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I'm looking forward to seeing what your seats look like when it's all done. I saw the pics with the back window out, so that could be interesting to make it work.
The current plan is to replace the angled spacer that raises the front 1" more than the rear of the seat with a parallel spacer. That'll raise the rear of the seat 1" and bring the seat back about flush with the rear window with the seat fully back. But, I won't finalize that until everything goes together and I see for sure how it fits.
It's a pleasure. I'm doing basic things, so probably not much help to anyone, apart from the guy who is bored at work and wants to look at some Ford pictures!
How long ago did you paint yours and how is the paint holding up?
It's only been a couple of weeks, so I don't know how they will hold up. I also replaced the weatherstripping around the doors and windows, which made a good difference. I really like how your gauges cleaned up. I'm going to give thata try.
So I guess we're in the same boat Don, I hope it works for us both.
With the gauges I just wiped everything down and then used a fluorescent Sharpie on the needles. In the 'How To' part of the forum is a thread on gauges. Lots of ideas in there, painting the bracket, changing the bulbs etc. Just cleaning everything and coloring the gauges did the trick for me, for now anyway.
The weatherstripping is definitely on my to-do list too, did you get the parts from LMC?
Hope everyone had a pleasant Christmas day and enjoyed stuffing themselves stupid!
Yes, I got the window kit and cab weatherstripping for $197, including shipping from LMC. There are a number of how to videos on YouTube that helped me. My doors now will pop open when I operate the door handle. Before, I had to put a little force on them to get them open.
I have one simple suggestion for you that worked out great for me. When I was restoring my 86 I would clean and paint things as I worked in them. Example: when I replace the brakes I would paint the calipers, control arms, frame rail, anything in that area where I was working. By the time I was finished I had cleaned and paint almost everything. It makes the whole truck look better and helps deal with future rust.
I have one simple suggestion for you that worked out great for me. When I was restoring my 86 I would clean and paint things as I worked in them. Example: when I replace the brakes I would paint the calipers, control arms, frame rail, anything in that area where I was working. By the time I was finished I had cleaned and paint almost everything. It makes the whole truck look better and helps deal with future rust.
Great suggestion, and that's a really sharp truck.
Nolan, that is a good suggestion indeed and I try to follow that philosophy as far as my wallet allows. And yeah, nice looking truck.
Don, most of my weatherstripping is still reasonable and everything works as I imagine it should. Not much wind noise when the windows are closed, in fact the truck is really quiet considering the age. But the windows aren't closed very often... So wind deflectors for the windows/doors are on my wishlist too! The rubber lining on the outside of the driver's window is badly worn though, so I might as well replace all the weatherstripping.
And thank you 'nikmish', I appreciate the comment.
I finally finished the driver's side trim last week. Now the cab is looking rather fancy, kinda...
Don't know why this picture came out the way it did. Only noticed it now, but the paint is uniform across the panel, or pretty close to it anyway. That light patch must just be light reflecting or something.
I also went out to look around a few more junk yards and found a 7 pin buzzer and a tachometer-including instrument cluster which both now have a home in Eddy!
The buzzer works perfect. I did disconnect the ignition wire as I only want the lights-on buzzer. And I tested the tach before taking things apart and was happy to see this...
Is a 1000 RPM at initial idle dropping to 750 normal for a 300? I read the FAQs and apparently the cluster is a straight swap. The cluster is most certainly from a V8, but I couldn't confirm as it had no engine. It was an '86 extended cab with all the bells and whistles.
I also managed to adjust the new odometer after reading some relevant threads on how to... It was tricky, but not to difficult.
Took it round the block once it was all back together and the new cluster works great, at 30 MPH anyway... Will go out a bit further tomorrow to make sure.
Good work! The tach is capable of doing either 6 or 8 and that is determined by a wire in the engine compartment - grounded it reads for an 8 and otherwise for a 6.
I also have a few questions and would appreciate some opinions.
The next project(or part of this one) is removing the engine. Probably won't be until next month, but I need to get my plan in order. I want to get the truck painted, but my budget might not allow it.
I spoke to a paint and body guy and he quoted $1600 for the bits of body work and a full paint job. And another $500 if I want the frame done. He said it would be easier for them if the engine is out... I don't really want to remove it twice, but also don't want to leave it until I have the money for the paint... Anyway, that's something I have to decide.
But I would like opinions on what to do with the engine. I believe it has most of the emissions 'stuff' still on it. Also I believe it has a computer - computer looking thing behind the instrument cluster? I was hoping it didn't as I don't want to mess with electronic stuff, not my favourite activity!
I've read a lot about the DSII system and everyone seems to prefer that? I don't really want to go to extreme as I'm not sure where we're going in 3 years and I might need to pass emissions, I don't at the moment.
I'd love to have headers and a 4 barrel carb etc., but I don't think I'll be going there yet, if ever. Mostly I need to replace all the gaskets and clean everything. And probably paint while I'm at it.
So the big questions are do I get rid of 'emissions' and do I change the ignition and does one automatically result in the other?
Thanks for reading, any advice or opinion is appreciated.
If your engine is currently computer-controlled and you change the ignition to DS-II and leave the computer in place it is going to get its knickers in a wad and put things in limp-home mode. That means your engine will run, but poorly. And I can't see it passing any emissions test. So you have to either completely remove the computer or leave it fully in charge.
As for taking it completely off and passing emissions testing, that depends entirely on where the testing is. Some places don't check all that closely and the standards are low so it might pass. But other places look to see if things are in place and operating, and they have stringent standards. So without knowing where you are going I can't say if you can pass. However, if the system is computerized and is working right now I would leave it on. I believe these trucks perform best with everything working, but that is sometimes hard to maintain.
Thanks Gary. I'll probably PM you with some more detailed questions at some point. I was leaning towards leaving everything in place and just making sure it all works. The engine bay is just so busy, it's hard to identify everything without any experience...
PM is fine. Or here. Whatever. But I understand about the engine bay. I like a clean, neat, and tidy one but the later years of these trucks the bays were anything but that. They had so many bells and whistles it was very difficult to know what was what. Which is why much of it has been taken off by people who didn't understand what the stuff was.
Which is why much of it has been taken off by people who didn't understand what the stuff was.
Which results in a steady stream of newbies here exclaiming things like:
The PO didn't know what he was doing, "ripped off all that junk" and "cleaned up the engine bay" but now it doesn't run worth a crap and gets 5 MPG... help me help me what do I do?"
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