302 Performance Build
302 Performance Build
So my 302 in my truck right now is shot. Oil pump is going out and piston seals are gone. It is stalling whenever i come to a stop and its hard to start and keep started once its in gear. Its eating up so much oil and so much of my money that I'm going to tear it apart and rebuild. So far for performance upgrades I'm wanting to put the Edelbrock 5435 dual intake manifold with two Edelbrock 500cfm Performer carbs. I've had a few people cringe whenever i say that. I also want to put a Comp Muthr Thumpr Camshaft in it. Everything else that needs replacing will be stock or stock replacement. Anyone who thinks I need to do something more or change up this combination, your opinion is welcome. Any advice is more than appreciated. I am not a moron when it comes to engines but this is the first time I have pulled an engine and completely rebuilt it so I need SOME guidance. Thanks.
I take it this is your 1977 truck motor.
Read on here, post 3:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...02-advice.html
You will not get "performance" out of the low compression that engine had as OEM, so you need heads and different pistons.
Your cam will have no low end and needs higher compression to make any power. What gears and trans do you have?
A girdle is a device bolted to the main bearings and elsewhere in the bottom end of an engine to strengthen it for higher power/rpm running.
M-6340-A302 Mustang Main Cap Girdle 289/302 | CJ Pony Parts
Attention to rods, rod bolts, valve springs and anything related in the valve train will take you to 7000 rpms with a 302. If you want to spin it harder than that, you will be spending more. The 302 block does not live long over 400 horse.
Read on here, post 3:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...02-advice.html
You will not get "performance" out of the low compression that engine had as OEM, so you need heads and different pistons.
Your cam will have no low end and needs higher compression to make any power. What gears and trans do you have?
A girdle is a device bolted to the main bearings and elsewhere in the bottom end of an engine to strengthen it for higher power/rpm running.
M-6340-A302 Mustang Main Cap Girdle 289/302 | CJ Pony Parts
Attention to rods, rod bolts, valve springs and anything related in the valve train will take you to 7000 rpms with a 302. If you want to spin it harder than that, you will be spending more. The 302 block does not live long over 400 horse.
ol'blue77
Sounds like you want your engine to look cool - and that's okay, just don't complain about the lackluster "performance" of that setup.
A "girdle" is probably referring to a stud girdle - main bearing caps or rocker arms on a 302. They are used to tie everything together to help maintain stability at high RPM's - you will not need this with your setup.
Sounds like you want your engine to look cool - and that's okay, just don't complain about the lackluster "performance" of that setup.
A "girdle" is probably referring to a stud girdle - main bearing caps or rocker arms on a 302. They are used to tie everything together to help maintain stability at high RPM's - you will not need this with your setup.
My truck had 130,000 on it and it just dosent seem to run. When I start it, I start it it turns over runs with almost no power for 2 seconds than has power. I've put headers on no leaks new air filter plugs wires dist cap etc
Anyway what I'm planning to do is pick up another 302 and build it. Kinda looking like this sexy thing :
http://quadcities.craigslist.org/pts/4274012030.html
Anyway what I'm planning to do is pick up another 302 and build it. Kinda looking like this sexy thing :
http://quadcities.craigslist.org/pts/4274012030.html
im looking to install a b303 cam in my 302 will it work with everything stock? or will I need longer or shorter push rods or what?
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Does it have the factory roller cam set-up now?
So my 302 in my truck right now is shot. Oil pump is going out and piston seals are gone. It is stalling whenever i come to a stop and its hard to start and keep started once its in gear. Its eating up so much oil and so much of my money that I'm going to tear it apart and rebuild. So far for performance upgrades I'm wanting to put the Edelbrock 5435 dual intake manifold with two Edelbrock 500cfm Performer carbs. I've had a few people cringe whenever i say that. I also want to put a Comp Muthr Thumpr Camshaft in it. Everything else that needs replacing will be stock or stock replacement. Anyone who thinks I need to do something more or change up this combination, your opinion is welcome. Any advice is more than appreciated. I am not a moron when it comes to engines but this is the first time I have pulled an engine and completely rebuilt it so I need SOME guidance. Thanks.
If you're determined to use those parts and your intention is not to just leave it idling with the hood open you'll need to turn the engine 6,500+ rpm to appreciate them. Which means new heads on top of a full rebuild with hyper/forged pistons and a complete balance job. And a new valvetrain. And probably some 5.13 gears to back it up. I'd guess maybe $7,500 once it's all said and done.
