I have a 2005 E-150 cargo van. I have what looks like surface rust on portions of the drip rails. The paint is not sticking to the sealer installed by the factory. The rust extends about 3/8" on the roof panel in some places. What methods can i use to slow down the rust? I must act now, before it gets any worse. I appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks to all...jack

 

Remove all of the loose rust with sand paper, clean it with brake cleaner (brakleen) then brush it with naval jelly (any napa or good parts house will have it). Trust me when I say naval jelly is an amazing potion. Then depending on the type of naval jelly (follow the manufacturers instructions) you can either paint over it or rinse/chip away the stuff after it has run it's course. For treatment after the rust has been mitigated, use a high zinc content primer and/or paint. The zinc will help keep the rust away.

 

I should clarify, the stuff you paint over is actually rust inverter. It's zinc rich and dries rock hard. Works awesome but leaves you with a thick layer of black paint/ceramic like material - Usually you can chip it off and you'll have a super clean rust free surface left.

 

Advance Auto has matching spray paint (assuming Oxford White like most of us have) that is inexpensive and works really well. On my previous van I sanded and painted it and it looked great. I didn't even try very hard- just knocked it out real quick: and the results were very pleasing. I have to do my current van soon. Maybe I'll try the naval jelly idea.

Side note- the touch up paint makes a good difference painting other things as well. I used it on inside of doors, bottom of door jambs, and other inside areas that are scratched up inside the van. I recommend doing interior of cargo doors. Spend some time masking and then go crazy with the white paint and you will love the results!

 

UPDATE
It has been six months since i treated the rust on my drip rails. I followed the advice i was given by you guys. I scuffed the loose rust and cleaned the area. Then i treated it with 2 coats of Permatex Rust Converter. I brush painted it with 2 coats of Rustoleum bright white enamel paint. (available in
small quantities for about $4 at walmart. After 6 months, it looks great. I am very happy. Thanks, guys....jack

 

Brushed on paint? I need to do this on my 2006 before it gets any worse too.

 

Yes. brushed on paint. I only painted about 1 1/2" all the way around the drip rail. My van was white and the paint matched almost perfectly. Besides, you have to be nine feet tall to see where i painted. The important thing was the rust was stopped. ....jack

 

Thanks for the followup, Jack. My '02 has spent its whole life outdoors in Michigan and the drip rails have lost much of the paint. Last year, it wasn't getting up in the roof sheet metal but after our last miserable and very salty winter, I gotta get up on a ladder and see what I've got. If it's looking scary, I'll try to make the time to do the rust neutralizer and paint treatment.

Oxford white of course. EZ to touch up but bad if you're getting rust. My wife's last 2 cars were a '91 Grand Prix and a '98 Sable, both white and both of which we kept somewhat over 100k miles, and I did some spray paint touch ups and paint cleaning before I sold both of them.... God bless non-metallic white for touchup ease!

Thanks,
George

 

If trying to stop rust in the longer term I'd highly, highly recommend products by POR-15. It's not cheap but as a one-time solution what's its real worth?

Tons of interesting info and articles about POR-15, even here in our own Paint & Bodywork forums. I have experience with this, areas treated two years ago are still rust free without any top coating at all. Its not pretty but since its all covered up that's not a concern.

Anyone considering POR-15 would be well advised using the aluminum "color" because it has a huge solids content.

Additionally if POR-15's preparation instructions are followed you'll have trouble free results.

 

JWA, you gave just enough info to get my interest, but not enough to help me follow through.
more details please!

Also, why would you suggest "aluminum color" for (what i assume to be most commonly) Oxford White work vans?

I know you'll set me straight- thanks in advance buddy.

 

Is that flattery or complaining?

The aluminum color consists of a wonderfully ridiculous high solids content which translates into superior coverage and base metal protection. While the other POR-15 colors are also high in solids content (as compared to most "paint") their silver or aluminum is the highest. When first opening a can there is at least 1/2" of a thick paste on the bottom, nothing more than those solids settling out from sitting over even a short time. This is good, if not great!

My suggestion was to use the aluminum color as the first coating, which actually entails a double coat at first, essentially the "base coat". Because POR-15 is so unaffected by UV and weather conditions in general AND that I don't want to refinish anything not absolutely necessary its fine to leave those two coats of aluminum alone, no top coating of the van color if desired. (It's a labor and money saving thing for me.)

For me if its on the roof only traffic surveillance aircraft and nosey people with second floors can see my van's roof---not a huge downside if it looks different than the sides.

POR-15 can be top coated or painted with any automotive finish without any compatibility issues or conflicts. This is primarily because it undergoes a curing process the effects a chemical change, not a change of state as many cheaper finishes achieve. Think of water as it becomes steam, liquid or a solid--those are changes of state and easily reversed.

Epoxy OTOH is two components that once cured becomes a third material that is permanent.

So that's the reasoning behind my madness!

 

Definitely flattery!
And thanks for the details.

 

Send me some reps then! (<<< Shameless plug for ME! )

And thanks ----glad to share what little I do know!