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I need to change my drivers locking hub actuator on my 06 as it won't hold vacuum and was wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the pass. side as well?in the repair manual it says don't reuse the spindle,tie rod and upper ball joint nut,should I get news ones too?I'm going to order my parts from Rockauto and they offer two different ones,has anyone had any experience with the Dorman or Standard motor products units?
Go to you tube and put in 06 f150 cv shafts and they show how to change the locking hubs with out tearing the whole front end apart, i'm in need of doing mine as well. Good luck
I went ahead and did both of mine at the same time (I'm learning within this link). I still had to replace my solenoid after the replacement[s]. All is well 45K later.
Thanks for the link,what brand of actuators did you end up using?I'm going to do both sides as well,knowing my luck the other side would crap out in the middle of winter.I'm also going to replace the vacuum lines as well since my pass. side is leaking.
That's why I'm biting the bullet and replacing the actuator along with the cv shafts due to my driver side boot is split. I am going to go to amazon and get the parts they say they are o e m quality. Did your vacuum actuator go out too mine did and caused all my trouble.
Thanks for the link,what brand of actuators did you end up using?I'm going to do both sides as well,knowing my luck the other side would crap out in the middle of winter.I'm also going to replace the vacuum lines as well since my pass. side is leaking.
Terry
When I did mine they were still a "Ford only" part, and I got them online for $70-ish apiece. They seem to have gone up some in price in 4 years.
I think my vacuum actuator is working but I'll know soon enough when i get things changed.I decided to replace the driver side yesterday and learned a few things.First you can change the actuator if you remove the lower bolt from your strut and move it out of the way,it gives you enough room to get the axle out.Second if you go this route an you have a skid plate on your truck it has to be dropped or there is not enough room to slid out the shaft.I did it in a little over an hour learning as I went.I was going to do the pass. side but I was running out of daylight so today I'll do the other side.
Well I've got both actuators changed and fixed my vacuum leak but still no 4x4.is there a way to test the IWE solenoid?I had the engine running for a bit and when I removed the vacuum line from it I could hear the vacuum escaping from it.so I got out my test light and had my daughter turn the 4x4 switch,one side of the connector had power all the time and the other side didn't.I don't know how the switch works but I thought that turning the switch would kill the power to it and let vacuum through the system.next I re connected the bottom vacuum line and hooked up my vacuum gauge to the top outlet and nothing no vacuum at all.so I'm off to Ford tomorrow and get a new switch,hopefully that will fix my problem.I fairly certain my 4x4 motor is working cause when I turn the switch I can hear it clicking like it's engaging/disengaging.anyone else having any ideas?
Ok,just figured I'd take off the 4x4 motor and confirm it's working and it is.so I fired up the truck and turn the switch,the 4x4 briefly lights up but will not stay lit.so I put it in neutral and switch to 4x4 low and it switches into it no problem and it lights up on my dash.so my question is....is it the IWE solenoid or something else?
...for some reason I thought you had already replaced the solenoid. Some places are still selling off their stock of "old style" solenoids...The new ones have a cover over the top area. Odd thing is the new/better ones are cheaper than the old/open-top ones.
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