I'd build a 350hp/450tq 347 I was going to drop that kind of dough but that's just me.
So I have done a little more research on the 302. Going with Edelbrock performer intake manifold with a edelbrock performer carb. All new lifters, springs, rocker arms, and lifting rods, comp ***** thumpr camshaft, all new timing set, high volume oil pump, water pump, new distributor and cap (not that distributors have anything to do with building power, mines just messed up) new long tube hedman hedders and exhaust system. Changing rear end from 2.62 to 3.73 gear ratio. Is it essential to get new heads to get a camshaft to perform better? If I get new heads does ford make performance heads?
To take advantage of that cam new heads would be a must. Ford makes some okay aluminum heads but you can get better for about the same money.
And if you're changing gears anyway go to at least 4.11. What size tires?
FWIW, I've got a 331 in a Mustang with the Comp 292h cam, air gap intake, 750 dp backed up by a 5-speed and 3.73 gears. Roughly the same combo you're talking about for your truck, albeit with with smaller tires in a vehicle that weighs at least 1,000 pounds less and it's still lazy off idle. Lazy enough I'm changing the cam so it's more comfortable to drive around the city.
You'll need at least new heads, a full rebuild, full balance job, pistons to raise compression to ~10.5:1 if you want it to run at all like it should with that cam.
And if you're changing gears anyway go to at least 4.11. What size tires?
FWIW, I've got a 331 in a Mustang with the Comp 292h cam, air gap intake, 750 dp backed up by a 5-speed and 3.73 gears. Roughly the same combo you're talking about for your truck, albeit with with smaller tires in a vehicle that weighs at least 1,000 pounds less and it's still lazy off idle. Lazy enough I'm changing the cam so it's more comfortable to drive around the city.
You'll need at least new heads, a full rebuild, full balance job, pistons to raise compression to ~10.5:1 if you want it to run at all like it should with that cam.
To take advantage of that cam new heads would be a must. Ford makes some okay aluminum heads but you can get better for about the same money.
And if you're changing gears anyway go to at least 4.11. What size tires?
FWIW, I've got a 331 in a Mustang with the Comp 292h cam, air gap intake, 750 dp backed up by a 5-speed and 3.73 gears. Roughly the same combo you're talking about for your truck, albeit with with smaller tires in a vehicle that weighs at least 1,000 pounds less and it's still lazy off idle. Lazy enough I'm changing the cam so it's more comfortable to drive around the city.
You'll need at least new heads, a full rebalance job, pistons to raise compression to ~10.5:1 if you want it to run at all like it should with that cam.
And if you're changing gears anyway go to at least 4.11. What size tires?
FWIW, I've got a 331 in a Mustang with the Comp 292h cam, air gap intake, 750 dp backed up by a 5-speed and 3.73 gears. Roughly the same combo you're talking about for your truck, albeit with with smaller tires in a vehicle that weighs at least 1,000 pounds less and it's still lazy off idle. Lazy enough I'm changing the cam so it's more comfortable to drive around the city.
You'll need at least new heads, a full rebalance job, pistons to raise compression to ~10.5:1 if you want it to run at all like it should with that cam.
A stock 5.0 block is probably good for 500+hp so cracking one isn't a big worry.
While a 351W is a much better truck engine than a 5.0 it's not going to be a whole lot more resistant to cracking. A roller 351 would be a nice upgrade.
Regardless, you should give up on that cam until you've got a nice, light muscle car to drop it in. An otherwise identical truck with something like a 268h cam would run circles around you. Unless you're taking it to the track regularly. Even then it would probably still beat you in a 1/4 mile.
I understand the appeal of a choppy idle, but a choppy dog just isn't my idea of fun.
While a 351W is a much better truck engine than a 5.0 it's not going to be a whole lot more resistant to cracking. A roller 351 would be a nice upgrade.
Regardless, you should give up on that cam until you've got a nice, light muscle car to drop it in. An otherwise identical truck with something like a 268h cam would run circles around you. Unless you're taking it to the track regularly. Even then it would probably still beat you in a 1/4 mile.
I understand the appeal of a choppy idle, but a choppy dog just isn't my idea of fun.
Ive heard that 302's do not last long after 400hp. (it's a windsor not a coyote). I have decided to do the 351w build with some gt40p heads just because. I couldn't care about a choppy idle. To me it makes no difference. What cam would you prefer? Any more suggestions? You seem to know what you're talking about.
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Ravin
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