Heater core

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Nov 28, 2013 | 01:44 AM

#16

warren561

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Joined: Dec 2012

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From: 85716

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Mech

Make sure you don't have any voltage in your cooling system, Fords are known for that, leading to heater core failure.

So, how does one address that issue? Attach a ground wire (somehow) to the heater core?

Nov 28, 2013 | 12:39 PM

#17

turnkyle

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Joined: Mar 2011

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From: Heber, UT

Quote:

Originally Posted by warren561

So, how does one address that issue? Attach a ground wire (somehow) to the heater core?

I would like to know how you test for and correct this as well.

Nov 28, 2013 | 05:44 PM

#18

ArdWrknTrk

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

Use a voltmeter between the coolant (only) and battery negative terminal.
Anything above 1/10th of a volt is cause for concern.
Brass is less affected than aluminum (noblity scale)

I would suggest system grounding anywhere BUT the heater core, as this will cause more electron flow through it to ground.

Check all grounding straps.
Check with the battery disconnected from coolant to block, frame and chassis ground.
If you have voltage with the battery disconnected your coolant has become the acidic electrolyte.
Flush and change it. Retest the system.

Nov 28, 2013 | 09:10 PM

#19

warren561

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From: 85716

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Check all grounding straps.

Is there a handy list anywhere of where all the grounding straps are located?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Check with the battery disconnected from coolant to block, frame and chassis ground.

So this confuses me. If I disconnect the battery, but I read a voltage between the block and the heater core inlet/outlet, that means that my coolant is acidic and acting as an electrolyte?

Nov 28, 2013 | 09:24 PM

#20

ArdWrknTrk

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

1) Grounds.
There is no way for me or anyone to list what goes where for all the variety of trucks covered here.
For my truck offhand...
Battery to frame to block.
Strap from engine to firewall.
Strap from cab pinch weld to cab support below drivers feet.

2) No
If you remove the battery from the equation and there is still voltage potential between -the coolant - and any ground you have a battery that IS your cooling system.
Regardless, the acid will eat your aluminum heater core from the inside out.
Litmus test will show this.
But better preventative maintenance is obviously indicated.

Nov 29, 2013 | 02:30 AM

#21

Super Mech

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ArdWrknTrk, that was very well said!

Nov 29, 2013 | 09:32 PM

#22

2500ak

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I swapped out the aluminum core I had for one that fits. It seems to work, but not nearly as well as the old one. It heats up the cab, but the brass core got the air so hot it would burn you if you held your hands to the vents.

I think I might have to have the old one fixed. That or find a NOS one.

Nov 29, 2013 | 10:03 PM

#23

kermmydog

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Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 9,176

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From: Western Central NV

The last one I bought was aluminum. One way they say to extend life is to use a HOAT anti freeze. Something like Dexcool. It is suppose to cut down on the electrolysis with the aluminum, but yet the two Dexcool GMs I had needed heater cores long before any Ford. Maybe Ford has a version of coolant for their new aluminum cars & trucks. HOAT is recommended for Jeep, Dodge, Ram. Yet I run the green in my 99 Ram that is what came in it.
So as stated very glad Ford made them so easy to change.