I just purchased a 2001 Super cab ford v10 8inch lift with 37 inch tires. I have not really driven this thing as the head gaskets were shot. I noticed it didn't shift very well is that because the motor was in limp mode? also the heads were not cracked or anything but 4 valves were bent and most or all the exhaust valves wouldn't close all the way. There was so much carbon on everything. I took a bronze wire wheel brush to the piston tops and the head surface. Was that a bad idea? I have never seen so much carbon build up. it was crazy. The good news is there is no scaring in the cylinder walls.

Is there anything recommended I do while I have the heads off to improve anything? Im thinking i should do headers and maybe do a true dual exhaust. Is it worth it to do that? Cold air intake seems to provide no advantage over stock. Im just trying to get an idea of improvements while everything is off and easily accessible.

 

ok first off with that much carbon build up i have to take into question how bad the rest of the motor is. is it worth saving if the motor was neglected, " id hate to see you stick all that money in the top end just to spin a bearing on the bottom in 6 months".

second i personally think v-10s sound absolutely retarded piped. " every thing i own is has modded exhaust except my v-10" that being said if my cats became pluged i would not hesitate to cut them out bc they are expensiv and there are no o2 sensors behind them so no ch eng light

 

Well I would have said before you tore it apart, run some Seafoam through it, that would have cleared out the majority of that carbon. Yeah I probably wouldn't wire wheel any of the piston heads, walls, etc. I would use a solvent to take care of that. I know that Bronze is softer then the metal used, but I would still be afraid to use anything except solvent.

 

I was wondering the same about the bottom end. I just got the majority of the build up off. the rest i'm gonna use solvent. 450.00 to rebuild the heads wasn't too bad I didn't think. I have never torn the bottom end of a motor apart. Can I do this with the motor in the truck still or do I need to remove it? Is there a way to tell or at least get an idea maybe by taking the pan off?

I do know when I was looking at it there was barely any oil on the stick so when It got delivered to my house i put some oil in it and it smells very burnt. it ran smooth other than the obvious misfire and antifreeze build up smoking through out the exhaust. I've already got the heads being rebuilt. I spent about 250 for all the gaskets and bolts.

i was looking at motors but even the ones with almost 200k miles they wanted almost 2k for them. thought that was a little high. the only bolts that were tight throughout the whole tear down were the head bolts so maybe that accounts for the massive carbon build up?

you are right i don't want to put all the effort into he heads if the bottom is gonna go out in a few months. I asked the guy after i started the tear down if he had been in there at all because everything was loose. I didn't want to waste my time with all this work to end up having to put a new motor in. he naturally didn't respond.

 

low oil, burnt, lose parts, how much did u pay for this thing? i would do nothing less then freshen up the motor

 

2500.00 I was figuring 1000 to 1500 and my time for repairs. so far i'm only 250 more than expected with repairs I have done so far and thats the extra cost of the head rebuild but at least I get a 12 month warranty on the heads. it just sucks I have no lift nothing to pull the motor out with. so i'm kinda constricted unless i pay to have it towed to a shop have them do the bottom end and have it towed back. maybe I can call a mobile repair man to get him to pick the motor out and set it in my garage?

I don't mind fixing stuff. I just wanted something paid off. just got rid of my 500 dollar a month tacoma. so it worth it to me. plus i don't drive cars and trucks much. I ride my motorcycle most of the time. The body and interior is in great shape. i cant post pictures or else i would.

 

I feel kind of dumb I just found a complete engine rebuild kit for 800.00 includes pistons, bearings, and all the seals I just bought. would this be a route to go? or do the bearing and ring kit for about 400.00?

 

do the kit and go buy a engine hoist, they are around $100

 

buy a rebuilt motor and send in what you have as a core. unless you are going to dye penetrate test everything, true out the crank, acid bath the heads and block.

Ive rebuilt a few motors in my day and to do it right you need a decent shop and plenty of time.

Not to say you couldn't do it...but the folks who rebuild engines do that every day. save your self the gremlin chasing later on.

 

If the cylinders look good and there are no huge oil leaks, I'd put the heads back on and run it. At this point, go for it. I would skip the headers and intake mods, esp. if the motor turns out to be junk.

 

I'm seriously concerned at this point. You have an engine where Before you purchase anything, you need to find out why the exhaust valves are not closing and why you have you have 4 bent valves.

A rebuild kit may not be appropriate, as at this point you still have no answered the basic question of how the engine was damaged, you don't know what inside the engine is damaged (for instance, is your crankshaft rebuildable? Are your rods OK?) and you do not know what you need to do to fix the engine andprevent further damage.

While rebuilding the heads is probably in your future, rebuilding them and throwing them back on this block may just bend 4 more valves.

Lastly, forget the modifications right now. You need to fix what you have before you start changing things.

My advice is to remove the engine and have it torn down by someone who knows what to look for, like an automotive machinist. Based on what is found, then you can come up with a plan for fixing it.

 

Geez, Lets give it to the guy who tackling something thats a major overtaking. Clearly he's not asking where some random bolt goes, he seems to be following some set of instructions he found pretty good. I applaud you, because as others have said and as your finding out tearing motors apart ain't easy.

As others have said above, try and find out why there were 4 bent valves. I assume the reason the exhaust valves weren't closing were because of carbon. With that being said, trail and error is a good way to go with these things. Go on craigslist and find a used engine stand for 100-200. I'm sure you have all the tools available, but If you don't have a torquing wrench, go get one, as you won't be able to put that motor back together properly without one.

Anywho, pictures would be nice. Keep us updated.

 

I would rotate the engine and check the piston s, to be sure they all come to top dead center.
I believe the reason for the bent valves may have been caused by coolant in the cylinders , from the bad head gaskets.
In my 55 years, I have had my hands on many engine projects, and have had excellent results doing exactly what you are doing.
The reason I mention the piston s all coming to tdc is to be sure you have no bent rods.
Good luck and take your time reassembling your engine.

 

If the motor was this bad on the top end the bottom is just a worse I'd pull the block have a machine shop go over it for a couple hundred dollars and put it in a steam bath then rebuild it, change oil ever 3-4k and never worry again. Then remove that junk 8" lift and tires and put something more subtle like 4" lift and 35's

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