That was in response to 10W30 and warm temps...

I use 5W40, 10W30, 15W40 all equally.

October to December and March and April is usually 10W30 and December thru March is 5W40. Although I currently have ordered the new Rotella 0W40 to try out.

Summer I use 15W40 usually.

Josh

 

Interesting how this thread turned into an oil debate.

After examining the temp ranges in the owners manual, it looked like 10-30 would cover the most of the temps we will encounter. As far as cold starting, the truck sits in an insulated, but I heated garage attached to the house. I would guess at the coldest the garage only gets into the 20s, maybe teens. Even when it is negative outside. Summer heat can get to near 100. But considering all that, the truck rarely pulls a load, and when it does it is not at the extreme ends of the tempature.

 

10w30 is more than adequate. The side point was the length of time the truck will sit and synthetics handle that better.

Josh

 

How do you know he's referring to the old formula?

So why am I buying and everyone recommending 5w40 if T5 is so much cheaper?

 

We've probably had a couple hundred oil threads posted here and none of them have gotten any farther than this one. Time to solve the worlds politcs.
Please pass the beer.

 

Because Roadrunner is ways referring the original Rotella 5W40 and not the newer T6.

The Rotella T5 10W30 is a fantastic oil.

Josh

 

I was able to post what I did because for an oil to meet any grade/spec it has minimum viscosity numbers to meet, and knowing this I didn't have the time to look up specs when posting (thanks 99 expy) I really don't think that anyone could tell the difference between a 5w-40 & 10w-30 cold starting.

I was only trying to contribute and not trying to start an "oil war", and not so much of a brand vs. brand but which viscosity. 10w-30 has worked quite well for me for over 100,000 mi. towing and hauling in summer heat making 300mi. round trips at 7,500 mi. OCI, with UOA evidence to support my claim. I do UOA every OC as I caught a leaky injector o-ring several years ago. If anyone were to have an issue using 10w-30 in an 6.0 it would be me as I have several years of using it year around.

When you calculate when most are changing oil at 5,000 mi. or sooner and paying more per gallon without getting anymore protection-wise it just doesn't add up, at least by my math. When I tried the 5w-40 and seen my wear numbers shoot up and I was paying more per gallon it just didn't add up.

I do know there are several guys here and elsewhere running the Shell, Chevron, Amsoil and others 10w-30 without issue, I don't know if they are running 7,500 mi and have UOA's but there was a thread here about a year ago on this topic with over 1,000 posts, I don't remember the title but there were several UOA's posted there along with one of mine. It would be a very good read for anyone interested.

 

Well, you guys might have had 100's or 1000's of arguments about oil, but after what roadrunner and Bullit have posted... consider it 'settled' for me.

I'm switching to a 10w30 Rotella T5.

 

To the OP,
Always use Motorcraft Filters on this engine & while iam not wanting to contribute to the Oil weight war I would strongly suggest a Synthetic considering the truck sits alot
Oh yeah & considering Battery Voltage is so important to these Diesel engines i would also spend a few bucks on a "Deltran Battery Tender" i have a JR model which is hard wired into my Truck (sits alot too) & i love how easy it is, plus the Batteries are always tip-top

 

OK, finally got back over to the lake to check this out. It was a Fram filter and if you can tell in the attached picture was a little shorter than the Motorcraft. I think what the "problem" was at Wal Mart is that the OEM cap snaps on real hard to the Fram filter. I replaced the cap with a new one anyway and Motorcraft filter. Truck only had 17 miles on it since the oil change, so even if it was bypassing a little bit, it was not many miles.

Lesson learned!
Chris

 

Thanks for the update! Was hoping it was an easy fix.

 

Did you remove the adaptor piece from the standpipe?

http://www.framheavyduty.com/sites/d...tification.pdf



Josh

 

Wasn't one there... The Fram filter look identical to the Motorcraft filter in design, except for being just a smidge shorter. Also, I looked in the Fram filter boxes at Walmart and don't recall seeing this piece in them. Will double check the standpipe before leaving the lake.

Chris

 

The older Fram is a Racor/Motorcraft and the newer Fram is a *******ized version that uses adaptor pieces.

Both are still available in stores.

Does your filter say Fram?

Josh

 

I believe he purchases a motorcraft filter and cap. Just needs to make sure that's all that is in there, no adapter.