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Well the check engine light is back on with a new symptom. The truck now is idling and driving rough at low speeds, and appears to be stuck in a constant regen cycle due to my lack of prolonged highway speed driving. Back to the dealer tomorrow it seems...
What is your fuel mileage like? Check the instant meter. If your truck is empty I'd expect the instant fuel mileage on flat ground to be over the 20mpg line. If you are between the 10 and 20 I'd say you're right - regen.
However, that having been said, the engine won't go in to regen mode until you have driven for about 10-15 minutes. This happens to me on my commutes. However, I have a long enough drive that the greater majority of the time I can burn a regen through. While it is in regen the mileage is around 13-15 and non-regen cycle is 17-22, I have a long bed 350 with a big cap on the back though so a lot more load/resistance than an empty truck.
As to the running rough - mine is a little rough in the mornings, more so when it is cold. This doesn't last more than about 3 miles though.
FYI - even with the driving I've done the EGR has been replaced once - around 32000 if I remember right. I am a bit under 48,000 now so at the same rate I'd say around 16,000 miles before the other one clogs. If your engine is "new" as you say, then the EGR would be new along with it. Just keep that in the back of your head. It won't disable the vehicle like an injector or pump, but there is a reason it is on there.
What is your fuel mileage like? Check the instant meter. If your truck is empty I'd expect the instant fuel mileage on flat ground to be over the 20mpg line. If you are between the 10 and 20 I'd say you're right - regen.
However, that having been said, the engine won't go in to regen mode until you have driven for about 10-15 minutes. This happens to me on my commutes. However, I have a long enough drive that the greater majority of the time I can burn a regen through. While it is in regen the mileage is around 13-15 and non-regen cycle is 17-22, I have a long bed 350 with a big cap on the back though so a lot more load/resistance than an empty truck.
As to the running rough - mine is a little rough in the mornings, more so when it is cold. This doesn't last more than about 3 miles though.
FYI - even with the driving I've done the EGR has been replaced once - around 32000 if I remember right. I am a bit under 48,000 now so at the same rate I'd say around 16,000 miles before the other one clogs. If your engine is "new" as you say, then the EGR would be new along with it. Just keep that in the back of your head. It won't disable the vehicle like an injector or pump, but there is a reason it is on there.
My mileage is about 13mpg instant. Nearly all of my trips are in heavy traffic, so I drive about 15-30 minutes with an average speed probably under 20mph, so I'm obviously not covering very many miles either. If my understanding is correct, the truck needs more miles at a higher speed to complete the regen cycle. In addition, the roughness started when I was sitting at a red light and continued at low speeds and even when I was parked. It was noticeably worse in drive and reverse than it was in park or neutral. The truck also didn't sound normal when I shut it down.
Sounds like limp mode to me (reduced power). Get it checked at the dealer. You may not have gotten a message before it went into limp mode. I know because it happened to me once.
Sounds like limp mode to me (reduced power). Get it checked at the dealer. You may not have gotten a message before it went into limp mode. I know because it happened to me once.
Did yours vibrate/run hard like mine? Could it be the result of not being able to complete a regen cycle?
Did yours vibrate/run hard like mine? Could it be the result of not being able to complete a regen cycle?
Unfinished regen should not set a check engine light. Get to your dealer so they can check it out.
I think it is completely stupid for the dealer to refuse a diagnostic unless the MIL is illuminated. The codes should remain in memory even if the light shuts off. By now, I am sure these things record freeze frame data so the dealer should look at the truck whenever the driver says the check engine light came on.
I think it is completely stupid for the dealer to refuse a diagnostic unless the MIL is illuminated. The codes should remain in memory even if the light shuts off.
Agreed, but the code is still on this morning so it doesn't really matter. And I think I might be driving just far enough to avoid the "drive to clean" but I'm not sure. I also definitely don't think it could be causing this code and the rough idle, but that could be wrong too.
I could be wrong, but I don't think the problem you are describing is regen related per se. Your problem sounds exactly like something that happened to me close to 2 years ago at somewhere around 20,000 miles. The truck had gone into active regen maybe 6 miles from my destination. Normally I would just drive around a few more miles until it finished but this time I had somebody else with me so when we reached our destination and parked, I held the truck in a high idle (1500 rpm) as that will continue to keep the regen process active even though the ECM has stopped adding fuel at that point. I sat there like that for less than 5 minutes while we were getting our bearings in relation to the blueprints for the job and all of the sudden it just dropped a cylinder.
No matter what I did the truck ran rough and of course has set the MIL. I drove about a mile and it didn't clear up so at that point I stopped and used the Edge CTS to check the codes. It had a cylinder contribution code for #1 as well as an injector code. As soon as the CTS cleared the codes, the truck went back to normal and the problem never appeared again. I have no idea what caused it and I haven't really heard anybody else ever describe the same situation until you just did here. I didn't take it to the dealer because the codes had been cleared and never came back so they wouldn't have anything to work with. If you can't get it to a dealer and don't have the means to check for codes and reset, you may want to unhook your batteries for an hour or so and it will reset itself. Beware, if you do this the dealer probably won't be of much help if the codes don't come back, but if they don't, you don't need the dealer anyway.
Did yours vibrate/run hard like mine? Could it be the result of not being able to complete a regen cycle?
When my truck went into limp mode / reduced power it ran rough - almost seemed like I had lost an injector or two. I was towing at the time when it went into limp mode - no check engine light - no warning - pulled off the freeway and into a parking lot. Idled rough and limited power. Mine was the result of a bad NOX sensor in the DPF. It set codes but no check engine light. Mechanic was surprised at the lack of that but said it was definitely in limp mode. Not likely it has anything to do with the regen cycle. Sounds like you have a different problem.
I bought the truck used from a dealership that had reacquired it from the original owner due to a series of problems, most notably failures in the fuel injection system. Before reselling the truck to me, the dealership replaced three separate injectors before replacing the entire injection system (pump, injectors, lines, etc., except the fuel tank itself).
I hate to be a Monday morning quarterback, but I would have never given this truck a second look. Anything that needs that much work new is not ever going to be right again. I would dump it and find a good one - they are out there. Yours is not one of them.
I hate to be a Monday morning quarterback, but I would have never given this truck a second look. Anything that needs that much work new is not ever going to be right again. I would dump it and find a good one - they are out there. Yours is not one of them.
Amen to that Pam.could not have put it better.props.
Well I took it down to the dealer the other day and they ran the codes and said that it had two misfires, one in cylinder #1 and one in #6. Otherwise, there was no evidence that there was a problem with the truck. Instead of keeping it, they told me I should drive it more until the problem became more consistent. Until they could pinpoint the issue, they would just be throwing solutions at it like darts. They also didn't want to keep my truck for an extended period of time knowing it was quite a hassle previously. Upon further talking to the mechanic, he said that it's possible it's some sort of wiring issue that he's seen before with the 6.7, but he can't be sure until it happens again. The regen stuff has also stopped and seemed to be completely unrelated.