With the problems, spark plugs, exhaust manifold bolts, why don't V10 owners just pull the heads at 125k miles and do a valve job, plugs, exhaust studs and have the motor solid for another 100k (or more) miles?
Is the bottom end weak? Is it real difficult to pull the heads? It seems easier than replacing broken exhaust studs while on the truck and you will have added some value by doing a valve job. Can you pull the heads off if the exhaust pipe is disconected from the manifold?
Just some thoughts on what I might do if my exhaust studs start snapping.
Tell me why it doesn't make sense.
Thanks,
George

 

you bite your tounge mister... the only way you'd be able to remove the left head would be to jack up the motor or pull it or you could just remove the intire ac system. I tell yea if I ever had to do some head work again(hopefully never) I'd just pull the motor, in my mind it would take 25% less time then having to climb up the front and work on your knees while cruched inside the engine bay

 

skoda,

i see on your list that you used ARP head studs.

how did you install them if you pulled the heads off?
it seems there wouldnt be enough room in the engine bay.

i plan on using them in the future instead of the torque to yield head bolts.

thanx

 

Skoda, I guess that's my answer. The heads are a tougher to pull than doing the jobs with the heads on the car.
Thanks,
George

 

I think I'd rather pull the cab.........

 

Maintain the vehicle, keep fresh plugs in and torqued to spec and you should have no problem going 300k miles without touching the internals or doing a timesert repair. The modular motors have probably one of the srongest bottom ends Ford have ever put into a truck due to the skirting on the engine block and cross bolting.

 

I had a plug let go at 100,000 miles. After reading this website it appears some have the problem, and some don't but to me the problem seems to be worse if you are pulling heavy loads. I didn't want the problem to be cronic so I pulled both heads and had inserts put in all 10 holes. $200.00 for the inserts and labor and I don't remember what the parts cost. (new head bolts, and all the gaskets) I think it was $800.00 total. My advantage is my brother in law is a Ford pickup mechanic so labor was free. At 100,000 miles my heads looked close to new, I had the heads vacuum checked for leaks past the valves and they were good. The machine shop couldn't believe this motor had 100K on it but it has seen good quality fuel and oil changes every 3,000 miles as well. The passenger side head was a bit harder but not by much, we just unhooked the y-pipe and kept the manifold on the head to pull both of them. If I was thinking about putting headers on, this would have been the time to do so since you could install them on the head before installing them back on the motor. I think the biggest pain was going through the head bolt torque sequence and thank god my bro in law had the snap on torque angle ( in degree's) torque wrench, this is a must with doing torque to yeild blots.
If I were doing this again, I woldn't do it any other way since piece of mind is nice.

 

Well I put the heads on the dowels then put rtv sealent on one end of the stud and then installed the stud repeated the same process for all of them except the one closest to the fire wall this one had to be half way through the head while installing it, I used hot glue to hold it in place while placing the head on the dowels

most would see head studs some what point less on a N/A motor, it was more personal preferance for me, I've used them before on other motors and just like'm and the idea behind them.

Regards
Skoda

 

thanx,
but what do you mean N/A motor?
never heard that term before.

 

naturaly aspired in other words no turbo charger,super charger or nitrus

 

thanx,

now i feel like a fool.

but thats what i get for overthinking.