He said he lives in Minnesota. 90f summer heat is not the issue. I'd run the 5w40 full synthetic.

 

You are leaving the impression that Minnesota has snow 12 months a year when actually their summer weather is very comparable to mine here in Ohio.

10w-30 is almost the forgotten grade as far as HDEO's go, its cold-flow properties are nearly identical to a 5w-40 and its MUCH more shear-stable compared to any 5w-40 at half the price.

I have had zero issue running out to 7,500 mi. OCI and currently have 191.000 mi. on my 6.0. My own UOA's confirm no issue with 30 wt. protection as with over 100,000 mi using 10w-30 if there were going to be any issues they would have shown up long before now.

 

Rotella T5 10W30 and T6 5W40 have nearly identical cold properties, however, the straight dino Rotella 10W30 has almost no difference compared to Rotella 15W40 in regards to pour point etc.

No doubt the Deere 10W30 would have better characteristics versus the Deere Plus 50 15W40, but that isn't the case across the board with other refiners.

Josh

Josh

 

I stopped by the Ford dealer today and got a new cap and filter. Was driving the Cobra and picked up a couple 820S filters for that.

Pulled up in front of the dealership, got out of the car and some young kid said, " Can I help you?". Almost wanted to launch into a diatribe about needing parts, but nicely said, "No, just need parts".

Don't know if the end of month pressure was getting to him, he thought I was there to get a new GT500 or what. Kinda weird...

 

I wasn't looking into the summer temps at all, I was referring to his 'Northern Minnesota' and 'cold' statements. Add to the fact that Minnesota is north of the northern most point in Ohio and well... apples to apples just isn't in the equation. (His lake house is in Northern Minnesota too where lows hit in the negatives) Throw in the 'snow plow' comments and the HEUI on the 6.0 and I still say 5w40. Negative temperatures and cold starts? Yep 5w40. I still like learning, and I still have a long way to go, so I'm willing to listen if you have more information. Help me understand this 10w30 and 5w40 argument.

 

As I stated already the cold-flow properties between a 5w-40 and 10w-30 are nearly identical, close enough that seat of the pants couldn't be able to tell the difference.

There is a perception that "syn is better" in this application, I'm sorry I just haven't seen the evidence to convince me of that as I've been in a 6.0 since early '04 with close to 350,000 mi. combined in two different trucks.
I have UOA data from both trucks and the worst performer wear metal wise was a 5w-40 I ran for 3 consectitive runs several years ago.
I also have never had to change an injector in either truck or had any oil related issue.

To the OP, hopefully you get your filter issue resolved and enjoy your lake truck and don't fear the 10w-30 as it will protect just fine.

 

Interesting, I'll make the switch next time I change my oil (I still have some T6 to use up, but I'll do the T5 first and see what happens.) I have a Blackstone kit that I plan on using after this T6 oil change. I'll post the results after 5,000 miles.

Just to be clear, you do mean the syn blend T5 10w30 and not the regular dino oil right?

 

I do not use Shell products as that was the 5w-40 I was referring to with the sub-par UOA's on my 6.0. I'm sure that the regular 10w-30 will perform just as good in our trucks as their T5 10w-30 does, I am not aware of their specs but a syn isn't needed. You stated you already have it on hand yes I would use it.

My oil of choice is John Deere plus 50 II 10w-30, its by design an extended drain lube, hence the "Plus 50" in the name. I have used it in my trucks and equipment for over 20 years, as its competitively priced with its competition.

I am well aware that there are thousands of forum members who will swear by Rotella, I tried it and it just didn't work out as I had hoped it would per UOA evidence. I'm a stickler for the details and it was a classic case of the grass being greener on the other side of the fence. Reading on here and other places of the benefits of 5w-40, I tried it for three consectitive runs at 7,500 mi., as I had always run and the UOA results were sub-par.

There are many oil companys that offer a 10w-30, even Chevron is offering a 5w-30 LE HDEO. I read the article and I don't know pricing or availability.
So to reinterate, a syn isn't needed in the 6.0 for long term protection, or for the injectors.

For the most part the term "syn" is nothing more than a merketing word until you move up the ladder to the boutique brands anyways.

 

So far, you have me convinced, and I'll verify it with my Blackstone samples as well. How often do you do your samples? Every other oil change? (15,000 miles) Every oil change?

I guess I'll run this oil for 7,500 and then switch to John Deere plus 50 II 10w-30 and run those samples. It shouldn't take me too long. I've put 8,000 miles on my truck since July 31st.

 

Check this out...


............. Plus 50 II ...... Delvac 1300Super ...Delo 400LE ....Rotella T5
VISCOSITY
@40C..............80.1.............79............. ......80...................78.9
@100C.............12.1.............12............. ......12...................12
VIS INDEX........133..............148................. .145.................147
POUR POINT.......-40..............-33..................-27................-42
FLASH POINT......223..............215..................2 04...............224
TBN...............10.5..............8.6........... .......8.7...................10
SULFATED ASH.......1................ .99.................1..................1
HTHS...............3.6..............3.6........... ......???..................3.5 (actual unknown but per API spec for grade)

 

For the record the original blend of Rotella 5W40 is and was different than the current T6 5W40. You're comparing apples to oranges there.

Second, if you aren't aware of the specs how can you formulate an opinion and then tell everyone it's fact?

When dino Rotella 10W30 and 15W40 both have the exact cold flow characteristics how could the 10W30 be that much superior?

The T5 10W30 is the one with identical specs to the T6 5W40.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...US)_TDS_v1.pdf

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...CA)_TDS_v1.pdf

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...CA)_TDS_v1.pdf

http://theoilnet.com/Atlantic-States...0W30-10W40.pdf

Josh

 

At my previous company we used Deere 15W40 and 10W30 for the longest time before switching to Rotella. You could Definately notice a difference compared to using Chevron or Mobil 15W40 and 10W30 during cold crank.

Josh

 

To the OP, a 10w30 diesel oil is NOT RECOMENDED for summer use or towing, or plowing. Given the lake use, plowing, a better oil is likely 5w40 full synthetic. I doubt this truck will need oil changes more than once a year, so that is why I suggest. This engine uses a high pressure oil to actuate fuel injectors. HEUI injectors with incorrect oil can cause problems. Especially suggest the synthetic oil for short trips, idle times in winter, hard on everything, prevents dilution from to much idle time. Before I switched to synthetic, I used 10w30 Motorcraft in winter, better cold starts, but when I needed to work it, had to change to 15-40. I am saying all this to protect the truck, it is as discussed not the best for long periods sitting, ect. But, if looked after, you can get lots of service from it.

 

Josh

 

Josh, are you saying the 15W-40 is preferred? Also 10W-40 and 5W-40 are acceptable?

Im confused. Guess I better stick with my 15W-40