If I am miscategorizing this, my apologies. Let me know.

I have a 98 Ranger, which was bought 3 years ago, ghetto lowered. I lifted it back to stock after the suspension was torn up last year. Then earlier this year it was in an accident, I was given a haircut across the front. Here is its current state.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10505267623/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10505089864/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10505071966/
I have finally laid my hands on a donor truck in parts. I will be picking it up Monday. The frame has a bend behind the bumper. I will be rewelding the frame from the other truck onto it. Then making sure its straight. I will be taking the motor out to rebuild it while I have the front of the frame off. I am adding a whole lot of upgrades such as a bore, turbo, Stage 4 clutch, and other parts. Already setup for a 3 inch lift too. Check back for weekly updates!

 

Bore and turbo are mutually exclusive. Sounds to me like you need to do some homework before going that route.

 

Sir, I have already done my homework. Lol. Thanks to some help from Jesse Warren/Powerdog. H1C Holset Turbo, 90mm Maf, upgrading the fuel pump, 42 pound injectors, turbo forged pistons, 38mm wastegate, stinger turbo header, intercooler kit already purchased, SCT tuner. Besides a few details, cause I am taking it a slightly diff route, that is a start to my list of parts. I am not dumb good sir, I have been homeworking this route for 2 months. This is also not my first build. But thanks for the input! I hope that cleared your doubt up some.

 

K, then why bore the block? The original 2.3L turbo blocks were a nickel alloy for added strength, and the maximum you can bore them over without filling the block is .040 over, and thats compromising them. The N/A 2.3L and the 2.5L blocks are not made with the stronger nickel alloy, so .030 over is pushing it. You don't overbore turbo blocks unless cylinder wall damage deems it necessary, the performance of a turbo setup is based on the amount of boost and the volumetric efficiency, not the displacement. If you haven't bored it yet, and you don't need to, don't.

The rest of the stuff sounds great. Good luck on the build. You are definitely more on top of this than most the morons who try to turbocharge on stock internals and stock injectors. The vast majority of those posting the ambitious projects here are in way over their heads.

 

Well I see what you are saying and sorry for the misinterpretation. Lol. This is not my first rodeo and I did my research well. I am aware of the bore deal, which is why its only getting .20 over. I have to do it cause I have some cylinder damage from some crappy rings placed in there from the last owner. Lol. So a simple hone will not be able to work on this one like the Metro I just did.

There will not be much stock. Its receiving turbo forged 2.3L stock pistons, reg 2.3l rods, 2.3 crank, I have not situated on a cam yet. I am literally upgrading it all. No part left behind! Lol. Thanks for the support! I will be throwing up pics of the parts ranger tomorrow when I roll it in. Then I will get the trucks torn down and the motor and trans pulled out so I can begin reconstruction of them in the basement.

After the motor is out I can safely measure and cut the bad front end frame damage off, cut the good off the other, and weld it onto mine. Got lucky with the parts truck and its white to match my truck. So it works great!

 

Ok, good to hear. The 2.3L turbo going into my Merkur had to be bored .020 over as well because the previous owner ran it lean an melted a piston. The 2.3L turbo currently in my T-bird is stock bore, when I rebuilt it (blown head gasket due to previous owner running one injector mismatched to the others) it only needed a rehone and new rings, so I kept the bore stock.

On a cam, lots of choices, just let me tell you that the stock Ranger cams suck for turbo. They are built for low end torque, which you don't get because of the low compression, and right as the turbo is kicking in, the cam is starting to restrict. I have a Ranger cam in my -t-bird currently (mostly for the reliability of of roller cam), but want to switch to Bo-Port 1.5 at the nearest opportunity. Not sure what the cam options are on yours, I think the cams will work on the 2.5L head, but don't quote me on that.

 

Right right, the cylinder wall in two of them are messed up from the cheapy piston rings purchased by the last owner. No biggy, I had no intention of going over .20.

Ya, there should be tons of choices, just gotta narrow down whats gonna get me the best output. I def don't want the stock cam. I need an upgrade for sure in that department. All depends on what gets me the best bang for my buck when its time to buy it.

Here is my parts Ranger. 99, no motor, trans, nor bed. Has every piece I will need to repair the frame and body.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10548131655/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10548362623/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10548128556/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/10548355793/
Pretty good for $370 after the cost of moving it to me.

 

Tomorrow I will begin the teardown to inspect exactly where the damage is at on the frame.

 

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any updates ?

 

I have been dismantling the parts ranger. I had to take a stop to top off the metro and pickup a truck.

 

Finally been able to get crackin at the parts ranger. The subframe, where the headlights attach to, runs as a clip like to the edge of the cab. There are no rivets holding it to the cabs framing. Soo...I am thinking maybe it is cliched metal? Which I can just reattach it to the other Ranger with rivets and welds. But to unattach that I would need to drill out the clinched spots correct? I am assuming so. I will be working on it some more tomorrow getting the one dismantled and the engine pulled from the other.

Something I discovered also was when I was hit and looking at this parts ranger frame, there is this pinch up in front of the control arm mounting bracket and the bumper, will post a pic tomorrow. But the way it is pinched it looks like an on purpose design. In case of my kind of accident or head on accident it would collapse between the two pinches to decrease damage to the truck. Anybody know about this?

Again, will post some pics tomorrow once I have more of the ranger dismantled. Waiting on my friend to drop off his engine hoist for me to borrow, since mine was stolen. Lol.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11552577406/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11552517875/This is a pic of some of the outlined marks that I am assuming to be "clinched metal".

Am I correct in that is what that is?

 

Here I am at the welding stage. Here are some more updated pics on progress.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11913348324/I ended up going with just cutting it off at a good spot where its not bent on my truck.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11913349784/Passenger side bend in main frame. I am cutting and rewelding the good one on in the middle of the control arm bracket.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11913354104/Here is the driver side bend further up. I am cutting and rewelding that at in the middle of the stabilizer bracket.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11913176623/This is before I removed the subframe off of my Ranger. Pretty nasty damage.


I will be installing brand new stabilizer links and will be putting on my new upper ball joints since I have the control arm already removed, this will make it easier to press the old ones out and the new ones in. I will be using the stabilizer bar from the parts ranger with its bushings since its in perfectly good shape. Other than those parts, there is nothing else broken on there. Weld the new portions of frame on, and then get everything bolted back together. That is if my welding guy shows up...

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11931519296/http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11931117264/

Welded the new stuff on, have to do some bending today as I put the fenders, hood, bumper, and grill back on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55284637@N08/11931114474/

 

I have discovered that I made a calculation error in the subframe. I made the drivers side an inch too long. Lol. Time to get some new measurements from the junkyard.

I also have to bend the passenger side main frame end a tad to fit the bumper on properly. Oh boy! But other than that it is coming along greatly!