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I always pree lube components . U joints , ball joints .ect . I have seen many U joints come dry , with only a thin film of oil . Some ball joints are the same way ! The only suspension parts I do not pre e lube are sealed units . They should be factory lubed .
I used a ball joint press harbor freight unit not very good but does work. I did have to hit the bottom one a couple times with a hammer though but had one of the pieces of the press on the joint and hit it with a hammer.
I see I had to hit mine But I did it with the press installed on it
I would turn it until I couldn't turn any more and give it a Whack on the screw end and turn more till I couldn't and repeat
That ranger I redid the Previous Guy Had No Press at ALL Just a Waffle Head Framing Hammer LOL and they were BEAT almost to the point of being unusable Plus they didn't Seat they seamed to work OK so I just reinstalled them
Needless to say the Owner was Pissed when I told them
But I had a Feeling yours were not like that since they were able to return them
Now is it Both SIdes that are hard to turn???
If so and with all the different Balljoints you tried Im thinking an Install Problem
Maybe the torq wrench is Off or something IDK
I wouldn't NOT Torq them though its Not a part you want to fail going down road Do you know anyone with a torq wrench you can borrow to torq and check your against??
How hard is it to turn??? they should have alittle resistence but not to hard
[quote=reh4960;13674781]I will try another torq wrench. the resistance is enough that I have to use both hands to turn it.[/quote]
Ya that's Too Much WAY Too MUCH
Are you shure the Torq wrench is being set right???
Seams Like on mine one side is Ft/LBS and the Other side is Metric IIRC
Almost has to be torq wrench deal with the Above (Quote)
And just to be shure you torq out and then just tighten enough to get the Cotter Pin in the Castle Nut Right?? I fell your probably doing it right though
There should be Slight resistence and able to Move with 1 hand