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Alright so I finally bought an ex after looking at them for a long time. It's a 2000 Limited V10 4x4. It has some rust and a ton of things I'd like to fix, most of which I'd like to do myself.
Some of the things I'd like to do:
-get a tune up
-address roof rust issue (possibly use white bedliner?)
-clean the undercarriage, apply a brush on rust protector
-salvage steering wheel
-build a strong roof rack (main use will be to hold ladders)
-upgrade the suspension (still researching options, looking towards f250 swap)
-may seafoam the engine
-plasti-dip the car
-replace exhaust
I'll update the thread with pictures and a short review. I looked for seats locally on CL but couldn't find anything that wasn't destroyed.
-I started on the roof. I've never done paint work so I learned on a small spot. Sanded it down with 80 grit, feathered it, primed it and then decided to do another small section right next to it. That worked out great until I pulled up the green tape and some paint peeled up. So, the two small sections turned into a bigger section then I wanted.
Here it is with primer.
With Paint:
I did 3 light coats. I then did the paint. I used Dupli-color's Ford White. Looked fine for the roof (willing to accept a few flaws since nobody will see it) but the next step I went to clear coat it and the aerasol can leaked while I was spraying! I even did a test spray. I immediately wiped it with a paper towel which was probably a bad idea and let's just say it didn't end well. So, it looks like I'm going to be redoing it.
I also removed the roof rack, put the star screws back in, and cleaned the roof rack. I'm going to sand it and paint it. I'm not sure what I'm going to use right now. Any recommendations?
Also, I know these trucks are notorious for rusting on the water channel on each side of the roof. So... I was thinking why not tape it off (right past each ridge) and apply a white bed liner to it?
Anyways, I look forward to talking with everyone and hearing all of your opinions
Last edited by Crunk; Oct 20, 2013 at 11:38 PM.
Reason: Added Pics.
Congratulations on the purchase. Looks like you have a good "project" on your hands there. Whatever (and I mean whatever) it is you want to do to your Ex by the way of modifications or repairs, you are on the right forum!
This place and the people who post here rock g
Oh yeah, forgot something...
Trust me on this one, I've been there and got the T-shirt from "do-it-yourself" painting on a car! COVER ALL THE GLASS! You might think that you are not spraying anywhere NEAR the windows... yep I thought that.... but overspray goes everywhere. You may not notice it until you drive into the sun "just right", but once you notice the tiny dried sparkles all over the place, it will drive you nuts. Getting overspray off of windows once dried is a nightmare.
Oh yeah, forgot something...
Trust me on this one, I've been there and got the T-shirt from "do-it-yourself" painting on a car! COVER ALL THE GLASS! You might think that you are not spraying anywhere NEAR the windows... yep I thought that.... but overspray goes everywhere. You may not notice it until you drive into the sun "just right", but once you notice the tiny dried sparkles all over the place, it will drive you nuts. Getting overspray off of windows once dried is a nightmare.
Anyway, just my .02 on the matter.
James
Thanks for the advice. I'll lay down a roll of masking paper from now on. What are your thoughts on using bedliner on the rain channels?
The rail channels are designed to allow for crossbars to slide back and forth in them. I would not use bedliner here. It is too course and will probably hinder the movement of any crossbars as well as just scrape off with use.
I repainted mine and used a Satin Black with a lacquer clear coat over that. Nice and shiny, hard surface and slick for sliding cross bars back and forth in them.
The rail channels are designed to allow for crossbars to slide back and forth in them. I would not use bedliner here. It is too course and will probably hinder the movement of any crossbars as well as just scrape off with use.
I repainted mine and used a Satin Black with a lacquer clear coat over that. Nice and shiny, hard surface and slick for sliding cross bars back and forth in them.
Good luck!
James
Ah I didn't think of that! I still may do it because I'm going to be building my own roof rack and don't plan on using the crossbars. Speaking of which, I only have one for some reason. The other two are flimsy ones. Oh well. More of a reason to build my own rack
Ah I didn't think of that! I still may do it because I'm going to be building my own roof rack and don't plan on using the crossbars. Speaking of which, I only have one for some reason. The other two are flimsy ones. Oh well. More of a reason to build my own rack
A point for you to think about: Any cross bars you use to mount your roof rack to will need to "slide" into the existing rail system you plan on repainting. Otherwise, you will need to take the rails off and bolt the rack directly to the inserts installed on the sheet metal of the roof. If you are planning on doing this, then why repaint the rails at all?
A point for you to think about: Any cross bars you use to mount your roof rack to will need to "slide" into the existing rail system you plan on repainting. Otherwise, you will need to take the rails off and bolt the rack directly to the inserts installed on the sheet metal of the roof. If you are planning on doing this, then why repaint the rails at all?
Just thinking...
James
Great thoughts. What do you think about this: Use the existing side rails, build a 12 mounting pods that slide in the existing rail and then use the mounting pods to bolt the roof rack on.
I think mounting pods or "risers" are a good idea. Making them so that you can slide them and adjust their position is a good idea also. I don't know that you "need" 12 of them. I think 4 down each side would suffice. Save yourself some fabrication time.
Keep us posted!
James
PS: Only make your risers just high enough to clear your roof-top by about 1.5 to 2 inches... keep it as close to the roof as possible. It is personal opinion of course, but I do not like roof baskets sticking way up on top... adds to the drag factor plus it makes SUV's look like a moose.
I think mounting pods or "risers" are a good idea. Making them so that you can slide them and adjust their position is a good idea also. I don't know that you "need" 12 of them. I think 4 down each side would suffice. Save yourself some fabrication time.
Keep us posted!
James
PS: Only make your risers just high enough to clear your roof-top by about 1.5 to 2 inches... keep it as close to the roof as possible. It is personal opinion of course, but I do not like roof baskets sticking way up on top... adds to the drag factor plus it makes SUV's look like a moose.
Risers is a better word for what I'm thinking of. I'd like to build something similar to yours but a bit longer. I agree 12 would probably be overkill. Thanks for the advice man!
So, I've got the rain channels stripped and have a rust converter sitting on them over night. Tomorrow I will spot prime (where there wasn't rust) and brush bedliner in the rain channels by hand.
I also got the ex inspected today. Looks like I need spark plugs, a pitman arm, serp. belt, and a brake pressure regulator? I'm not sure what a brake pressure regulator is. They also recommended to change the tranny and differential fluid. I was also able to get the maintenance records for the past year. I ordered a set of 10 motorcraft plugs with boots off of ebay for $60. Not too shabby.
So, I've got the rain channels stripped and have a rust converter sitting on them over night. Tomorrow I will spot prime (where there wasn't rust) and brush bedliner in the rain channels by hand.
I also got the ex inspected today. Looks like I need spark plugs, a pitman arm, serp. belt, and a brake pressure regulator? I'm not sure what a brake pressure regulator is. They also recommended to change the tranny and differential fluid. I was also able to get the maintenance records for the past year. I ordered a set of 10 motorcraft plugs with boots off of ebay for $60. Not too shabby.
Sounds as if you are off to a good start on catching up all the maintenance items.
"Regulator"... maybe they meant Brake proportioning valve? Or ABS modulator?
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