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Just be aware that the sealed box is going to be the best choice for a small subwoofer enclosure, they are not very efficient. In other words it will take more power to get the same music volume that a larger vented box would give.
Like most things, there are trade-offs on this thing. I don't know why you do not want to put anything behind the seat. More than likely you have storage back there like most people do, but it's all in what your priorities are. You could put a truck storage box in the bed to put your stuff in.
Just be aware that the sealed box is going to be the best choice for a small subwoofer enclosure, they are not very efficient. In other words it will take more power to get the same music volume that a larger vented box would give.
Like most things, there are trade-offs on this thing. I don't know why you do not want to put anything behind the seat. More than likely you have storage back there like most people do, but it's all in what your priorities are. You could put a truck storage box in the bed to put your stuff in.
I don't know if a 12 will fit back there. My 10's weren't that deep and I still lost one notch on the seat. Some of the 12's I've seen were so deep that there's no way they'd fit. It would be custom and it sounds like the OP is light on woodworking skills.
Yes you can build boxes onto the outside of the cab, that's very common here in Aus for our smaller utes, but what I'm referring to is Having the sub inside the cab firing through the membrane out the vent in the cab wall/floor. The vent is only 3 inches diameter or so.
Basically it's like an infinite baffle or "free air" sub but with the control and power handling of a box. If you make you own membranes you can tune them to suit. Check this link, it's not a bad explanation GlassWolf's Pages
If you have bucket seats and go to a 2 seat only cab, then you can build a great centre console sub box, fire it downwards in a slot loaded arrangement to the rear. The amps can be built in to the console as well - happy days.
I think the harder thing is setting up a decent front stage in these cabs.
Agree on the front stage issue. I'm hoping to accomplish that via a dual-voice coil speaker in the middle hole and running it off of the front channel. The door speakers will run off of the rear channels. And the sub will be a self-powered 8", hopefully under the seat.
Agree on the front stage issue. I'm hoping to accomplish that via a dual-voice coil speaker in the middle hole and running it off of the front channel. The door speakers will run off of the rear channels. And the sub will be a self-powered 8", hopefully under the seat.
Can you get a dual coil coaxial?
On a mates old valiant ute we built an MDF sealed box that stepped down and across under the centre dash grille, filled it with Dacron wadding, popped 2 high quality 4 inch coaxials in there, covered them with black grille cloth. pointed the tweeters out to the sides to try and widen the stage.
You would never pick they were there and they worked quite well.
What's wrong with using the door speakers for the front left and right? I believe you would get better separation rather than trying to use the center type speaker. That will basically turn it into a mono radio.
Dave - What we are talking about is the "sound stage", the feeling you get that the performers are in front of you. Speakers in the door work well for 60's recordings that were seriously stereophonic, meaning the right and left channels had little common material. But even with that material there is no center stage - it is all beside you.
By using the dual-voice coil speaker in the center as well as the door speakers you put the performer(s) up on the stage. The center speaker fills the stage in since it mainly gives common signals - the coil can't move very well if only one winding is pulling it. So I'll run the front channels to that and the rear channels to the door speakers and be able to fine tune the "stage" by using the fader.
Roof speakers are great, and then turn it towards to door speakers for harder hits and if you have a good head unit you have a sub wire for subs.
I disagree. Very few venues have the sound coming at you from above. All most all have it coming at you from the front with reflections from the rear and sometimes from the sides. Digital signal processors, like the Eclipse unit I had in my Miata, can replicate those reflections from the rear quite accurately, but none that I'm aware of provide signals for speakers above you.
Well it sounds great, is sharp when it needs to be, and deep when it isn't, I'm in the process of a new head unit and a small sub to have heavier hits.
ok so i have decided to go with shallow mounts. i was thinking of going with the punch shallow mounts unless someone can recommend something better than the punch style shallows. open to suggestions and opinions. tell me what you all think. reminder i have a viper D600.1 amp. the amp handles 1ohm stable at 600 watts rms and peaks 1200 watts.
also i have my seat all the way back and i do not want to move it forward anymore. i hope i can find something that will not hender the seat adjustment. considering im 6' and 290 lbs. big guy here and needs his leg room
The Punch shallow mount subs at Crutchfield don't have the best customer ratings. Some are rated well and some aren't rated well at all. And I found similar things at Amazon. But the Kicker's do seem to have consistently good ratings.