1961 2wd performance disk brake conversion
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1961 2wd performance disk brake conversion
Hi,
I'm trying to get an idea on what are the largest/most track oriented brakes that will fit under the stock 15" wheels. I've been thinking about swapping a newer crown vic front subframe under the front of the truck (IFS and big brakes), but i would probably need 17" wheels from the crown vic as well.
I've been looking at taking some of the parts from the speedway motors kit (most the caliper brackets) and then piecing together the rest myself. Probably would use some drilled and slotted rotors, hawk pads, and a pair of these (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...7-rd/overview/) for a bolt-together setup using the caliper brackets sold by speedway
now the other issue i'm thinking of could be possible axle wrap under hard braking (with some good tires obviously) causing additional camber and possibly leading to death wobble, which could be very bad at higher speeds
I'm trying to get an idea on what are the largest/most track oriented brakes that will fit under the stock 15" wheels. I've been thinking about swapping a newer crown vic front subframe under the front of the truck (IFS and big brakes), but i would probably need 17" wheels from the crown vic as well.
I've been looking at taking some of the parts from the speedway motors kit (most the caliper brackets) and then piecing together the rest myself. Probably would use some drilled and slotted rotors, hawk pads, and a pair of these (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...7-rd/overview/) for a bolt-together setup using the caliper brackets sold by speedway
now the other issue i'm thinking of could be possible axle wrap under hard braking (with some good tires obviously) causing additional camber and possibly leading to death wobble, which could be very bad at higher speeds
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
No disk brake kit will fit under the stock innie rims.
The rims are old style in how they are made and not safety bead type.
However you can get up to 18s for Stockton wheel with the modern hoops and the innie cap stamping. Look at the Henry.
Garbz
The rims are old style in how they are made and not safety bead type.
However you can get up to 18s for Stockton wheel with the modern hoops and the innie cap stamping. Look at the Henry.
Garbz
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"no disk brake kit will fit under the stock innie rims" lulz wut? what is an "innie" rim? and why would speedway motors sell the kit to fit stock truck components 59-64 or w/e the year range is....
"The rims are old style in how they are made and not safety bead type" sounds like a bad English translation, they are a single sheet standard style steel wheel, nothing special or unusual about them compared to really any other steel wheel.
"However you can get up to 18s for Stockton wheel with the modern hoops and the innie cap stamping. Look at the Henry."
okay, a couple problems with this one
stockton?
innie cap stamping?
wtf is "the Henry" lol?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
Garbz meant this:
Stockton Wheel - Products Smoothie - GM Rally - Milner - Henry
I think you might have been just slightly rude to him.
Eric
Stockton Wheel - Products Smoothie - GM Rally - Milner - Henry
I think you might have been just slightly rude to him.
Eric
Laughing Gas
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Anything that fits under a 15" wheel probably won't be "track oriented" The rotors will be too small. Larger rotors = more leverage from the calipers. You might can find smaller brakes that stop well, but they'll have to work harder so they overheat and fade sooner. You'll probably have more tire options (in truck appropriate sizes) for 18" wheels, and I bet they'd be cheaper too. Most 15" sticky tires are going to have a very small diameter.
Just picked these up for my '66 C10 that will be run at open track days, autocrossed, and flogged at amateur/practice drift events. They're 2009 up CTS-V/Brembo 6 piston calipers that'll go on 14.5" rotors. They're around $510 shipped on Amazon so they're not terribly expensive either, only ~$180 more for the pair than the D52's you posted. Might be worth looking into if you're willing to go with larger wheels. They're built to stop a 556hp 4200 pound sedan (fastest production sedan around Nurburgring), so they'll do even better on a lighter truck.
Just picked these up for my '66 C10 that will be run at open track days, autocrossed, and flogged at amateur/practice drift events. They're 2009 up CTS-V/Brembo 6 piston calipers that'll go on 14.5" rotors. They're around $510 shipped on Amazon so they're not terribly expensive either, only ~$180 more for the pair than the D52's you posted. Might be worth looking into if you're willing to go with larger wheels. They're built to stop a 556hp 4200 pound sedan (fastest production sedan around Nurburgring), so they'll do even better on a lighter truck.
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Anything that fits under a 15" wheel probably won't be "track oriented" The rotors will be too small. Larger rotors = more leverage from the calipers. You might can find smaller brakes that stop well, but they'll have to work harder so they overheat and fade sooner. You'll probably have more tire options (in truck appropriate sizes) for 18" wheels, and I bet they'd be cheaper too. Most 15" sticky tires are going to have a very small diameter.
The 15" wheel basically limits me to the 11.7" rotors, i dont think much else will fit under a 15" without alot of extra work. After some research, i'm planning on using d/s f150 rotors, wilwood or howe's racing two piston sliders that are bolt-on replacements for the GM d52 that are used in most bolt on kits. The larger aluminum calipers will disperse more heat (by both the greater amount of fluid contained within them and their physical size) and provide superior braking force. Hawk HP plus pads will most likely be used for their superior fade resistance probably with DOT 5 fluid in the system. That's about it for the "off-the-shelf" parts...
Some dedicated and hidden duct work and maybe increasing the reservior of fluid will help reduce the chance of fade and extreme fluid temperatures.
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Laughing Gas
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If you're sticking with 15" wheels, use newer steelies that are designed for disc brakes- the inner bell is larger diameter. Not sure about Ford, but GM had 12" rotors inside 15" rims from the factory starting around 1971. Might could swap your Ford centers into GM (or other 15") barrels if they have more clearance. Have you looked into Aero Racing wheels to see what the ID of their wheels are? Might be larger than stock. Wide-five dirt track wheels/brakes might be an option too, but they won't keep the stock-wheel look. Just throwing ideas out.
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If you're sticking with 15" wheels, use newer steelies that are designed for disc brakes- the inner bell is larger diameter. Not sure about Ford, but GM had 12" rotors inside 15" rims from the factory starting around 1971. Might could swap your Ford centers into GM (or other 15") barrels if they have more clearance. Have you looked into Aero Racing wheels to see what the ID of their wheels are? Might be larger than stock. Wide-five dirt track wheels/brakes might be an option too, but they won't keep the stock-wheel look. Just throwing ideas out.
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If i do keep the straight axle I'll be adding alot of extra negative caster along with some anti-wrap devices. I may also try and play around with a rack and pinion steering...
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