats underneath. Once again thanks for your help.

 

So "trailer disconnected" would verify the controller is working and looking for the resistance from the trailer magnets, which it is failing to find. That means an open circuit anywhere from the controller back, but it is either going to be right at the controller or at the rear of the truck. I think an open circuit via the main harness is so unlikely as to be ruled out automatically, particularly in light of the fact that everything else is getting power.

I taped my slide in my truck so it stayed active even though I did not have a trailer and found I had about 1 VDC below my battery voltage, which is about what I would expect with the trailer disconnected message showing.

You are using a meter and grounding to the chassis or the grounding pin on seven pin on the truck? If you are using the grounding pin, did you check for continuity between it and the chassis to be sure you are not chasing a power issue when it is a grounding issue?

This is just a thought, but do you have anyone knowledgeable who can look over your shoulder? Sometimes when I get stuck having someone watch what I am doing. Fortunately my wife has good basic knowledge and usually ends up saying something like "I thought you would have checked that first".

Steve

 

I was using the pin but I just checked for continuity between the pin and the frame it was good. I do have a buddy that is gonna come look at it this week if I cant figure it out.

 

Sometimes an extra set of eyes is really helpful.

 

I actually haven't tried. The new one worked so I didn't bother. But it's what the Tekonsha guy said when I told him I was getting zero volts.
I guess I should try it

 

It seems strange to me. I don't think there is really any reason to check other than curiosity. My hunch is, in this case, tech support was addressing amp draw and not voltage while testing. It is an easy thing to do.

Steve

 

just because I didn't see it addressed... which pin position are you checking?

 

Could I just run a new blue wire from the controller to the plug?

 

Certainly, just make sure you choose the right lead of the controller.

Steve

 

Thanks again for all your time and help