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Which results in a steady stream of newbies here exclaiming things like:
The PO didn't know what he was doing, "ripped off all that junk" and "cleaned up the engine bay" but now it doesn't run worth a crap and gets 5 MPG... help me help me what do I do?"
Yep. You have to know what you are doing with these systems as they get rather complex. Even the ones w/o a computer have a jillion doodads, like delay valves and TAD relays, and one thing frequently impacts another. But then throw in a computer and it is either working well or it isn't working. You can't take part of it away or the computer knows - and it won't be happy. So if it is working I would maintain it that way.
Which results in a steady stream of newbies here exclaiming things like:
The PO didn't know what he was doing, "ripped off all that junk" and "cleaned up the engine bay" but now it doesn't run worth a crap and gets 5 MPG... help me help me what do I do?"
I thought you might say something like that, having read that you are one of the few advocates for Ford's 'upgrades'...
My truck runs fine. It's really sluggish and bogged down at initial cold start, but after a few minutes it's perfect. It's smooth with no 'funny' noises. I get around 14 MPG driving around town. Mostly I just need to change the gaskets to stop the bleeding, because it can't be healthy! I might find some other issues in there, but hopefully not.
The transmission probably needs an oil change as well as new gaskets and hopefully that will solve it's occasional stiffness. That might be normal, but as I say, it's intermittent.
I'll probably get the computer reader from HF so that I can do a complete check-up. Are those things all generally capable of being hooked up to any vehicle, or do I need to look for a specific type?
You need a specific code reader for your system. It isn't OBD-II. It is Ford. But, you don't really need a code reader. I don't remember how to do it, but I think there's something in the stickies about it.
I spoke to a paint and body guy and he quoted $1600 for the bits of body work and a full paint job. And another $500 if I want the frame done. He said it would be easier for them if the engine is out... I don't really want to remove it twice, but also don't want to leave it until I have the money for the paint... Anyway, that's something I have to decide.
There is something odd about a painter asking for an engine to be taken out. Unless he wants to paint the interior firewall and the transmission tunnel, I can't see how it would possibly get in the way of anything. And if he did want to paint those things, you'd have to remove a lot more than the engine (heater core box and brake booster off the top of my head).
If you are planning on removing the engine anyway for other reasons, then sure, it won't hurt. But if you're doing it just for the painter, that's a bit excessive.
Also, the quote he gave you for the work is really low. When it comes to a paint job, a low quote is actually more scary than a high one. It means the painter will be required to cut corners in order to make any sort of profit. That means you probably won't be happy with the result.
You know your situation better than anyone, and maybe this guy is a personal friend or something, but be sure to do your research and approach this very carefully! Cars and paint seem to be where a lot of people meet disappointment.
There is something odd about a painter asking for an engine to be taken out. Unless he wants to paint the interior firewall and the transmission tunnel, I can't see how it would possibly get in the way of anything. And if he did want to paint those things, you'd have to remove a lot more than the engine (heater core box and brake booster off the top of my head).
If you are planning on removing the engine anyway for other reasons, then sure, it won't hurt. But if you're doing it just for the painter, that's a bit excessive.
Also, the quote he gave you for the work is really low. When it comes to a paint job, a low quote is actually more scary than a high one. It means the painter will be required to cut corners in order to make any sort of profit. That means you probably won't be happy with the result.
You know your situation better than anyone, and maybe this guy is a personal friend or something, but be sure to do your research and approach this very carefully! Cars and paint seem to be where a lot of people meet disappointment.
Sorry, I had read that but forgot to reply. I fully agree with Luke. Especially on the part about the quote. My truck's thorough body repair and paint job is going to be $6500. There wasn't much to do on the cab, fenders, doors, or hood but a lot of work on the bed. Yes, it is a full-on restoration, but for the most part that just changes the quality of the finish not the amount of body work.
Speaking of the UK - One of my favorite shows is Wheeler Dealers. I actually bought some of the long orange gloves that Ed China uses on the show. They are thicker than most I've used and work great!
No, the painter did not ask for the engine to be removed.
I mentioned to him that I would like to remove it and have the truck painted at the same time. That way it wouldn't be off the road for separate jobs. He then said that he could pick up the truck with his trailer and that it would make painting the engine bay easier. So, no big deal either way. My issue is just that I want to do the engine ASAP, but might have to wait a couple of months for the budget to have it painted.
I am aware of the cost of your(Luke and Gary) paint jobs. The 'wheeler dealer' I bought the truck from told me I could get a paint job for $1000(his day job is selling paint to bodyshops), but that it wouldn't be a show truck(far from it probably) and that I would have to do most of the prep work. Now I'm calling him a 'wheeler dealer' for a reason, so he could have been lying through his teeth!
