Strange running issues
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From: North wales , PA and nj
Strange running issues
Okay the truck will drive okay. And then all of a sudden it will start having heavy run ability issues. If you try and go over 60 miles an hour it just has a real heavy vibration and you eventually have to get off the road and find out what code came up. I've replaced a sensor that I've called four and we are looking at every possible option we could have and figuring out what is going on with my truck. It only has 116,000 miles on it. We've been thinking about possibly a H pop? We ran a scanner on it and it said the injectors were working each one of the cylinders all eight of working together A couple times and it actually showed a code boost or correction it showed low boost. And the tester was actually indicating the feel injector's are working fine and the glow plug igniter's are working to. I don't know I myself am lost and so is the mechanic because he doesn't really do much with diesels. Replaced the fuel filter and double checked the oil level and everything is good. So please ask whatever questions you guys are going to ask because I know you will which is why I come here because usually everybody here is very very helpful.
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From: Stephensville WI
Power Strokes come in many flavors, like 7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L or 6.7L, depending on what year your truck was made.
OK, you have a 7.3L Power Stroke.
I am moving your post to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine forum to get you some help.
OK, you have a 7.3L Power Stroke.
I am moving your post to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine forum to get you some help.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
Hi wiccantoy, you're in good shape now. You have a mechanic with an engine scanner there and the collective knowledge of many owners/mechanics here.
Heavy vibration at 60 MPH? What happens when you let off the throttle at 60 MPH? Consider this: The injectors shut off when you coast in gear at highway speeds. A vibration under this condition may have nothing to do with the engine. I'm assuming it's a stick shift.
Heavy vibration at 60 MPH? What happens when you let off the throttle at 60 MPH? Consider this: The injectors shut off when you coast in gear at highway speeds. A vibration under this condition may have nothing to do with the engine. I'm assuming it's a stick shift.
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From: North wales , PA and nj
I've gone from being in drive with overdrive off than all of a sudden it will start its crap. We replaced the fuel filter. And I figured I would try overdrive and as soon as I hit the peddle past half throttle it would start it all again. Sounds like there are loose cans running in the engine. Don't really know How to explain it all. We pulled the fuel filter canister off and the dome above the h pop and there was some loose set ament in there which was y I was thinking the high pressure oil pump.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
Bad vibration and loose cans. Probably no smoke. Under Valve Cover Harness is popping up as a suspect in my head. A very common issue is to have no or intermittent connection to the injectors or glow plugs because of the UVCH. You can do an easy test for this one:
On the driver side (over the valve cover), there is a 42-pin connector that has all the electrical connections to the engine. Spin the 10mm bolt out in the middle (keys in your pocket, not the ignition) and pull the connector. You will see the part pictured below. The common for the driver side is D+ (passenger side is P+), and all the solenoid coils on the driver side are even-numbered. Check the ohms to each coil in relation to the respective common. They should all read very close to the same.
On the driver side (over the valve cover), there is a 42-pin connector that has all the electrical connections to the engine. Spin the 10mm bolt out in the middle (keys in your pocket, not the ignition) and pull the connector. You will see the part pictured below. The common for the driver side is D+ (passenger side is P+), and all the solenoid coils on the driver side are even-numbered. Check the ohms to each coil in relation to the respective common. They should all read very close to the same.
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first thing i would check is fuel pressure.
To check fuel pressure on the back of the fuel bowl there is a plug that is removed with a allen head. Find the correct adapter and fuel pressure gauge and insert. The best would be a fuel pressure gauge with a long enough hose to run out the top of the hood by the windshield so it can be seen while driving. Then check pressure at idle and while driving. The pressure at idle should be around 50-60 PSI and while driving is shouldnt get below 40-45. if you have low pressure check lift pump and FPR.
To check fuel pressure on the back of the fuel bowl there is a plug that is removed with a allen head. Find the correct adapter and fuel pressure gauge and insert. The best would be a fuel pressure gauge with a long enough hose to run out the top of the hood by the windshield so it can be seen while driving. Then check pressure at idle and while driving. The pressure at idle should be around 50-60 PSI and while driving is shouldnt get below 40-45. if you have low pressure check lift pump and FPR.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
I could be wrong, but I don't think there's a lift pump on the 450. Going below 1/4 tank can cause something like this if the fuel supply system needs service - but I'm getting the impression this is under multiple scenarios and is random.
IF the UVCH is the issue after you ohm out the 42-pin connector, then there are two possible solutions:
IF the UVCH is the issue after you ohm out the 42-pin connector, then there are two possible solutions:
- Many do what's called the "fifty-cent mod", where they cut two washers or two quarters and insert one in each UVCH lock to hold it in place. I did this and it failed on me.
- If this is a money-earning truck, I would urge you to get new OEM harnesses and be done with it.