clutch chatter
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clutch chatter
Hello
I just installed a newly rebuilt 390 into my 65 F-100. Also put in a new Ram clutch kit. Flywheel was ground to make sure all was good. Now the clutch chatters upon takeoff in 1st gear, and a little in reverse. Did not do this before. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Jeff
I just installed a newly rebuilt 390 into my 65 F-100. Also put in a new Ram clutch kit. Flywheel was ground to make sure all was good. Now the clutch chatters upon takeoff in 1st gear, and a little in reverse. Did not do this before. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Jeff
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 369
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Same thing for me, same clutch. I just had the flywheel ground, and it was better.....for a couple days. I'm suspecting the clutch a bit. Be sure to check out your spring bushings, driveshaft, motor mounts and cab mounts though. Movement in these areas can cause or at least make the situation much worse.
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This advice may be a bit late now that you have everything installed.
Whenever having a flywheel reground or resurfaced you need to make sure that the face that was ground (clutch face) is ground parallel to the face that bolts onto the crankshaft.
I myself had a bad grind job, The clutch face was running out to the crankshaft face and causing very bad clutch engagement.
Along with checking all bushings, joints and attachment points, do you have the right clutch disc for the flywheel you have on your truck.
Different clutch materials act differently when they are mated to a steel inserted flywheel versus a cast iron flywheel.
Also check to make sure flywheel and clutch mating faces are absolutely clean and free of any oils.
Whenever having a flywheel reground or resurfaced you need to make sure that the face that was ground (clutch face) is ground parallel to the face that bolts onto the crankshaft.
I myself had a bad grind job, The clutch face was running out to the crankshaft face and causing very bad clutch engagement.
Along with checking all bushings, joints and attachment points, do you have the right clutch disc for the flywheel you have on your truck.
Different clutch materials act differently when they are mated to a steel inserted flywheel versus a cast iron flywheel.
Also check to make sure flywheel and clutch mating faces are absolutely clean and free of any oils.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 337
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From: Salkum
What I have found is after bolting up the pressure plate to the flywheel check the fingers that the throwout bearing pushes against. Years ago I had a hard time buying a good one that would not chatter so I called up the local Ford dealer thinking the factory ones would be better quality. After bolting the pressure plate on 1 of the 3 fingers was 1/8" loose. I took off the flywheel and went back to the Ford dealer and showed them. The parts counter guy told me they were having them remanufactured by a local shop in Tacoma that was Ford certified.
I took the assembly down to the shop where they were being remanufactured and they were surprised by the lack of quality control. I bolted on 4 different ones before I found a good one.
Needless to say If I was replacing a clutch again I would be looking at a diaphragm style pressure plate. I have never had one of those chatter even in my old rotten body CJ-5.
I took the assembly down to the shop where they were being remanufactured and they were surprised by the lack of quality control. I bolted on 4 different ones before I found a good one.
Needless to say If I was replacing a clutch again I would be looking at a diaphragm style pressure plate. I have never had one of those chatter even in my old rotten body CJ-5.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 369
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The shop that ground mine did index off of the crankshaft mounting surface. It was pretty good for about a day. It is starting to chatter badly again. I did check the fingers when it was out on a flat surface and didn't see any measurable difference. The body mounts etc certainly are not helping this situation, but the chatter starts as soon as the friction surfaces touch. There is something going on with the surfaces for sure. Something isn't flat or concentric.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2013
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Ok for starters you understand flat and concentric, that's good.
If possible I would put the whole assembly on a bench and start checking from there.
Lay down your flywheel and lay the clutch disc on top of the flywheel.
The disc should lay flat and I mean flat on that flywheel face. I have seen bent clutch discs from poor handling or being dropped.
Check with feeler gages to make sure.
Question,
Does your clutch disc have the springs around the center or is it a solid disc?
Some solid disc's do have a tendency to chatter.
Next I would lay the pressure plate down on a granite table if you can.
Check for flatness under that pressure plate, again using feeler gages.
More questions,
What is this clutch you're trying to use? I know you said a Ram clutch but what is it? A performance clutch, heavier spring force, all that info would help.
If possible I would put the whole assembly on a bench and start checking from there.
Lay down your flywheel and lay the clutch disc on top of the flywheel.
The disc should lay flat and I mean flat on that flywheel face. I have seen bent clutch discs from poor handling or being dropped.
Check with feeler gages to make sure.
Question,
Does your clutch disc have the springs around the center or is it a solid disc?
Some solid disc's do have a tendency to chatter.
Next I would lay the pressure plate down on a granite table if you can.
Check for flatness under that pressure plate, again using feeler gages.
More questions,
What is this clutch you're trying to use? I know you said a Ram clutch but what is it? A performance clutch, heavier spring force, all that info would help.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2013
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Oh I forgot to mention other note worthy items to check out.
Check the pilot bearing.
The bearing should be new if installing a new clutch.
Also check the input shaft of the transmission.
I'm assuming you've got the NP435 4 speed.
The input shaft should free of endplay and wobble or runout.
My 1st 66 F250 had this same problem.
Horrendous clutch chatter. The problem was the input shaft had a thrust bearing that was crushed on the end of the input shaft and main shaft where the 2 shafts come together. The main shaft has a snub on the front of it and that goes inside the back end of the input shaft. There is a set of roller bearings on the diameter and a face bearing (thrust bearing), all this needs to be decent shape otherwise the input shaft will runout.
Check the pilot bearing.
The bearing should be new if installing a new clutch.
Also check the input shaft of the transmission.
I'm assuming you've got the NP435 4 speed.
The input shaft should free of endplay and wobble or runout.
My 1st 66 F250 had this same problem.
Horrendous clutch chatter. The problem was the input shaft had a thrust bearing that was crushed on the end of the input shaft and main shaft where the 2 shafts come together. The main shaft has a snub on the front of it and that goes inside the back end of the input shaft. There is a set of roller bearings on the diameter and a face bearing (thrust bearing), all this needs to be decent shape otherwise the input shaft will runout.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
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Mine is a three on the tree deal. Not sure about OP.
No endplay on the input shaft, but there is runout. I was thinking that was perfectly normal though. You want the pilot centering that shaft without binding on something inside the trans. Most auto trans I have worked on have some runout on the input shaft. I would think they would be very difficult to install if there was none. Am I thinking of this goofy?
No endplay on the input shaft, but there is runout. I was thinking that was perfectly normal though. You want the pilot centering that shaft without binding on something inside the trans. Most auto trans I have worked on have some runout on the input shaft. I would think they would be very difficult to install if there was none. Am I thinking of this goofy?
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