I am still researching bodyshops, but I'm not expecting showroom condition. I am wary of your experiences and the possibility of getting a bill that is far removed from the quote...
On a different note, I took the truck out for a longer drive earlier and the new tach and speedo works great! The speedo needle is actually steady for once, running just below 55 at 2000RPM. It's a little jerky building up to 35, but that might just be my jerky acceleration! No, seriously though, a few wobbles during acceleration I can live with, as long as it's steady while cruising.
I might have to change the Temp gauge over though, as the new one won't even get up to C!
Gary, I'll check the stickys for the computer codes and report back, thanks.
Speaking of the UK - One of my favorite shows is Wheeler Dealers. I actually bought some of the long orange gloves that Ed China uses on the show. They are thicker than most I've used and work great!
And Bob's your Uncle! Job Done!
Wheeler Dealers is on TV here? What channel? One of my favourites too, you actually learn something watching that.
In terms of the computer: It controls not only the carburetor and distributor (timing), it manages the AIR (Smog) system, EVAP and EGR systems.
When I pulled my computer, I got rid of the AIR system (the pump was bad and I don't have CATS) and converted the EGR and EVAP to the older pre-computer vacuum control. Since the computer was gone, I didn't need the temp sender it used (the temp gauge used a different one) so I replaced it with a ported vacuum switch that now 'manages' the EVAP purge and EGR (had to replace the EGR valve).
Basically, just converted it to an old school system. I hate computers and several of my solenoids were bad; made more sense to simplify things.
But then I sort of know what I am doing..
Wheeler Dealers is on the Velocity Channel. In fact, it's on at 2pm today (wed) and runs pretty much all afternoon and night. Older episodes for now but still fun to watch. Ed get's me motivated..
Wheeler Dealers is on the Velocity Channel. In fact, it's on at 2pm today (wed) and runs pretty much all afternoon and night. Older episodes for now but still fun to watch. Ed get's me motivated.. Grease Junkie Shop - Edd China
Found it! Cheers!
What sort of mileage are you getting?
If I can get around 16MPG once I've giving the truck a good service and made sure that all the gizmos are working as they should, then I would be happy and probably just keep the electronic system.
And depending on where the future takes me, I might want to go crazy on the engine eventually. I've listened to some trucks on youtube, 300s with headers, Offenhauser intakes and big carbs etc., sure sounds nice. Then again, a big V8 might be more appropriate if I'm looking for sound...
So I've finally managed to make some time for my truck.
Quick explanation for my absence... I was gaining some serious sympathy for the unemployed back in Feb, before I tried to get into the truck driving industry. I thought there would be issues as I had only had my US licence a few months at the time... No, no issues, I applied online on Thursday and they called me on Friday wanting me to start on Monday! No interview, no work history required, nothing. As long as you have a valid driver's licence and can pass a drug test, you're in! They'll put you through school while you stay in a hotel they pay for. Your only expense is food for the first 2 weeks. Obviously over the road driving isn't for everyone, but as a last resort, no one has an excuse.
Anyway, so I've been away from home for most of the last 8 months, but enough of that.
Here's some more detail to the post I posted last week.
New drums...
As well as new hardware, shoes and cylinders. All came off and went on reasonably easy. Not manually adjusting the brakes gave me a cause for concern, but was easily fixed...
Old and new...
I thought the rotors might be joined with the hubs, but didn't realise that meant taking the hubs apart and the extra tools that therefore was required...
The cap came flying off and hit me in the shin! I didn't think that was suppose to happen... PO mess something up? The other side had the spring on the inside and after staring at it for awhile I think I figured out how it was suppose to work... I think.
Had real trouble getting the locking ring out, as well as the snapring. I had to go back to O'Reillys to get a stronger set of pliers. And then I had to go back to get the 4-pin socket!! Which I also didn't realise I would need. In the end it all came out, rotor went back to OR, turned for $12 each and then I damaged the pistons taking them out of the calipers. So I got refurbed ones on my next visit. Everything went back together really easy compared to taking it apart.
I was too greasy to take regular pics, but I'm sure most of you have 'seen that, been there, done that, etc...'!
01-21-2014, 10:38 PM
I thought you might say something like that, having read that you are one of the few advocates for Ford's 'upgrades'...
No, seriously though, a few wobbles during acceleration I can live with, as long as it's steady while cruising.
I didn't think that was suppose to happen... PO mess something up? The other side had the spring on the inside and after staring at it for awhile I think I figured out how it was suppose to work...
I think.
