03 ball joint binding issues

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Oct 27, 2013 | 08:19 PM

#16

JWC 3

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Joined: Dec 2012

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From: Tennessee

Quote:

Originally Posted by Restlesswildman

So lube before insertion and torquing?

I always pree lube components . U joints , ball joints .ect . I have seen many U joints come dry , with only a thin film of oil .

Some ball joints are the same way ! The only suspension parts I do not pre e lube are sealed units . They should be factory lubed .

Oct 27, 2013 | 08:41 PM

#17

BLADE35

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From: Saratoga Springs,UT

Quote:

Originally Posted by reh4960

Just steering knuckle nothing else. moog torque specs are the same as ford on these ones 150ft/lbs bottom and 70ft/lbs top.

We are running out of Options VERY VERY Fast

I remember I had to use a Dremal tool to Clean the steering knuckle up a little so it would Fulley Seat the BJ into the Knuckle

I had my truck completely put back together then I greased the BJ and went for a Test ride and things was Fine

My Moogs had a little resistence when I turned the steering knucle by hand nothing out the ordinary and just fine Driving

SO Are you using a Ball Joint Press to Install them??? And able to get the spring clamp on them?? IIRC the Bottom ones

Or are you Beating them in with a Hammer

Oct 27, 2013 | 08:48 PM

#18

Restlesswildman

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From: SW Ohio

Oh I havent used a hammer in years on ball joints....but it does make for a fun time using one when your frustrated

Oct 27, 2013 | 09:13 PM

#19

reh4960

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I used a ball joint press harbor freight unit not very good but does work. I did have to hit the bottom one a couple times with a hammer though but had one of the pieces of the press on the joint and hit it with a hammer.

Oct 27, 2013 | 09:31 PM

#20

BLADE35

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From: Saratoga Springs,UT

I see I had to hit mine But I did it with the press installed on it

I would turn it until I couldn't turn any more and give it a Whack on the screw end and turn more till I couldn't and repeat

That ranger I redid the Previous Guy Had No Press at ALL Just a Waffle Head Framing Hammer LOL and they were BEAT almost to the point of being unusable Plus they didn't Seat they seamed to work OK so I just reinstalled them

Needless to say the Owner was Pissed when I told them

But I had a Feeling yours were not like that since they were able to return them

Now is it Both SIdes that are hard to turn???

If so and with all the different Balljoints you tried Im thinking an Install Problem

Maybe the torq wrench is Off or something IDK

I wouldn't NOT Torq them though its Not a part you want to fail going down road Do you know anyone with a torq wrench you can borrow to torq and check your against??

How hard is it to turn??? they should have alittle resistence but not to hard

Oct 27, 2013 | 11:00 PM

#21

reh4960

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I will try another torq wrench. the resistance is enough that I have to use both hands to turn it.

Oct 27, 2013 | 11:32 PM

#22

BLADE35

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From: Saratoga Springs,UT

Well 150 ft/lbs is getting Up there

I just don't know if a BJ isn't seating right or Torq wrench issues maybe Steering knuckle issues

But All those BJ Couldnt have Been Bad I would think anyways

Oct 27, 2013 | 11:38 PM

#23

BLADE35

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From: Saratoga Springs,UT

[quote=reh4960;13674781]I will try another torq wrench. the resistance is enough that I have to use both hands to turn it.[/quote]

Ya that's Too Much WAY Too MUCH

Are you shure the Torq wrench is being set right???

Seams Like on mine one side is Ft/LBS and the Other side is Metric IIRC

Almost has to be torq wrench deal with the Above (Quote)

And just to be shure you torq out and then just tighten enough to get the Cotter Pin in the Castle Nut Right?? I fell your probably doing it right though

There should be Slight resistence and able to Move with 1 hand